deanshark

That's the problem with buying a used AFM, they're so sensitive and people clean them before selling it so it's hard to find a good one. But the price of a new one is outrageous.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

really? The mk3 supra guys seem to have no trouble finding 1LS AFMs lol. can get them for <$50-60 on most mk3-centric forums (ie-supramania) as they're a popular upgrade when doing basic turbo upgrades (for fuel metering).

deanshark

Yea, they scoop up all the good ones from the junkyards as soon as they come in, that's why we cant find any.

LScowboyLS

I think you are on to something here! - hard to find one that has not been improperly cleaned!

you really need a friend who has a year of car compatible with yours that runs great, and then check the junkyard AFM in his car to see if it's OK

python

iTrader: (4)

so as ive been reading the failing ecu all over this forum one thing I have noticed is the people who live in climates with high humidity are in fact more prone to this happening. I live in California and have many ls 400's come into where I work and the shops all around and none have had the ecu failing except 1...a 95. most of the ones ive seen have had WELL over 200,000 miles on them. so cowboy saying someone who lives in florida has a higher risk is true...just like u who live in florida have different brake fluid laws I believe because of the moisture...btw pure drifter..the ATE super blue brake fluid is out lawed in the usa

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that ban just started because it took the DOT like 15 years to realize that super blue is, well, Blue.

ATE Type 200 is the same fluid without the blue dye.

Gene01

Why would the DOT care what color the brake fluid is?

SC93

=======================================================

i think it is a combination of both humidity and temperature with temp being the most influential
in rate of deterioration. in chemical engineering we used an adage that for every 10 degree
increase in temperature, a given reaction rate would double so you could just imagine the rate
of electrolyte breakdown between a car residing in say Canada vs Florida.

drone6

Got another used AFM sensor from ebay, just the sensor. Installed it, removed the battery cable for a few minutes and then checked for codes. No codes as expected, turned the car on - runs better a few hick ups still. Took it for a run, the hesitation disappeared a few minutes later but the engine is rough when starting from a stop, kept driving - about 1 mile - got to a hill, wouldn't go above 35 - stomped on gas, barely moving past 36mph.

Then the trac off and engine light come on - disappear after about 10 seconds or so. #$%#$%#$, drive back home. Lights come on and off as I drive home. Park the car, check for codes again - 31 engine code - Air Flow Meter Signal.

I want to puke. The previous issue of the rpm jumping and hesitation are gone, but can't really go above 35, engine sounds rough and of course the 31 engine code. It also feels like there is a leak between the engine and the exhaust, right under where the pedals are.

Is it possible the cable going to the MAF/AFM is bad? How would I check this?

LScowboyLS

90-94 AFM's from ebay should be checked on a buddy's 90-94 LS that is running right, because it was all too common for people to clean them with solvent, which ruined them, and so getting a bad one from ebay is common, and ebay sellers/junkyards love to say "tested good" on everything when they are not tested thoroughly, if at all.

Hang in there and soon you will have this issue chased down and the LS will be purring like a kitten!

Often times the highest point of frustration factor is right before you have the breakthrough!

drone6

Well, with the car now sitting around for over 3 months, finally paid $400 bucks for a reman AFM from Advanced auto parts - installed it - and guess what - same exact issue.

So I've now tried five different AFMs and none are a go - returned the part as I no longer think it is the issue. May have been the original sensor I had in there, but one of these others should be working. So started to tear out all the covers so I can inspect the engine and try various things I've been reading on.

Noticed this little gem when I removed the driver side Coil cover - at least that is what I think it is. I can't tell if it's from the wire or from the base the wire plugs into. What part would this be and where to get or have it stop the arching?

And of course all the leaking oil everywhere, I'm assuming i need to put in a new gasket in?

LScowboyLS

yes, that definitely looks likes a major issue!

from what I can discern from your photos, it looks like your main coil wire is arcing

I would order a set of genuine NGK or Denso plug wires off amazon (which includes new coil wires) and install them as your plug/coil wires appear to be the originals on the car, making them like 20 years old!

if you are in a hurry, you can get a set locally for considerably more money, but don't deviate from those two OEM brands!

bdazzler

Drone: I'm getting the exact two same codes. Had an extra MAF that I bought on eBay so changed that. I kind of doubt that's the issue, surely not, er hopefully not.

What was your problem? I looked at the fotos but don't see the issue. I changed my spark plug wires (NGK tailored ones so I don't see how that could be the issue). Changed the coil packs about six months ago as well but still have one of the old ones. Think I'll change the driver's side and see if that does anything...