msd ignition
#1
Lead Lap
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msd ignition
can you use msd ignition in a 1994 ls 400,with some nice spark plugs,and wires,what are the advantages of this,is it hard to do,well it make a differnce?
#2
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iTrader: (6)
IMO, the stock system is efficient enough for a stock level motor. It is doubtful you will notice any gains with a multiple spark type system installed. If the flow characteristics have been improved along with increased fuel delivery, a higher output ignition system may be of benefit.
#3
MSD ignition
I also researched this a few years ago. I'm a big fan of MSD products and run their ignition upgrades in my older vehicles. Talked to an engineer at MSD and he said the same thing as RA40, the stock system is so good that it would be a waste of time and money.
I've has my 1997 LS400 for 5 years and the found that a simple maintenance regimen will keep your spark perfect; NGK iridium sparkplugs, water injection (allows use of regular fuel,) and cleaning the distributor/rotor contacts every other oil change.
Cleaning the distributor contacts is something most technicians skip and it makes a HUGE difference in smooth idle and response. Never go more than 10k miles without scraping the oxidization off of them if you want the entire spark signal to reach your plugs.
I've has my 1997 LS400 for 5 years and the found that a simple maintenance regimen will keep your spark perfect; NGK iridium sparkplugs, water injection (allows use of regular fuel,) and cleaning the distributor/rotor contacts every other oil change.
Cleaning the distributor contacts is something most technicians skip and it makes a HUGE difference in smooth idle and response. Never go more than 10k miles without scraping the oxidization off of them if you want the entire spark signal to reach your plugs.
#5
water injection
It is easiest just to buy a complete water injection kit. You want a kit with “vacuum” switch instead of a pressure (turbo application) switch.
You will find the most detailed specs on water injection in turbo charging guides since it is commonly used to control pre-ignition on high-performance turbo engines.
The components are very basic:
1. A water pump (I used a aftermarket w/w pump.)
2. A check valve in your w/w line.
3. An adjustable vacuum switch.
4. A relay (fog light relay is perfect.)
5. An indicator light (LED.)
6. A nozzle.
7. Miscellaneous hoses and wiring.
A. The washer pump T's into your w/w line after the stock pump.
B. The check valve goes after both pumps in the w/w line so that the water injection pump doesn't suck air from the w/w nozzles.
C. The vacuum switch is attached to a vacuum port. 2nd generation LS series has an open port front-center of the intake manifold.
D. The relay power is fused to the main power bus in the fuse box.
E. The relay signal is picked up from the fuel pump relay and passes through the vacuum switch (power to pump only when car is running AND the low vacuum switch point has been met.)
The result, when vacuum is low, the vacuum switch is thrown, the pump starts, and it squirts some w/w fluid into the intake manifold just in from of the plenum. This cools down the intake charge slightly and raises the subjective octane rating of the fuel a whole bunch.
I added a very tiny green LED on the dash to aid in adjusting the switch point.
You will find the most detailed specs on water injection in turbo charging guides since it is commonly used to control pre-ignition on high-performance turbo engines.
The components are very basic:
1. A water pump (I used a aftermarket w/w pump.)
2. A check valve in your w/w line.
3. An adjustable vacuum switch.
4. A relay (fog light relay is perfect.)
5. An indicator light (LED.)
6. A nozzle.
7. Miscellaneous hoses and wiring.
A. The washer pump T's into your w/w line after the stock pump.
B. The check valve goes after both pumps in the w/w line so that the water injection pump doesn't suck air from the w/w nozzles.
C. The vacuum switch is attached to a vacuum port. 2nd generation LS series has an open port front-center of the intake manifold.
D. The relay power is fused to the main power bus in the fuse box.
E. The relay signal is picked up from the fuel pump relay and passes through the vacuum switch (power to pump only when car is running AND the low vacuum switch point has been met.)
The result, when vacuum is low, the vacuum switch is thrown, the pump starts, and it squirts some w/w fluid into the intake manifold just in from of the plenum. This cools down the intake charge slightly and raises the subjective octane rating of the fuel a whole bunch.
I added a very tiny green LED on the dash to aid in adjusting the switch point.
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