difficulty replacing lower oil pan 97'
#1
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difficulty replacing lower oil pan 97'
I'm not gonna lie I messed up nd stripped inside of the drain plug on the pan. And its leaking around the gasket as well. I figure ill jus replace it, anyone done this before and do I need to remove any other parts to get it off.
#3
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Just to note for others, using a fresh fiber washer/gasket does wonders. The natural tendency is to torque it a bit more when we see a drop forming and next thing ya know.... I did it long time ago and like PD said, the drain bolt strips first but not always. Hopefully the odds are the bolt.
#5
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
As a general rule if there is nothing preventing you from dropping the pan, then yes, you just unbolt it and remove.
If you can, leave the car in the air overnight with the oil pan off and a drain pan under the block.
This is a good idea if you are using silicone rather than a gasket/seal as even a little drop of oil can cause sealing issues, and this will allow any oil hanging on the inside walls of the block to drain away and not contaminate your sealing surface.
Be sure to clean away any and all old gasket from the sealing surface with a razor blade, as well as any that may be stuck to the inside of the block, then spray the surface with a no-residue brake-cleaner and wipe dry.
if you are using silicone, it's a good practice to run a bead around each bolt hole in the pan with a line between each circle like so:
---O-----O-----O------O------O--
Also, be sure to insert all the bolts by hand at least a few threads before you start by snugging them up in a cross-pattern, before a final toque in the same pattern. I have to stress this one as i have seen guys strip out the threads on the block by getting greedy or tightening the bolts down before they insert the next bolt.
Ideally, you want to let the silicone cure for at least a few hours before filling the engine with oil and starting.
If you can, leave the car in the air overnight with the oil pan off and a drain pan under the block.
This is a good idea if you are using silicone rather than a gasket/seal as even a little drop of oil can cause sealing issues, and this will allow any oil hanging on the inside walls of the block to drain away and not contaminate your sealing surface.
Be sure to clean away any and all old gasket from the sealing surface with a razor blade, as well as any that may be stuck to the inside of the block, then spray the surface with a no-residue brake-cleaner and wipe dry.
if you are using silicone, it's a good practice to run a bead around each bolt hole in the pan with a line between each circle like so:
---O-----O-----O------O------O--
Also, be sure to insert all the bolts by hand at least a few threads before you start by snugging them up in a cross-pattern, before a final toque in the same pattern. I have to stress this one as i have seen guys strip out the threads on the block by getting greedy or tightening the bolts down before they insert the next bolt.
Ideally, you want to let the silicone cure for at least a few hours before filling the engine with oil and starting.
#7
Lexus Champion
Just to note for others, using a fresh fiber washer/gasket does wonders.
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