Battery is always getting dead...
#1
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Battery is always getting dead...
i been having this issue for awhile now. I get a dead battery after awhile of not driving the vehicle for a couple days. Now its getting worse, it wont start after a couple of hours after a jump or new charged battery.
it cranks up when its jumped or has charged battery. is this a major issue?
it cranks up when its jumped or has charged battery. is this a major issue?
#2
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hmm
I have a similar problem, but not quite that bad. While my car is "off" I can hear some mechanical clicking and possible motor noise coming from the back end. It's very weird, never really looked into it.
However, I know that my battery dies 100% within 2 weeks now. In cold weather, it lasts about 3 days before going 100% dead. That is with a new fully charged battery too.
Perhaps you've heard the same noises? Maybe it's some faulty trunk wiring? /shrug
However, I know that my battery dies 100% within 2 weeks now. In cold weather, it lasts about 3 days before going 100% dead. That is with a new fully charged battery too.
Perhaps you've heard the same noises? Maybe it's some faulty trunk wiring? /shrug
#3
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I have a similar problem, but not quite that bad. While my car is "off" I can hear some mechanical clicking and possible motor noise coming from the back end. It's very weird, never really looked into it.
However, I know that my battery dies 100% within 2 weeks now. In cold weather, it lasts about 3 days before going 100% dead. That is with a new fully charged battery too.
Perhaps you've heard the same noises? Maybe it's some faulty trunk wiring? /shrug
However, I know that my battery dies 100% within 2 weeks now. In cold weather, it lasts about 3 days before going 100% dead. That is with a new fully charged battery too.
Perhaps you've heard the same noises? Maybe it's some faulty trunk wiring? /shrug
#4
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err.. i'm no mechanic, but did you get your alternator tested to make sure it's performing right? if the alternator is dead that would explain why your battery keeps dying
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your lacking alot of info that could correctly diagnose this problem...
do you only take short trips???
how old is your battery????
how are you charging your battery everytime???
flooded ( water type) or gel cell ( optima type) battery??? if its flooded does it have water in each cell???
when charging your battery how many amps do you charge at??? if you arent the one charging it, can remove it from the car and take it to a local auto parts store for battery test??? (your best cheapest bet if you dont have a dvom)
* to make short work of this if you know someone that may have a DVOM ( digital volt/ohm meter) you can figure this from a bad battery, bad alternator and or parasitic draw.
*with a dvom and the car running check voltage at the battery across the + and - terminals. it should be anywhere from 13-14v when the engine is on. and above 12v when engine is off. this will determine a dead alterntor. if its below 13v and steadily dropping your alternator isnt charging. judging by the current information given i doubt its your alternator unless each trip after a jump or charge is very short.
*to determine if you have parasitic draw... remove the negative battery cable. get a dvom and set it to amperage setting, put one lead of the dvom to the negative post and one to a very good ground. watch the parasitic draw ( the amps being pulled when the car is off ). it should only draw miliamps . sorry i dont have the specs for it... check a fsm
* both those are very basic checks and if they are within spec you pretty much determined it is now a battery. remember there are very many things that can go wrong with a battery regardless of age. my honest opinion from the information given i want to say battery w/ a possible bad cell. like i said more info please. and good luck! hope i helped you and everyone one else with similar problems
do you only take short trips???
how old is your battery????
how are you charging your battery everytime???
flooded ( water type) or gel cell ( optima type) battery??? if its flooded does it have water in each cell???
when charging your battery how many amps do you charge at??? if you arent the one charging it, can remove it from the car and take it to a local auto parts store for battery test??? (your best cheapest bet if you dont have a dvom)
* to make short work of this if you know someone that may have a DVOM ( digital volt/ohm meter) you can figure this from a bad battery, bad alternator and or parasitic draw.
*with a dvom and the car running check voltage at the battery across the + and - terminals. it should be anywhere from 13-14v when the engine is on. and above 12v when engine is off. this will determine a dead alterntor. if its below 13v and steadily dropping your alternator isnt charging. judging by the current information given i doubt its your alternator unless each trip after a jump or charge is very short.
*to determine if you have parasitic draw... remove the negative battery cable. get a dvom and set it to amperage setting, put one lead of the dvom to the negative post and one to a very good ground. watch the parasitic draw ( the amps being pulled when the car is off ). it should only draw miliamps . sorry i dont have the specs for it... check a fsm
* both those are very basic checks and if they are within spec you pretty much determined it is now a battery. remember there are very many things that can go wrong with a battery regardless of age. my honest opinion from the information given i want to say battery w/ a possible bad cell. like i said more info please. and good luck! hope i helped you and everyone one else with similar problems
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For myself, here's the scoop.
Alternator is charging just fine.
Doesn't matter if I drive 500km home, or a 5min zip to the grocery store. The battery is dead within 2 weeks of sitting.
The battery has, and holds, a charge. It's a spiral gel battery, Canadian Tire version of a optima yellow top.
Have been using a trickle charger (24h ~ of charging) when I find it's dead. It starts fine after charging it back up. And it's fine if I drive it atleast once every few days.
I'll check the draw next time I'm with the car. Sadly, I was heading south and the battery died on me. It was also -35 out, and I forgot to plug in the block heater. Needless to say, the car stayed at home.
Alternator is charging just fine.
Doesn't matter if I drive 500km home, or a 5min zip to the grocery store. The battery is dead within 2 weeks of sitting.
The battery has, and holds, a charge. It's a spiral gel battery, Canadian Tire version of a optima yellow top.
Have been using a trickle charger (24h ~ of charging) when I find it's dead. It starts fine after charging it back up. And it's fine if I drive it atleast once every few days.
I'll check the draw next time I'm with the car. Sadly, I was heading south and the battery died on me. It was also -35 out, and I forgot to plug in the block heater. Needless to say, the car stayed at home.
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#8
u have a draw. just take - cable off tell u fix it. check all your lights ,glove box, vanity mirrors, trunk. use a $1 test light from + poll to + cable (off) it is lights u have draw. little glow ok, bright bad. open the door dose it get brighter?
Then start pulling fuse tell it goes out and that is the circuit the draw is on. remove interior dome light fuse if u need the door open.
Then start pulling fuse tell it goes out and that is the circuit the draw is on. remove interior dome light fuse if u need the door open.
#9
the person who heard mechanical clicking it could be the antenna motor not turning off also un hook the negative side of the battery and HOOK UP AN AMP METER DIGITAL TYPE AND SEE WHAT IT DRAWS IT SHOULD BE VERY SMALL AS THE PERSON SAID ABOVE. ALSO GET A BATTERY TESTER TO CHECK EACH CELL AND SEE WHAT THE READING IS IT SOUND LIKE A CELL IS BAD AND DRAGGING DOWN THE BATTERY. IF THE BATTERY IS MORE THAN 3 YEARS OLD DUMP IT AND GET A NEW ONE.
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