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There are only three recommendations/ requirements
6 months , 5,000 miles
GF 6A
5W - 30
Toyota does not make oil..
Any oil that meets these requirements will work for this application. Regular, Synthetic, or Synthetic Blend..
Which is best is a different and longer post.
Yeah I guess I shouldve said does toyota sell branded 5w30 conventional. I would assume no auto manufacturer actually makes their own oil even if it has their OEM label on it. "OEM MB genuine oil" is in fact liquimolly if I am not mistaken, for example.
Yeah I guess I shouldve said does toyota sell branded 5w30 conventional. I would assume no auto manufacturer actually makes their own oil even if it has their OEM label on it. "OEM MB genuine oil" is in fact liquimolly if I am not mistaken, for example.
Pretty sure TGMO is just some white labeled Mobil1, maybe some different additives vs the shelf version
Could be a fluke or could be something bad. If you are a diyer, and of course want to be objective, I would start trending data via oil analysis.
This also isnt your first oil change right?
yes on the oil analysis, already on board a while ago.
Yes, I work deeply well beyond oil changes on cars.
Asked about metal flakes on filter pleats because I wanted to know what you guys see on yours.
To be candid though, I haven’t really been checking oil filters closely until recently with the LX600 engine recall fiasco.
Metal flakes Circled in photos below, dark brown filter is old, possibly unchanged filter (6k-9k?). Light brown filter is 2.5K
I just did my 6-month oil change (only used about 800 miles in that 6 months, thanks to the wintertime inactivity). When you guys do your oil change, do you fill the oil up to the Full marker or right in the middle between low and full ? i used to always put it straight in the middle, but then my dealer told me i should keep it to the full line just in case. In case of what you ask? well in case it burn some oil, if I continuously bounce it off the rev limiter (i rarely, if ever, do that). Logic seems sound.
I do mine just shy of full so when oil expands should be just right..sure the engineers have figured this out when deciding where to put full line on stick.
I do mine just shy of full so when oil expands should be just right..sure the engineers have figured this out when deciding where to put full line on stick.
Would that be like the guy who under inflates his tires bc he knows driving will increase the pressure up to the door plate value?
Yes your google search will reveal a possible small expansion bases on wide temperature variance. Not enough for me to be too concerned about. Many more items may cause problems. Such as dirty oil funnels, not fully cleaning oil filter housings, over filling oil amounts, mixing grades of oil, over tightening filters or drain plugs. I have always contributed the slightly higher oil change to the oil being more "fluid" when hot and draining quicker and more completely into the oil pan resulting in a slight change. That is why I also do the level check after a 10 mile run Thanks for the specific research.