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Resurrecting this 'front camera business' from over a year ago...I know, my bad.
This is just another of many different options for us guys that just don't feel like taking off the front bumper. It's a nice work around and it's working perfectly for me, and doesn't cost much at all. That's a win-win in my book.
This lil guy is actually for mounting on the license plate as a back up camera.
Hit the app, it links up to my phones Wi-Fi, front cam is up and running.


In the photos, it is temp mounted on the cross beam behind the front grille. I have it adjusted so the lines used for reversing are used to inform me when I'm 10 inches away from parking curbs. I just need to fish the power cord through the firewall as I am using the USB in the center console, for power. If that's too much trouble I'll just *fuse tap* it into the fuse box under the hood. All in all a pretty clean install. You can't really see the camera from the front.

 

Genius!

 

How did you get it working? I was looking on this camera for several months now. But this is a Wi-Fi camera and the only way I se to connect to it to connect phone to Wi-Fi network of that camera, but then you can’t use your cell data when connected.
could you explain the process.

 

Thanks, it works well...

 

I turn on my phone's WiFi about 30 seconds before I park. I select the camera from the WiFi list and it connects. I then open the app on my phone and the camera is up and running. I will post more pics tomorrow as I will complete the permanent wiring/power setup. Was thinking of hard mounting the camera to the cross member, with screws. Decided against that idea as the black zip ties are holding the camera firmly in place, no problems at all. (don't really want to screw into the cross member anyway).










FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD!


I will make a very small notch in the top edge of the fuse box to run the wire inside. Pinch off a piece of butyl caulking to cove the notch/wire for water proofing.

 

^^^ I can confirm that the open slots on the 2018 are also available on the 2021 model. I used it for the Beat-Sonic camera.

 

Very good info, thanks for sharing. 👍🏾

 

For those who want to follow suit, and use a fuse tap:
The left side/prong of the fuse tap carries the current flow, so it matters in this case how you insert the fuse tap into the fuse terminal/slot.
Vacant OEM fuse terminals/slots in the fuse box should have a metal contact on only one side, when you look into the fuse slot...the other side will not have a metal contact as there is no device to power. (i.e. why it's vacant)
So obviously, you want the left side/prong of the fuse tap to make contact with the metal prong in the fuse terminal/slot.
Using a vacant terminal location, (no fuse), in the fuse terminal/slot, as in mine and tecman's photos, the bottom slot of the fuse tap will remain vacant...only the top slot of the fuse tap will have a fuse inserted to power the new device.
If using a terminal location in a fuse box that has an existing fuse, you will remove that EXISTING fuse and insert it into the BOTTOM slot of the fuse tap...this restores the operation of the existing fuse to its device.
The TOP slot of the fuse tap is for the NEW DEVICE.
Never use a fuse tap in a location that powers any of the vehicle's critical systems. IGN, ECU, SRS, ABS, PCM, air bags, etc.

 

ok, makes sense. It looks like if any one has spare old phone it could be used as monitor for that camera always connected to that wi-fi, so no need to switch your primary phone to that camera network. There is also a way to install hacked version of Android Auto which allows to run any app installed on your device using head unit. So JoiRide app could be used on your car screen.

 

Yeah, I could hook up one of my old phones and have it purely dedicated as a monitor. For me personally, just using my primary phone works, it connects in seconds. With my ProClip phone mount for the LC500, it's a very smooth transition.
www.proclipusa.com

 

Wouldn't mind having the Android Auto hack. I would only use it for Google maps though, so I'm not too pressed. I have spoken with other 2018 LC owners that got the Apple Carplay/Android Auto upgrade. About $250 at their dealerships. I was told by both dealers near me that my car wasn't able to receive this retrofit...without even looking at my vehicle. It seems like it's just something they don't want to deal with, to be honest...

 

The android auto hack is not for the car. Car will use the same version what it has. The hack is on a phone side which starts to allow all the apps to be used with android auto. So the car head unit is just a monitor with touch capability to control the apps. So you basically see the mirror of your device sort of.

I didn’t try it yet because I was not sure how phone connects to Wi-Fi camera. I was even thinking to make a legit AndroidAuto app which will work with camera, but there is a limitation from Google, it not allows to stream play any video when in drive mode. That’s why AndroidAuto hack comes in handy

 

Ah ok, got cha.