LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Major Electrical PROBLEM

Old 02-04-15, 08:04 PM
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Mattreed7
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Exclamation Major Electrical PROBLEM

First post so I hope you guys can help me. I have a 92 LS400. New battery but none of the cars electricals work. No lights, no windows, no dash lights and no click when I try and start. It has a brand new battery so that's not the problem. The AAA guy said its the starter but would that cause all the other electricals to fail? Our mechanic said the starter is a daunting task to get to in this model. Is that true? $1900? money I do not have. All response is appreciated.
Old 02-05-15, 03:37 AM
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dicer
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First thing to check is for good battery connections and good ground. Next fusible links, fuses too. All wires in good shape and connected etc.

$1900. some places what that.

Last edited by dicer; 02-05-15 at 03:49 AM.
Old 02-05-15, 03:44 AM
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ForzaF
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I wonder if they hooked up your battery wrong the first time around and blew the fuses . Or possibly did you get a jump start if you had a dying battery and also crossed the cables incorrectly and blew the fuses. Check those and go from there . Starter has nothing to do with having at least your accessories on like radio and interior lights on.
Old 02-05-15, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ISF2NV
I wonder if they hooked up your battery wrong the first time around and blew the fuses . Or possibly did you get a jump start if you had a dying battery and also crossed the cables incorrectly and blew the fuses. Check those and go from there . Starter has nothing to do with having at least your accessories on like radio and interior lights on.
Is there a way to check if a fuse is blown by looking at it? Is there like a master fuse? I'm an absolute newbie. Thanks in advance.
Old 02-05-15, 12:12 PM
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Yes you can use a flash light and look at them and tell if its blown. But if its a broke connection or corroded you can't tell by looking. The fuse box has the 2 big slotted screws and is behind the battery. Just loosen the screws and lift it up and off. Look under and inside the cover and it tells you what does what.
Old 02-05-15, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ISF2NV
I wonder if they hooked up your battery wrong the first time around and blew the fuses . Or possibly did you get a jump start if you had a dying battery and also crossed the cables incorrectly and blew the fuses. Check those and go from there . Starter has nothing to do with having at least your accessories on like radio and interior lights on.
This sounds right to me.

Yes, based on your description of symptoms, I would not believe it's a starter problem. Kind of ridiculous for the AAA to come up with that, unless there's more to the story.

So I'd forget you ever heard that about the starter and solve the problem by checking the main fuses, etc.
Old 02-05-15, 12:39 PM
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Mattreed7
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Originally Posted by oldskewel
This sounds right to me.

Yes, based on your description of symptoms, I would not believe it's a starter problem. Kind of ridiculous for the AAA to come up with that, unless there's more to the story.

So I'd forget you ever heard that about the starter and solve the problem by checking the main fuses, etc.
Which fuse should I start with? My car wont crank and nothing electrical works.
Just noticed my positive end on tthe battery is really corroded, could that be a factor?
Old 02-05-15, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattreed7
Which fuse should I start with? My car wont crank and nothing electrical works.
Just noticed my positive end on tthe battery is really corroded, could that be a factor?
Corroded battery terminal is definitely a major concern. If you've got no real tools or equipment for testing, one thing you could do it put the key in, turn to the on position, turn the headlights on, and start wiggling things with the hopes that you get an intermittent connection and the lights will turn on momentarily at least. That would help you pinpoint the loose connection, if there is one.

But if it's a fuse (or "fusible link" for the big ones), this might help your search:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...wont-work.html

If you've got a voltmeter, you could start tracing the system, starting at the battery post, then the battery cable terminal, etc. until you can't find 12 Volts.

Good luck.
Old 02-05-15, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel
Corroded battery terminal is definitely a major concern. If you've got no real tools or equipment for testing, one thing you could do it put the key in, turn to the on position, turn the headlights on, and start wiggling things with the hopes that you get an intermittent connection and the lights will turn on momentarily at least. That would help you pinpoint the loose connection, if there is one.

But if it's a fuse (or "fusible link" for the big ones), this might help your search:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...wont-work.html

If you've got a voltmeter, you could start tracing the system, starting at the battery post, then the battery cable terminal, etc. until you can't find 12 Volts.

Good luck.
So I tried to wiggle the terminals with the key on but it wouldn't budge what so ever. And on that voltineter thing I was thinking of taking the battery to autozone to get a test but oh my lord I can't loosen the terminals for the life of me! And help here?
Old 02-05-15, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattreed7
So I tried to wiggle the terminals with the key on but it wouldn't budge what so ever. And on that voltineter thing I was thinking of taking the battery to autozone to get a test but oh my lord I can't loosen the terminals for the life of me! And help here?
Your problem is simple enough that you don't need to take the battery somewhere to get it tested. If you're as stuck as it sounds like you are, I'd get a ride to somewhere and buy a voltmeter and continuity tester, then get back to the car and start tracing the 12V that should be there.

I know it seems like you're in a huge problem, but I really expect that it will end up being one simple connection or part that is causing this. So it will be a minor repair.

Where in CA are you?
Old 02-05-15, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel
Your problem is simple enough that you don't need to take the battery somewhere to get it tested. If you're as stuck as it sounds like you are, I'd get a ride to somewhere and buy a voltmeter and continuity tester, then get back to the car and start tracing the 12V that should be there.

I know it seems like you're in a huge problem, but I really expect that it will end up being one simple connection or part that is causing this. So it will be a minor repair.

Where in CA are you?
Eh I have no idea what to do with a voltometer. I'm in Riverside
Old 02-05-15, 03:58 PM
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could your ignition switch be faulty
Old 02-05-15, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattreed7
Eh I have no idea what to do with a voltometer. I'm in Riverside
I would also start where OldSkewel suggests. If you have no idea what to do with a voltmeter, then you either learn or you pay someone to check it for you. It is much cheaper to learn and do it yourself. It is not that hard and you might have 'fun' learning.

That said, I do also believe that this is a rather simple issue. Once you find the fuse, or fusible link, or cable connection that is bad, the fix will be easy. The issue is tracing it out. You have to be methodical in the search or you will pass right over it. Are you game for learning a little basic electricity or not your thing?
Old 02-06-15, 02:37 AM
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It sounds like its just the messed up battery terminals. You may end up buying a new battery and cutting the clamps off and putting new ones on. If its as corroded as bad as you say, you may have found the problem.
Old 02-06-15, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by randal
I would also start where OldSkewel suggests. If you have no idea what to do with a voltmeter, then you either learn or you pay someone to check it for you. It is much cheaper to learn and do it yourself. It is not that hard and you might have 'fun' learning.

That said, I do also believe that this is a rather simple issue. Once you find the fuse, or fusible link, or cable connection that is bad, the fix will be easy. The issue is tracing it out. You have to be methodical in the search or you will pass right over it. Are you game for learning a little basic electricity or not your thing?
Knowledge is power! But seriously, if it makes this job easier and cheaper in down to learn. Also I'm going to change the terminals first. Are there any specifications I need to know when replacing or is it a one size fits all situation?

Last edited by Mattreed7; 02-06-15 at 10:05 AM.

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