TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys I have 2 12" MB Quart PWE304 Premium subs at home and will be installing them into my car very soon hopefully ... All I'm waiting on is the amp, I've narrowed it down to two amps and was wondering which of ther two was better for these subs? I'm trying to decide between the Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd mono amp or the Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bd mono amp.

First here's the info on the subs:

12" subwoofer with Dual 4-ohm voice coils

Titanium coated polypropylene dustcap
inverted Santoprene rubber surround

cast-alloy basket

RMS power handling: 600 RMS watts
Max power handling: 1200 MAX watts

frequency range: 18-300 Hz

sensitivity: 90 dB

mounting depth: 6-3/16"

recommended sealed box volume: 1.0 - 1.25 cu. ft.

Stats on P1000-1bd:

Punch Series Monoblock Class BD Amplifier
1000 Watts x 1 RMS @ 1 ohm
500 Watts x 1 RMS @ 2 ohm
250 Watts x 1 RMS @ 4 ohm
MOSFET power supply
Remote bass level input (remote level control sold separately)
LED power, thermal, and protect indicators
Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 45 Hz or 0-12 dB bass boost at 12 kHz depending on crossover selection)
On-board differential inputs eliminates noise picked up by the signal cable
Integrated Trans"ana technology simplifies the signal path of the amplifier allowing the signal to travel through the amplifier at a lower voltage. The result is greater reliability and exceptional sound quality.
RCA Pass-thru outputs
Featured custom designed TO-247 MOSFETs have 60% more metal tab area providing more power handling capacity, lower impedance and improved heat dissipation over traditional TO-220 MOSFETs found in most competitor's amps.
Built in NOMAD is a "real time" analog computer that protects your amplifier from shorting speaker wires and dangerously low speaker impedances.
Cast aluminum heatsink evenly distributes excess heat across entire amplifier heatsink
Nickel-plated RCA level inputs
Nickel-plated screw terminals
Variable high-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Variable low-pass filter (50-500 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-250 Hz
Dimensions: 14.375"L x 7.625"W x 2.25

Stats on T1000-1bd:

500 W x 1 @ 4 Ohms RMS

750 W x 1 @ 2 Ohms RMS

1000 W x 1 @ 1 Ohms RMS

Total power 1000 Watts

Bridgeable: Master Sync, Power Sync, (bd-sync2)

Crossover: LP 32-250Hz 24dB per Octave, Subsonic Filter 28Hz

Tone controls: Bass Control, 0 to 18 dB @ 35-70 Hz

Signal input: Low level - , Quantity - 1, Type - RCA(pr)

Line output: 1 RCA(pr)

Phase control: 0/180 degrees

Power input: Connector - Block, Wire gauge - 1/0 AWG

Speaker output: Block

Heatsink: Type -Cast, Cooling -Fan Cooled

Remote control: Included, Type - Wired, Controls - Bass

Class B/D

Dimensions 2.6 X 12.8 X 18 (inches)

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

No one has an opinion?

Can anyone at least tell me what the difference is between the two? They look pretty similar to me, but they are priced differently, anyone have any ideas?

Robert_J

The first is CEA 2006 compliant. That means it used a standard methodology to determine the power output. As opposed to the $49.99 Pyramid amps that are rated at 2,000w.

What is your budget? Have you looked at other amps? Especially pure class D amps since they are more efficient and have less current draw.

-Robert

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

There's really no set budget, but the guys that will be installing everything told me that rockford amps pair really well with MB-Quart speakers so i was trying to get something in the Rockford Fosgate line that looked good and both these amps were recommended to me by various shops ...

What other amps did you have in mind?

-PS I'd also like the functionality of a bass control **** with whichever amp i get ...

Robert_J

Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D
Elemental Designs 9.1
Audioque 1200D

All 3 are class D and have been 3rd party tested to prove they put out the wattage that is claimed. As for pairing RF with MB, why? As long as your amp produces a quality, unclipped signal and the proper wattage into the final impedance load it doesn't matter.

And I like being able to reach a real person at the company if there is any problems. Try that at RF. With the 3 companies above, you can reach the owner very easily.

-Robert

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

Ok so now here's my other question, are these amps you listed going to provide enough power to my subs to not underpower them? I think my subs are rated at 4 ohms but they might be 2 ohms, all these amps look like they're providing under 500 watts @ 4 ohms ... My subs each are 600 watts rms and 1200 peak I believe, so wouldn't i need something with a little more power? and since I'll be using the same amp for both subs does this mean I'll need an even higher power amp?

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

thats shouldnt be a problem for the sundown amp. really high quality stuff. if money isnt an issue i would pick that over the fosgate. its producing 1500 watt at 1ohm. unless you want to pick up an amp for each subwoofer???? your two sub would be producing 1200 watt at 1ohm. you have 300 watt of play which is really good. you want that little room so you dont stress your amp out to much.


there is a picture diagram of wiring them up

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

Wow thanks man, that clears things up alot

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

im glad to help out. i learn from all my audio mistakes already

BigManne

iTrader: (3)

or you could buy a very powerful 2 channel. class d and 1 ohm stable make more sense though.

Robert_J

If "underpowering" subs caused problems then you would have problems every single time you turned the volume down to a normal level.

Sub myth #1 - link

Required power is also dependent on the enclosure. Adire Audio explained this with using their Brahma subs in this whitepaper. You can easily determine this by modeling the sub with one of many software programs.

And you don't need to push your subs to their limits either. The less excursion the less distortion unless you have a sub with XBL^2 or LMT technology.

Subs don't produce wattage. They convert electrical energy into mechanical energy.

-Robert

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys well I just ordered the Sundown SAZ-1500D amp so let's see how well it does when it arrives ...

Also, I'm planning on having the 2 12" subs custom-mounted on the rear deck (one on each side of the stock sub (which will be removed and covered) ... Does this sound like a good idea? I'm thinking this would keep ALL the bass in the cabin instead of in the trunk, No trunk rattle FTW ... What would I have to tell the shop to do to make this work? I don't think these subs would work in an IB setup so what kind of box would need to be built underneath the subs in the trunk?

Robert_J

One that has the proper air space to give you the frequency response that you want. A high Qtc system will give you a hump in the response and have more "kick" (totally dependent on where the hump is though). A low Qtc system will give you a smooth response. But coupled with a your car's cabin gain, it may be a little heavy on the low end.

There's a good explanation of Qtc in the middle of this link. In fact, the entire page is a good read. Jim is a very knowledgable poster at many car audio and home theater forums that I also frequent.

-Robert

TruPlaya26

iTrader: (4)

Ok i tried reading that page but it kind of confused me more lol ... I guess if i tell you what i want out of the system maybe you can help me out more ... Pretty much right now I'm focusing on the subs, and will be doing the HU and rest of the speakers later, I just want to get deep, smooth bass. No rattling or distortion just deep and smooth, which I'll be able to adjust the level with wired bass **** which I'm planning on having installed in the ashtray ... would this change anything?

Robert_J

Deep and smooth are still very subjective terms. I know that my home theater bass is "smooth" because I have plotted the frequency response and use an EQ to make sure it is flat. Deep depends on the material. In the car, I'm more of a rock guy so I like a little punch in my bass. In the home, I want DEEEEEEEEEP. My current subs are -3db at 17hz. When I upgrade to four 18's, I'm shooting for -3db at 8hz.

Go to a quality audio store and ask to listen to a few cars. When you hear the one that you like, then let them know. The amp you are getting is great. I've also read nothing but good reviews about the MB subs. So there is no reason why it won't sound good if you get a quality install.

-Robert