Also, with the wire its the bigger the better. Youll have less of a voltage drop due to the wire. plus it looks tough.

the only drawbacks would be trying to maneuver it around and the cost. 0 gauge wire is huge.

 

Word/Ditto.

 

yeah im thinking 2 guage...anyone ever upgrade the 3 majic wires that rcscott is talking about? about the advice about low pass filter. i was confused because this amp has a low pass or a high pass. on or off, not adjustable. i can only adjust the freq. thanx, alot of great general power supply info.

 

Im doing magic 3 tomorrow, but havent installed the subs yet. I have some big plans =)
but not too big...

right now the car is pretty much gutted, the entire stock stereo system is out and baffles are ready to build

Im trying to decide if I really want 1200 watts of if i should tone it down.

 

so any wire would do? that could cut the cost factor. you could get wire for cheap at the right places...

 

Welding cable from a supplier would be the cheapest per foot, but you may have to buy a certain amount. Its also alot less flexible than the car stereo specific wire.

 

might as well get the good stuff.....the only thing about the majic 3 is locating them, and connectors? where to get them , how much, what kind>? are they even needed? what exactly is involved i wonder, it sounds like a great idea...

 

That's interesting about it only being on or off... I would think then that you want the LPF off and HPF on. Wait... the freq. adjustment is in Hz, right? That's what I'm talking about... maybe I'm the one that's confused Can you post or PM me a pic of your amp's controls?

And I would definately go with stereo wiring; I know other stuff is cheaper, but stereo-specific wiring is much better insulated and is a whooooole hell of a lot easier to work with: I have stereo wiring in my car and "welder's" wiring in my boat. I would re-do my boat system if I had the cash.

 

yeah freq in hz. its on of those buttons that pressed in its hp and out its lp. i have it on lp. low pass only. mono bridged 4 ohms, only running 2 12s with the amp.

 

What brand and model amp do you have? I know what type of button you are talking about, but I'm not sure how to "set" it... Is it a generic amp, like US Acoustics? (Hope that doesn't offend anyone... )

 

my amp works fine and is set fine. its a ppi pc2600 600 watts. not generic by any means. thanx take care.

 

Ok, nevermind then... I thought you were asking for help, guess I was confused! Peace.....

 

US Acoustix is one of the brands loved by the audio guys =)
I have an amp in my car for my components. Clean and efficient power.

ps. Im not offended

 

i appreciate your comments, they did help. i am asking for help. but im just saying why are we talking about it? just didnt want to get side tracked and im probably getting another amp after i get proper wiring and good cap. anyways i dont have a scanner or i would have posted the ppi amp, but it only has a freq. adjustment. and a hp/lp button. cmon man seriously its all good.

 

HEHE That's why I always make sure to tell people "I'm not calling you out" or "by all means correct me if I'm wrong"... you just can't tell the "tone" of someones post and whether they'll get offended or not. Elclassico....been a while since the PPI....buuuuut, If I remember right (and I don't remember the values) the frequency was just under half....my gain was just over halfway. I pretty much just left those where they were all the time and used my pioneer premier deck to control the sub output for when I wanted high or low bass. Hope that helps...I know it's not very technical or specific, that system was stolen years ago...hehe, they even took my radar detector that time! (bastards)

*added after reading back through posts* and a loooong time ago when I posted last (I went to bed early, trying to get better from being sick) I meant that every car IS different (I was messed up on Tylenol Cold & Sinus Maximum Strength Nighttime)