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You can use 0W20 but keep in mind as these vehicles get older they like to chew oil. That's why I'd only do a heavy 30 or normal 40.
What does this mean? How does age make it 'chew oil'?
5w20 and 0w20 have been back spec'd for these engines - use them with no fear, unless you're burning oil, in which case you might want a heavier weight.
What does this mean? How does age make it 'chew oil'?
5w20 and 0w20 have been back spec'd for these engines - use them with no fear, unless you're burning oil, in which case you might want a heavier weight.
When they get older, like when you start approaching or going over the 100K mark, the cylinder walls aren't going to look like when they were brand new...same goes for piston rings and the rings can slowly over time get 'chopped up'. It's not a very destructive process, but if you start to get pits in the walls and/or get ring erosion you'll notice oil consumption. Air filters are good, but they don't block out everything. He's free to use 0W20, but at that grade, the 20 is more likely to seep into the combustion than a 30 or 40. That's for him to decide and see. A lot of factors decide this particularly how the vehicle has been driven since new.
The 3MZFE engine in the RX330 is much better than the 1MZFE in the oil passage department so it will handle the 20 to 40 much better than my own RX300.
Again, he can run a 20, but he's going to have to watch to see if there's consumption issues or not. Moreover, oil degrades or shears over use.
Newer modern oil are much much less prone to shearing than oil from the past. I don't think any modern 5w30 will shear much and a 5w20 even less.
Did the 300 have smaller oil passages, or was it a heat problem that led to the sludge problems? If it's smaller oil passages, I would think that a lighter weight oil would actually flow better.
The range of numbers are representative of flow at temperature.
In old days when the range was not there, typically the higher weight was thicker at room temperature. So in comparison it was reasonable to say thinner oil vs thicker oil in place of W#.
With modern oil for engines, additives are added to stabilize or make the flow rate less dependent on temperature hence we get a range of oil weight like 5W30 etc.
The leap lot of folks are making here is that 5w30 vs 10w30, the 5w30 will be thinner. It may be correct or it may not be correct. The specification only means that in colder climate, the 5W30 will maintain the required flow rate [for temperatures that require "5" weight, 5W30 can work while 10W30 may not].
On a personal note, I prefer the range to be narrow. I suggest opening up the user manual and select the right oil, based on the geographical area you drive your vehicle in. 0W30 practically covers all of the continental USA ... almost like group "O" blood.