Notices
IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Mark Levinson Subwoofer Issues

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 11, 2017 | 07:21 AM
  #1  
Onisar123's Avatar
Onisar123
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Default Mark Levinson Subwoofer Issues

Hey Guys,

I was wondering if anyone had this similar issue. I have a 2008 ISF and recently the subwoofer stopped working. However, there are times where I would just hit one of the speakers and it will come back on intermittently, but then go off again. I tested all of the speakers, and I don't believe any are blown. Could this be due loose wiring? I was going to take it into a mobile electronics store, and see if they can diagnose the issue but wanted to see if anyone had an idea, or had a similar issue previously. I am hoping it could possibly be just loose wiring, as I know to replace them they are pretty expensive.

Thanks!
Reply
Old Jul 11, 2017 | 07:41 AM
  #2  
Richy21's Avatar
Richy21
Pit Crew
10 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 107
Likes: 4
From: VA
Default

Seems to be common. Most will probably say it's blown or bad. I did read they're are places that service it.
Reply
Old Jul 11, 2017 | 10:17 PM
  #3  
Vitveet's Avatar
Vitveet
Racer
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 270
From: Nc
Default

Definitely go aftermarket. MUCH better subs out there than the ML sub at 1/4 of the price. Pm me and I'll give you more info on some of the options I have in my shop (few under $100 that'll out perform the ML sub).
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.

V.
Reply
Old Jul 12, 2017 | 10:21 AM
  #4  
Onisar123's Avatar
Onisar123
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 18
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by Vitveet
Definitely go aftermarket. MUCH better subs out there than the ML sub at 1/4 of the price. Pm me and I'll give you more info on some of the options I have in my shop (few under $100 that'll out perform the ML sub).
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.

V.
Thank you so much for the information! I am in Virginia, but would be willing to come out and visit your shop. I'll send you over a PM. Thanks for the responses everyone.
Reply
Old Jul 12, 2017 | 12:22 PM
  #5  
N2LEX2L's Avatar
N2LEX2L
Driver
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
From: Virginia
Default

Originally Posted by Vitveet
Definitely go aftermarket. MUCH better subs out there than the ML sub at 1/4 of the price. Pm me and I'll give you more info on some of the options I have in my shop (few under $100 that'll out perform the ML sub).
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.

V.
... question from the peanut gallery. Would the aftermarket sub be plug-and-play or does the M/L amp to sub connection need to be "modified." I'm also in VA so may I'll just caravan down with Onisar123
Reply
Old Jul 12, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #6  
sucabstunn's Avatar
sucabstunn
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: CA
Default

Originally Posted by N2LEX2L
... question from the peanut gallery. Would the aftermarket sub be plug-and-play or does the M/L amp to sub connection need to be "modified." I'm also in VA so may I'll just caravan down with Onisar123
I believe you have to modify the connection. When the stock ML system was working in my car the sound was perfect and balanced. I personally wouldn't get a different subwoofer system without changing all of the other components to keep the balanced sound,
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 08:04 AM
  #7  
stunts's Avatar
stunts
Driver School Candidate
5 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 42
Likes: 7
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by Vitveet
Definitely go aftermarket. MUCH better subs out there than the ML sub at 1/4 of the price. Pm me and I'll give you more info on some of the options I have in my shop (few under $100 that'll out perform the ML sub).
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.

V.
Just purchased a 2012 and have no idea what the ML is supposed to sound like. I will say that I feel the bass is currently lacking. I have turned off the surround at the recommendation of another thread and do hear some improvement, but still not sure what I should expect. I also have a 2010 Infiniti with a Bose system and it is much more robust, although much muddier overall.

Is there a good way to test if the subwoofer is active or doing what it should? How would/could I know?

Vitveet, where in NC are you located?

TIA
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 10:03 AM
  #8  
Vitveet's Avatar
Vitveet
Racer
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 270
From: Nc
Default

Originally Posted by stunts
Just purchased a 2012 and have no idea what the ML is supposed to sound like. I will say that I feel the bass is currently lacking. I have turned off the surround at the recommendation of another thread and do hear some improvement, but still not sure what I should expect. I also have a 2010 Infiniti with a Bose system and it is much more robust, although much muddier overall.

Is there a good way to test if the subwoofer is active or doing what it should? How would/could I know?

Vitveet, where in NC are you located?

TIA
Hello! Highly doubtful it's a connection issue unless someone has previously remove the wiring/connector. If you can get to the sub/wiring, just probe the POS and neg speaker leads with a multimeter (setting on 'ohms' of course) and see if it reads impedance. I'm not exactly sure what impedance it will read (I've tested some factory subs in vehicles that read 2 ohms in impedance, some 4 ohms, some 6 and some even 8 ohms.
If it does not read impedance, the sub is done (granted the wiring you are probing is indeed connected to the sub).
Another quick way to test if the sub is working is to take a 9v battery and quickly/briefly for a split second touch the pos and neg from the 9v battery to the POS and neg speaker leads in the sub and you should hear a quick "thump", verifying that it does indeed work.
90% of the time we disconnect the factory sub in vehicles and sometimes even remove them when we are doing aftermarket amp/sub installs with vehicles with factory amp/subs. Aftermarket will sound WAY better (if setup properly) and much cheaper than the factory amp/sub, etc. But I do get customers occasionally that want to keep a sub in the factory location, so we just swap it. Wiring is straight forward...no cutting wires is needed, etc. Just have to make sure you are replacing the sub with another sub of the same ohm load, otherwise you most definitely can damage the factory amp.

I/my shop am/is located in Oxford, NC.....about 20-25 miles north of Durham/Raleigh.

