Which ball joints did you use, if I may ask?

 

Odzsee,
This is interesting indeed. If you would, please explain in more detail how the ball joint is overhauled.
Thank you.

 

I was actually looking into this. I knew it was possible but would be hard to find since im pretty sure some old timer would be the one that would know how in the states and does not use the internet for business which in turns will not show up on search engines.

 

But those last pictures are not of the UCA...?

 

Okay, first look at the situation in Eastern Europe. In this area $ 140 is a lot of money. So there is a need for low-cost but reliable alternatives. For this reason, the industry has been built on the bushing and ball joint reconditioning.

To renovate the bushing is very simple, the new rubber is pressed to the old’s place. Here's a Hungarian online newspaper article in this topic. Google translate helps for You to read it.
http://totalcar.hu/magazin/hifituning/szilent/

Ball joint:
The ball is pressed by the pressmachine to the nest. The depth controls the tension. The part is closed with a cap, and the edges are bended back. The disassemble is the same process in reversed order.
Hungarian online newspaper:
http://www.autonavigator.hu/tippek_t...j-javitas-6151

The Hungarian Toyota 4x4 club use only this thing, because it is a very durable solutions. I use the renovated upper control arm since 1.5 years and I am very satisfied. The ball joint is still very hard.

My English is quite poor, I'm sorry if you do not understand everything.
Please feel free to ask me, and I try to answer for everything.

 

Well, your English is much better than my magyar .
I am goin to have to use a translator for sure. Looks interesting. I like the Hungarian spirirt of DIY.
An innovative way to become less dependent on high priced replacement parts.


Hmmm. The translation is not the best. Here is a section from the link translated by google:

In such cases, the replacement of the solution? No, the ball advanced methods and machines can be disassembled , then reassembled these , and it's still a viable option if you already poor quality component produces the same phenomenon - had been The kind example that the newly installed ball head certainly " hung" on the chassis, and the sphere " húzósabbra " had to be stopped - this can be achieved presses , and the deeper you are in the nest of the ball , the more closely . This catchy proofing otherwise most often deployed individually built rally cars , racing cars since the rough pace , carried at high speed , with the chassis, all parts are included and are subject to increased loads.
Instead you should think about buying a new component of the renovation, because the repair costs halved in most cases, some models are even greater degree of sparing available

photo caption:
Control arm repair the nest press machine, push the ball, the depth controls the tension, and a cap, and this flaring of sealing the parts - disassembly opposite takes place in the process of milling machine, remove the cap and then pressed into the worn or damaged buttons

 

Unfortunately, the translation is not the best, because the Hungarian language is quite difficult.
My girlfriend speaks good English, she helps me sometimes.

Understandable to improve the ball joint?

 

The part above seems the most important option to me for choosing these Moogs. For those of us who have a static setup every fraction of an inch of clearance that we get from the strut tower the better. When I originally lowered my 98 on coils I had a 16" wheel setup and though driving over bumps was challenging I hardly ever bottomed out even with car really low.

Now that I changed to 18" rims with a lower sidewall not only did my car drop about another 1/2" but I am slamming my strut tower on almost every bump now. Damper settings do not seem to be helping so far so I'm thinking of other options at this point (other than raising the car - who wants to do that!) to smooth out the ride.

I have seen others on the forum who have gone all out and made cut-outs in the tower to make room for the UCAs but I'm nowhere near trying to lay frame like guys with bags so I guess I will give these Moogs a try, esp. if I can gain that 1/2" back based on their shorter profile.

 

Did the swap last weekend and the Moogs made a world of difference for my setup! No more UCA slamming on every street crevice like before. Thanks for the tip, Shmee.

 

Well my Moog right side upper control arm only lasted one year and 10k miles and my car is all stock (not lowered) let's see how good their warranty is

 

I would like to know also.

 

Got new arm and installed it has a 36 month warranty

 

Why did it only lasts that long? Did you hit something? was it a failure? Was it an install error? what was the symptom of failure or needing replacement again?p

 

Just an update. I have a 90'. I bought a beck/arnley UCA about 3 years and ~30k miles ago and the ball joint is bad. The part looked crappy when I put it on. The doorman UCA on the other side is still looking good with about the same mileage/age. Ordered a new doorman to replace the B/A and several small parts stores suggested that doorman was the manafacturer of the Lexus part. This is complete heresay but if someone who knows better could confirm or deny it would be cool.

 

Made in china. Loose ball joint, rattling over bumps.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...g-with-rk.html