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The Master UPPER control arm thread

Old Dec 7, 2013 | 11:39 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JM51526
Finn - I've the factory manual for the 1990 LS, I don't believe anything changed for 1991. I can look up the factory specs for you, but they're different for air suspension versus standard suspension. Which is yours?
Thanks for the gesture, mate. If it's not too much trouble mine is a 1991 with standard suspension.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #32  
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On my 95's drivers side I have a "ultra-8" upper control arm from napa auto parts. Been on there about a year and was a last minute decision. It was the only localy stocked one, i was taking the car out of town a few days later and needed to swap it out before i left. The original had ALOT of play in it and was clunking all over when i tugged on It.

So far no problems, and it was a bit heavier gauge steel than the stock ones were. Only fitment problem was the little clip that holds the abs wire was a TIGHT fit, but it still bolted right up.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #33  
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Finn - from the 1990 LS factory service manual, for cars without air suspension:

Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)

Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)

Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less

Hope that helps!

Last edited by JM51526; Dec 7, 2013 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 07:42 PM
  #34  
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I have one Doorman and one Beck/Arnley both for almost 2years and 30k miles. The doorman was very nice looking and was an exact replica of the OEM arm I removed and the ball joint was identical. It didnt come with a flared castle nut like the stock arm so I had to use a washer to engage the castle nut with the cotter pin. The beck looked less desireable from the start with small rust spots and was similar looking to the moog that has been pictured but the ball joint is incorrect because it has not stop on the taper. The taper enlarges untill it meets the main shaft. The beck was slightly more difficult to install and I would not recomend it. My OEM ball joints were beyond shot at 120k, I could move the top of the wheel almost 1/4" in and out with the wheels on the ground. With the price of OEM I could buy the doorman every 50k and still be ahead of the game over the OEM.
(My car is lowered on Megan's and I work the cars suspension hard regularly)
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:37 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JM51526
Finn - from the 1990 LS factory service manual, for cars without air suspension:

Front
Camber 0 degrees 05' (+ or - 30')
Caster 9 degrees 15' (+ or - 30')
Wheel angle (inside wheel) 39 degrees 20' (+1 or -2 degrees)
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)

Rear
Camber 0 degrees (+ or - 30')
Toe-in 2mm (+ or - 1mm)

Wheel runout, vertical and horizontal 0.3mm or less
Rire runout (vertical) 1.4mm or less

Hope that helps!
Thanks, mate! Much appreciate for your help.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 08:12 AM
  #36  
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So what's the difference in 95+ UCA than 90-94?
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 02:12 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Boxcuta
So what's the difference in 95+ UCA than 90-94?
well the entire suspension is set up differently, whole different chassis, etc....
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 02:20 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
well the entire suspension is set up differently, whole different chassis, etc....
Thanks because I'm trying to figure out where to get arms for my 92 LS400 but looks like I might have to fabb them for air?
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 08:23 AM
  #39  
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Raybestos Pro made in Taiwan. 100 miles on them no complaints.
Attached Thumbnails The Master UPPER control arm thread-1506893_10100103656909524_1189854247_n.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-1623436_10100103656635074_2046882388_n.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-1725088_10100103656764814_1120422529_n.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-1912312_10100103656694954_1649798213_n.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-10001558_10100103656864614_1125806509_n.jpg  

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 11:35 AM
  #40  
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My renewed upper control arms. Solid rubber bush for OE GL bearings.
Attached Thumbnails The Master UPPER control arm thread-dsc_0047-medium-.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-dsc_0048-medium-.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-dsc_0049-medium-.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-dsc_0050-medium-.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-dsc_0051-medium-.jpg  

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 05:05 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dengman
Raybestos Pro made in Taiwan. 100 miles on them no complaints.
Look almost identical to the MOOG arms I posted....

Probably both from the same factory.

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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Odzsee
My renewed upper control arms. Solid rubber bush for OE GL bearings.
Did you have the bushings and ball joint replaced these arms look like they have a few miles on them.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:53 PM
  #43  
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looks like just the bushings.. you cannot replace the ball joints on these arms.
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Old Mar 6, 2014 | 10:55 PM
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I haven't done mine yet waiting until the shocks and springs are replaced first. 125k mls currently on the original suspenion.
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Old Mar 7, 2014 | 03:37 AM
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The bushings and ball joints are restored.A total renovation of arm 140$/control arm.So improving.
Attached Thumbnails The Master UPPER control arm thread-50424_k1.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-50423_k2.jpg   The Master UPPER control arm thread-008.jpg  

Last edited by Odzsee; Mar 7, 2014 at 04:00 AM.
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