When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Headers stay on. I separated engine and trans 4 feet in front of the car and pushed the trans back home. Lol
This car would be a major pita to get torque converter bolts out in the car.
Support engine with cherry picker I forget the thread size on the cylinder head bolts. They oppose each other. Slide bolt with large washer through the chain link.
Remove driveshaft 1st .
Remove 4 trans mount bolts with the HF trans jack supporting it .( I put blocks of wood in between to protect the pan)
Remove the steering shaft. Make marks!
Remove engine mount bolts. Loosen the cradle bolts until you have a friend help you drop the subframe, just undo the 2 bolts of LCA to knuckle.
when you do this it's somewhat heavy.
Now the engine is freehanging and ready to roll out straight as nothing is connected.
You can see how my car is angled at this height, thus making it easy to drop straight out and being Able to adjust the height of the entire powerplant with the cherry picker.
Aside from the primed bumper on the ground, it gives you an idea of height needed.
If I pull a engine at work. I always opt to pull powerplants unless they're easy to mate in the car, though I'm spoiled with a lift & equipment.
The factory installs the engine and transmission attached to the subframe as a single unit. No reason you couldn't do the same if you have the right gear. FSM says to drop, not lift, so the dealers do it this way too. You have options for sure.
when Lexus pulls them they leave it connected to the subframe and then lift the car up and away, then pull out the engine.
i don’t have access to a lift so I will be needing to improvise. With the front end off it will make things way easier not having to lift the engine over a rad support
There is zero reason to leave the subframe attached.
you would just have to lift it back up again to remove the engine mounts, which is 2 nuts.
If I did this on a lift I would've done it the exact same way. I've done several 2IS engines this same way and this is by far the fastest.
Remember A/C compressor lines are not easy to remove from the compressor itself, however everything on the front end is very accesible and that's where the compressor lines route.
The only way I'd drop the engine is straight onto an engine cradle, which is designed to do so with adjustable "feet".
I can tell you most shops don't have this due to its large expense.
Even then it's a horse a piece, while a\c is evac'd you can teardown the whole front end, which in my time is 20 minutes ripping. 30 minutes milking it.
04-29-18, 11:19 AM
