Electrical problem? Battery?
02-09-19, 10:48 AM
#16
Alternator charges the battery, that's it.
Did you replace the starter and alt with factory parts or off brand units? Connections super tight at both? If you can twist any connection with your hand, no matter how much force you use, it's too loose.
With all that said, your problem seems to be your battery, like others have said.
V.
02-09-19, 12:06 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
The only thing the starter and the battery have to do with each other is that they both have 12v going to them..... nothing else. So was no need in changing the alternator just because the starter was bad. Like saying "I changed my tires out, so for prevenatprev measures, I changed my headlights bulbs as well", lol.
Alternator charges the battery, that's it.
Did you replace the starter and alt with factory parts or off brand units? Connections super tight at both? If you can twist any connection with your hand, no matter how much force you use, it's too loose.
With all that said, your problem seems to be your battery, like others have said.
V.
Alternator charges the battery, that's it.
Did you replace the starter and alt with factory parts or off brand units? Connections super tight at both? If you can twist any connection with your hand, no matter how much force you use, it's too loose.
With all that said, your problem seems to be your battery, like others have said.
V.
02-09-19, 12:08 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
02-09-19, 03:50 PM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I just installed the battery and car instantly started up. I’m taking it for like a 2-3 hour drive with stops tonight so let’s see how it goes. On start up nothing hesitated or anything I have no doubt it was the battery. CRAZY how sensitive this car is with a problematic battery. Would have never guessed a car showing good voltage would cause so many electrical gremlins to pop up.
02-09-19, 08:13 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just got back home I stopped at least 7 times and started up so quickly and without a studder or anything. Never seen or experienced a car act out so much over a bad battery. Wonder what happened to the battery seeing it wasn’t even two years old.
02-10-19, 11:40 PM
#21
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Glad to hear the problem is solved. A sulfated cell will vex you. AMHIK.
02-11-19, 07:59 AM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
02-12-19, 12:52 PM
#23
Pole Position
You can have a faulty battery that reads 12v, but won't have enough amps to crank the engine over.
You need to test the battery when the load is applied, so when the engine is attempting to start. A faulty battery could read 12v at rest, but when you apply the load to it, from the starter when attempting to start, the voltage will dip extremely low, and prevent the vehicle from starting.
This is also why a faulty battery will also read 12v, and have enough amperage to run the radio and other light load accessories, but will not have enough to start the engine.
02-12-19, 01:08 PM
#24
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
When testing a battery, you need to check the amperage, not only the voltage.
You can have a faulty battery that reads 12v, but won't have enough amps to crank the engine over.
You need to test the battery when the load is applied, so when the engine is attempting to start. A faulty battery could read 12v at rest, but when you apply the load to it, from the starter when attempting to start, the voltage will dip extremely low, and prevent the vehicle from starting.
This is also why a faulty battery will also read 12v, and have enough amperage to run the radio and other light load accessories, but will not have enough to start the engine.
You can have a faulty battery that reads 12v, but won't have enough amps to crank the engine over.
You need to test the battery when the load is applied, so when the engine is attempting to start. A faulty battery could read 12v at rest, but when you apply the load to it, from the starter when attempting to start, the voltage will dip extremely low, and prevent the vehicle from starting.
This is also why a faulty battery will also read 12v, and have enough amperage to run the radio and other light load accessories, but will not have enough to start the engine.
02-12-19, 01:33 PM
#25
Instructor
Thread Starter
When testing a battery, you need to check the amperage, not only the voltage.
You can have a faulty battery that reads 12v, but won't have enough amps to crank the engine over.
You need to test the battery when the load is applied, so when the engine is attempting to start. A faulty battery could read 12v at rest, but when you apply the load to it, from the starter when attempting to start, the voltage will dip extremely low, and prevent the vehicle from starting.
This is also why a faulty battery will also read 12v, and have enough amperage to run the radio and other light load l, but will not have enough to start the engine.
You can have a faulty battery that reads 12v, but won't have enough amps to crank the engine over.
You need to test the battery when the load is applied, so when the engine is attempting to start. A faulty battery could read 12v at rest, but when you apply the load to it, from the starter when attempting to start, the voltage will dip extremely low, and prevent the vehicle from starting.
This is also why a faulty battery will also read 12v, and have enough amperage to run the radio and other light load l, but will not have enough to start the engine.
02-12-19, 09:15 PM
#27
Battery load testers are pretty cheap these days. Just puts a load on the battery. Like mentioned above, good voltage can mean absolutely nothing.
V.
V.
02-13-19, 07:16 AM
#28
Pole Position
Wish I had something to test amps otherwise I would have. Also one thing is preventing it from starting and another is losing complete power for a minute a more and then suddenly coming back. That I have never encountered before. Attempting to start and just not having enough juice to start while still being able to play the radio ok but attempting to start and losing all electrical power for that long to then randomly come back was just odd to me.
In the old days, you would get dim lights, and a slow cranking alternator. Now, when the voltage is too low, you just get absolutely nothing. Electronic control modules will not function at all if the voltage is too low.
Also, for future reference, if you are having electrical issues, the source voltage (in this case the battery) is always #1 thing to check thoroughly. Without good source voltage, ECMs and modules do some really weird things, and I have seen techs chase these weird issues, without confirming they have a good source voltage in the first place.
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