Okay, checked the forums and haven't found a senario. Heres the deal.

About two weeks ago I put on new rotors and pads all around, but didn't have a chance to bleed the brakes. The brake feel was much better, but knew that the brakes needed to be bled and since no real problems with the peddle, procrastanated.

Well, I had the brakes bled today, and after we did it the first time, we lost the pedal and now it goes to the floor all the time, regardless of pumping.

1. Did it properly at a shop, starting...RR, RL , RF, and LF.
2. Repeated this 3 more times!!!

We repeated while monitoring the resevior levels and still couldn't get the pedal feel back.
It will go almost to the floor no matter how many times you pump it.

The shop's only thought was that once you bled the brakes, the master cylinder goes bad at time the pedal first drops to the floor. Thus now needing a new Master.

Determined it was still just air in the lines or master, tonight I bled the master twice, and the lines again twice! Running out of patience and brake fluid!!!

Any experiences on this or direction appreciated???

 

Rather than the pumping action to remove the air and the fluid, take it to the shop and have them vaccuum them from the caliper area.
Of course, you'll have to tow it to do that.
I don't think you need a brake master all of a sudden.
I assume you used DOT 3 or DOT 4 and NOT DOT 5. DOT 5 could have ruined your brakes!!!

 

I've had the understanding the brake bleeding needs to be done by a dealer. You need a service tool to run the antilock pump and it's valving. I would not be surprised if the air is in the pump.

 

Appreciate that. You think that is needed since this car doesn't have trac-control, or you talking about the ABS?

 

i think shes talking about the ABS

 

Antilock Braking System has the pump... Thought it was standard on your Lexus.

 

I will see if I can find a way to bleed the ABS systen...hoping much like bleeding the M/C? In terms of disconnect lines, push fluid, plug holes, repeat, then re-attach lines to ABS.

 

When I did a caliper upgrade on my previous car - having the shop do the bleeding was the best $45 I've ever spent. It was driveable, but I could tell they weren't working as they should. I had it done at NTB.

Before buying any parts I would have a shop take a look see.

Good luck.......

 

Check that each piston is retracting properly and that the pads or piston hasn't seized. Before putting the whole deal back, I check/clean the piston boots of any grit/grime. That fine stuff is enough to freeze it up.

 

So...

are you telling me this doesn't work?


Lorenzo 816
92 LS400
almost 200k!!!!!!