Newbie question (subs and amp)
i have a Hifonics BX1500D monoblock amp and two 10" Alipine Type R subs.
i want to wire the subs to see a 1 OHM load. the amp is rated 1500 watts at 1 OHM. when i wire the subs together, will each sub see 1500 watts? or will the 1500 watts be split up between the two subs?
im asking this because the subs are only 1000 watts peak and i dont want to blow the subs.
thanks in advance
i want to wire the subs to see a 1 OHM load. the amp is rated 1500 watts at 1 OHM. when i wire the subs together, will each sub see 1500 watts? or will the 1500 watts be split up between the two subs?
im asking this because the subs are only 1000 watts peak and i dont want to blow the subs.
thanks in advance
Last edited by 1tym; Feb 11, 2004 at 11:46 AM.
Assuming you have the 10" Type R SWR-1041D dual 4-ohm voicecoil woofers:
Each sub has two voicecoil connections, with each connection having a + and -. If you take one woofer and wire the voicecoils in parallel (+ to +, - to -), this will present a 2-ohm load to your amp. If you do the same thing with the second woofer, then tie the +'s of the two woofers together, then the -'s, you will present a 1-ohm load to your amp. (In other words, all 4 of the + connections on the (2) woofers are all tied together, and all 4 of the - connections are all tied together. The combined + and - are then connected to your monoblock + and -.
Assuming that the subs are reasonably matched, the power will be divided equally among the 4 voicecoils. Since each woofer has two voicecoils, each woofer will draw half of the total power. So your 1500 watts will be divided equally to the two woofers, 750 to each.
Now that brings up another issue. When you run an amp with an equivalent 1 ohm load, it tends to be running at the limits of stability, especially if its power specs are limited at 1 ohm. Manufacturers like to flex their muscles and spec things down to 1 ohm so that they can advertise higher max power numbers for their amp. In reality, the amp may not be stable over frequency when you are really cranking the thing, OR, it may overheat much more easily, especially if you haven't done an adequate job of allowing for amp cooling in your install. So in this case, I'd be more worried about blowing the subs from overcranking them with an amp that may not be totally happy at 1 ohm, and I'd also worry about the potential overheating problem. You might try the full-parallel hookup and see what you wind up with. If the amp overheats, goes into thermal shutdown, or just starts sounding bad, consider re-wiring the woofers with each woofer's voicecoils in series instead of parallel, then parallel the two woofers. This will yield an equivalent 4-ohm total load that your amp will be just fine with. You'll have to turn the amp's gain setting up a bit more to get the same amount of current output that you would have with the full-parallel setting, but the impedance won't be a problem. The "derating" factor (running the amp at below its max possible power) will be healthier on your amp, long-term.
If you're not doing SPL competitions with the amp running pedal-to-the-metal, you might want to try the second suggestion first.
Each sub has two voicecoil connections, with each connection having a + and -. If you take one woofer and wire the voicecoils in parallel (+ to +, - to -), this will present a 2-ohm load to your amp. If you do the same thing with the second woofer, then tie the +'s of the two woofers together, then the -'s, you will present a 1-ohm load to your amp. (In other words, all 4 of the + connections on the (2) woofers are all tied together, and all 4 of the - connections are all tied together. The combined + and - are then connected to your monoblock + and -.
Assuming that the subs are reasonably matched, the power will be divided equally among the 4 voicecoils. Since each woofer has two voicecoils, each woofer will draw half of the total power. So your 1500 watts will be divided equally to the two woofers, 750 to each.
Now that brings up another issue. When you run an amp with an equivalent 1 ohm load, it tends to be running at the limits of stability, especially if its power specs are limited at 1 ohm. Manufacturers like to flex their muscles and spec things down to 1 ohm so that they can advertise higher max power numbers for their amp. In reality, the amp may not be stable over frequency when you are really cranking the thing, OR, it may overheat much more easily, especially if you haven't done an adequate job of allowing for amp cooling in your install. So in this case, I'd be more worried about blowing the subs from overcranking them with an amp that may not be totally happy at 1 ohm, and I'd also worry about the potential overheating problem. You might try the full-parallel hookup and see what you wind up with. If the amp overheats, goes into thermal shutdown, or just starts sounding bad, consider re-wiring the woofers with each woofer's voicecoils in series instead of parallel, then parallel the two woofers. This will yield an equivalent 4-ohm total load that your amp will be just fine with. You'll have to turn the amp's gain setting up a bit more to get the same amount of current output that you would have with the full-parallel setting, but the impedance won't be a problem. The "derating" factor (running the amp at below its max possible power) will be healthier on your amp, long-term.
If you're not doing SPL competitions with the amp running pedal-to-the-metal, you might want to try the second suggestion first.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RoMiLex
Lexus Audio, Video, Security & Electronics
7
Aug 13, 2014 09:15 PM
XxLS400xX
Lexus Audio, Video, Security & Electronics
7
Apr 29, 2003 07:15 AM







