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Driver window problem

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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 09:17 PM
  #1  
renato902's Avatar
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Default Driver window problem *UPDATE*

Hey guys,

I've had my Lexus for about 3 months. I bought it with a few problems, but they're worth fixing. There's some rust on the rear quarter panel and it needs an oxygen sensor. It also had a problem with the driver side window. I took my driver door apart and check to see if I can get a better understanding of the problem. It is a very hard problem to explain but bear with me. To my surprise, I found the window's plastic railing to be cracked. This paralyzed my window. It can still go up and down but not at the command of the motor. The motor will lower and raise the arm attached to it, but the window doesn't follow. When I bring the motor down, I can manually push the window down to follow it and when I want to bring it back up, I pull it up manually and make the motor do the job of fixing the window in the fully closed position. I tried to make a diagram (bear with me) to maybe help you guys understand a bit better.



My local Lexus dealer is asking 480$ CAD for a new window since you cannot simply get the plastic railing piece. It's very unfortunate. I've looked on the web and all I could find were windows for UCF10's, which are completely different. Can any of you guys help me out? Any suggestions are appreciated

P.S.: I have already tried using epoxy to glue the broken railing back together and it worked but only for a few days and then broke again

Any help is appreciated guys.

Thanks


*UPDATE* I've fixed the window! I used the product that I posted in my last reply. It seems to have a much better hold than epoxy. The guys from Acklands-Grainger (canadian industrial supplies store) told me that if that wouldn't fix it, nothing would. It seems to be working for now. I hope it holds because if it finally does work, I'll have +500$ for other repairs or mods

Last edited by renato902; Aug 2, 2009 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 01:19 AM
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yea once that rail breaks you have to replace the whole window. i have not seen just the rail sold by itself. it happen to me with my 95 LS400 back in 2006. i think the window cost me 500 bucks from the dealer fun stuff : /. i have not seen a bypass for it. so your sorta stuck with just buying a new window
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 09:41 AM
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That sucks. I recently failed inspection for what appears to be the same problem.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 03:13 PM
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Wow, that's not fun. It really sucks that they're no way to get around it. I have a few ideas in my head. I'll try and fix it again but if it breaks, I'll have to go for a new window
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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yup i feel you dude. i remember that summer i couldnt drive the car for a few days, since i was busy with work. but im sure if your mechanically inclined you can bang out the window job in a day. make sure you super lube up the rails after puttin in the new window or its gona squeel
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by PK_Celsior
yup i feel you dude. i remember that summer i couldnt drive the car for a few days, since i was busy with work. but im sure if your mechanically inclined you can bang out the window job in a day. make sure you super lube up the rails after puttin in the new window or its gona squeel
Thanks bro. I'm sure I can pull something off with this old window (at least temporarily) until I get the funds for the new one.
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Old Jul 31, 2009 | 04:04 PM
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*UPDATE*: I went out to a store today with my father. We picked up some of this:



We applied it to the broken rail and rolled the window to the fully up position so the urethane can set. If this works, that's +500$ for me
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