yeah you guys do know your stuff and i really appreciate the help. I keep rereading the things you guys are telling me and starting to understand it a lot more.. I need to understand this in order for my stuff to work properly. IMO modifying a car is a hobby. these days people just pay people off to do work for them and don't have first hand experience or knowledge of anything for there own car/modifications. which really sets me off cause imo thats not what modding is about. everything i have I installed myself.

I guess i'm going to buy another Sub and make a whole new custom box for the back seat. Not looking forward to it haha i hate working with fiberglass!! I'm thinking one 8 in each back seat and the amp in the middle.

another question pops up in mind.. if i get the JL amp. it outputs the same power 1-4 ohms correct? so will my single sub which is a single voice coil at 3 ohms.. wired to the amp being 1.5 ohms be working too hard still?? I rather have the quality rather then the big boom.. so running at the subs rating at 3 ohm is my best interest.. beside you can't really hear the bass outside the car cause most of it is dynamatted. when you sit inside the car its plenty of bass already for me.

 

Just your average information technology grunt who has a passion for audio. I've been a member of numerous home theater sites since the 90's. Back then guys like Dan Wiggins (Adire Audio / inventor of the XBL^2 technology), Tom Vodhandle (one of the founders of SVS Sound), Chad Kuypers (founder of Ascendant Audio & Epik Subwoofers) and Deon Bearden (bass list, Klipsch, AE Speakers, TC Sounds, currently with Stillwater Designs) were prolific posters.

In the last few years, there has been a huge jump in the number of guys that build sub drivers as a hobby. It's awesome to build a sub that no one else in the world has.

And if you can't build it, guys like David from Pink Star Industries and FMS can build one for you. Whether you provide a few parts (like a blown sub to start with) or have just an idea, he can do it. He worked with Scott Atwell (FRC Soundworks, Destijl Engineering, Resonant Engineering, Fi Car Audio) and went on to RE when it was sold to US Amps. Now he has formed his own company and own line of subs. Plus his shop is about 30 minutes from my house. I have seen him perform his magic on a pile of parts turning them into a working sub in a mater of minutes.

Just to finish things up, I wanted low end monster sub capable of playing in a small box. I provided David with a Konaki motor (clone of a Digital Designs motor) and an Eclipse Ti basket and he delivered. This thing has Theile/Small parameters exactly like I wanted while looking extremely intimidating in the process.

 

JL uses a design that puts out the same power no matter the load as long as it is between 1 and 4 ohms. They are one of the few that do this. Most amp makers use an unregulated power supply so that the output increases as you drop the load and/or increase the input voltage. Some of the aftermarket alternators and batteries will push the electrical system to near 16v. There are even some amps that can handle 18v and higher. Some of the Stetsom amps that do that can push upwards of 12,000w.

Load makes no difference in sound quality. If you don't want "boom" then design a box that isn't boomy.