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Old Nov 28, 2021 | 12:14 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by LILEVO
Not tight at all, there are several inches of slack once the connector is removed from the mounting bracket (green). The yellow shows the new route of the O2 wires.

Everything is much farther away from the heat and exhaust. The factory mounting and routing was almost touching the headers, with the extension harnesses.



Any input as to why we run the extensions if we don’t need them? In my simple mind, it doesn’t seem like there is a point.
Old Nov 28, 2021 | 01:10 PM
  #47  
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Saves maybe 15-30 minutes when changing the O2 sensors. Some peoples hands/arms might be too big to reach up there and unplug the O2 sensor otherwise, which means you'll need to lower the motor down. You're no longer securing the factory connector to anything, they are just "loose"
Old Nov 28, 2021 | 02:40 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by LILEVO
... You're no longer securing the factory connector to anything, they are just "loose"
this is the biggest downside, now that they are loose and moving/vibrating there will be a more likely occurrence of premature harness failure at some point down the road vs if it was securely clipped in place
Old Nov 28, 2021 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 93MSB
this is the biggest downside, now that they are loose and moving/vibrating there will be a more likely occurrence of premature harness failure at some point down the road vs if it was securely clipped in place
The problem with the driver side connector is that it points the O2 extension harness right into the PPE header pipe. My extension heat wrap was touching the header before it had a chance to angle down and away from it.
Old Nov 28, 2021 | 03:07 PM
  #50  
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Your experience is making me consider yanking mine off.
Old Nov 29, 2021 | 09:58 AM
  #51  
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Day 3: Car is totally back to normal. After KCLV got down to 4 on day 2, it had no problems getting back up over 26 and the issue is once again "gone".

Old Nov 29, 2021 | 05:32 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by LILEVO
Day 3: Car is totally back to normal. After KCLV got down to 4 on day 2, it had no problems getting back up over 26 and the issue is once again "gone".
This is the kind of problem I hate the most. Cars never heal themselves...
Old Nov 29, 2021 | 09:52 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by LILEVO
Day 3: Car is totally back to normal. After KCLV got down to 4 on day 2, it had no problems getting back up over 26 and the issue is once again "gone".
I too experienced weird issues kinda like this but on my 03 Toyota Matrix XRS back then. Had the oddest issues and codes were all leaning to a vacuum leak, faulty fuel injectors, or a bad maf sensor. Replaced the maf sensor with Delphi branded one. Car ran great for about 1 month. Then suddenly, car would run poorly and bogged so hard. I remember the codes related to o2 sensors. I decided to start my car one more time before ordering o2 sensors and boom! No check engine light. No issue what so ever? Car would run fine one day and horrible the next. It was all random and when ever it was driving poorly, codes kept pointing to o2 sensors, fuel injectors, or the maf sensor? I datalogged and checked the Delphi maf sensor and it was working. This issue drove me nuts! I almost replaced the ECU but decided to try one last shot with a OEM denso maf sensor. Doing that finally FIXED all my issues. Never again am I going any aftermarket stock electronics on any of my vehicles.

So in short, it wouldn't hurt what ISFpowered suggested and try the denso oem o2 sensors.
Old Nov 30, 2021 | 05:45 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by idoke1
I too experienced weird issues kinda like this but on my 03 Toyota Matrix XRS back then. Had the oddest issues and codes were all leaning to a vacuum leak, faulty fuel injectors, or a bad maf sensor. Replaced the maf sensor with Delphi branded one. Car ran great for about 1 month. Then suddenly, car would run poorly and bogged so hard. I remember the codes related to o2 sensors. I decided to start my car one more time before ordering o2 sensors and boom! No check engine light. No issue what so ever? Car would run fine one day and horrible the next. It was all random and when ever it was driving poorly, codes kept pointing to o2 sensors, fuel injectors, or the maf sensor? I datalogged and checked the Delphi maf sensor and it was working. This issue drove me nuts! I almost replaced the ECU but decided to try one last shot with a OEM denso maf sensor. Doing that finally FIXED all my issues. Never again am I going any aftermarket stock electronics on any of my vehicles.

So in short, it wouldn't hurt what ISFpowered suggested and try the denso oem o2 sensors.
PPE was quick to tell me to only run oem densos to avoid problems.
Old Nov 30, 2021 | 08:05 AM
  #55  
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I was throwing codes left and right after my header install. I thought I could save a little money and buy off brand upstream sand downstream 02’s from rockauto, NEGATIVE!

After a week of troubleshooting, I replaced them with new OEM Denso’s and boom, no more check engine light. Our cars are super picky with it comes the 02 sensors and MAF. Seems like they only like OEM Densos for some reason.
Old Nov 30, 2021 | 04:08 PM
  #56  
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Well, NTK/NGK is an OEM supplier so they are "as good" as Denso. These are brand new as of two weeks ago.

I've never had any issues with them in the past on any other cars and I have been running NTK on this car since 3/2020 (without this issue). I will order Denso ones and get them installed. Fingers crossed.
Old Dec 8, 2021 | 12:25 PM
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Got the Denso sensors in and the harness is about 5 inches shorter than the NTK. Looks like I'm going to cut/splice these longer. I'm not running extension harnesses again and there's no way I can extend the other end of the plug without a lot a removing things.

Old Dec 8, 2021 | 01:32 PM
  #58  
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 02:10 PM
  #59  
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Finished "extended" Denso/Toyota sensor. Soldered, heat shrink, finished with Tesa tape
Old Dec 8, 2021 | 02:34 PM
  #60  
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Hopefully this solves your issue🤞



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