V.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 11:29 AM
  #9  
ISFPOWER's Avatar
ISFPOWER
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,236
Likes: 144
From: NORTH CAROLINA
Default

Originally Posted by Vitveet
Hello! Highly doubtful it's a connection issue unless someone has previously remove the wiring/connector. If you can get to the sub/wiring, just probe the POS and neg speaker leads with a multimeter (setting on 'ohms' of course) and see if it reads impedance. I'm not exactly sure what impedance it will read (I've tested some factory subs in vehicles that read 2 ohms in impedance, some 4 ohms, some 6 and some even 8 ohms.
If it does not read impedance, the sub is done (granted the wiring you are probing is indeed connected to the sub).
Another quick way to test if the sub is working is to take a 9v battery and quickly/briefly for a split second touch the pos and neg from the 9v battery to the POS and neg speaker leads in the sub and you should hear a quick "thump", verifying that it does indeed work.
90% of the time we disconnect the factory sub in vehicles and sometimes even remove them when we are doing aftermarket amp/sub installs with vehicles with factory amp/subs. Aftermarket will sound WAY better (if setup properly) and much cheaper than the factory amp/sub, etc. But I do get customers occasionally that want to keep a sub in the factory location, so we just swap it. Wiring is straight forward...no cutting wires is needed, etc. Just have to make sure you are replacing the sub with another sub of the same ohm load, otherwise you most definitely can damage the factory amp.

I/my shop am/is located in Oxford, NC.....about 20-25 miles north of Durham/Raleigh.

V.

i didn’t know you lived that close to Raleigh. What do you specialize in at your shop?
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 12:09 PM
  #10  
sc3dreamin's Avatar
sc3dreamin
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 209
Likes: 4
From: Delaware
Default

Originally Posted by N2LEX2L
... question from the peanut gallery. Would the aftermarket sub be plug-and-play or does the M/L amp to sub connection need to be "modified." I'm also in VA so may I'll just caravan down with Onisar123
Im wondering this too, what is all involved in switching to an aftermarket sub?

I find that the factory bass is lacking, wouldnt mind a little stronger sub for sure.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 12:35 PM
  #11  
liquidtek's Avatar
liquidtek
Advanced
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 637
Likes: 97
From: CO
Default

Originally Posted by sc3dreamin
Im wondering this too, what is all involved in switching to an aftermarket sub?

I find that the factory bass is lacking, wouldnt mind a little stronger sub for sure.
I ended up going this route
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-installs.html
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 01:08 PM
  #12  
stunts's Avatar
stunts
Driver School Candidate
5 Year Member
Liked
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 42
Likes: 7
From: North Carolina
Default

Originally Posted by Vitveet
Hello! Highly doubtful it's a connection issue unless someone has previously remove the wiring/connector. If you can get to the sub/wiring, just probe the POS and neg speaker leads with a multimeter (setting on 'ohms' of course) and see if it reads impedance. I'm not exactly sure what impedance it will read (I've tested some factory subs in vehicles that read 2 ohms in impedance, some 4 ohms, some 6 and some even 8 ohms.
If it does not read impedance, the sub is done (granted the wiring you are probing is indeed connected to the sub).
Another quick way to test if the sub is working is to take a 9v battery and quickly/briefly for a split second touch the pos and neg from the 9v battery to the POS and neg speaker leads in the sub and you should hear a quick "thump", verifying that it does indeed work.
90% of the time we disconnect the factory sub in vehicles and sometimes even remove them when we are doing aftermarket amp/sub installs with vehicles with factory amp/subs. Aftermarket will sound WAY better (if setup properly) and much cheaper than the factory amp/sub, etc. But I do get customers occasionally that want to keep a sub in the factory location, so we just swap it. Wiring is straight forward...no cutting wires is needed, etc. Just have to make sure you are replacing the sub with another sub of the same ohm load, otherwise you most definitely can damage the factory amp.

I/my shop am/is located in Oxford, NC.....about 20-25 miles north of Durham/Raleigh.

V.
Cool, thank you. I'm booked rest of the week but will check it out next week when I get some time.

I honestly dont know if it is even working, my guess would be no by the total lack of ooomph, however I will admit I dont know what I should be expecting. Heck, I dont even know what the volume max is. I read in another thread someone said they listen at 50, I dont think I have been above 30 (there's got to be a 'mine goes to 11' joke in there somewhere...). Fortunately the engine sounds more than compensate for the lack of good sounding tunes. More investigation needed!

Good to see what others are doing for options other than stock, thanks liquidtek.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 01:11 PM
  #13  
vraa's Avatar
vraa
CL Folding Team Starter
CL Folding 1,000,000
20 Year Member
Liked
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,669
Likes: 359
From: TX
Default

Just a thought

It could be previous owner of the car had aftermarket subs installed so they disconnected the ML sub, but forgot to reconnect it whenever they removed the aftermarket subs.
Reply
Old Jan 30, 2018 | 05:10 PM
  #14  
Joker4096's Avatar
Joker4096
Instructor
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 67
From: Florida
Default

More than likely the stock sub is blown. If you turn up the volume and adjust the bass up, they all blow.
Reply
Old Jan 31, 2018 | 11:21 AM
  #15  
s2kjer's Avatar
s2kjer
Driver
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 155
Likes: 14
From: Arizona
Default

Originally Posted by stunts
Just purchased a 2012 and have no idea what the ML is supposed to sound like. I will say that I feel the bass is currently lacking. I have turned off the surround at the recommendation of another thread and do hear some improvement, but still not sure what I should expect. I also have a 2010 Infiniti with a Bose system and it is much more robust, although much muddier overall.

Is there a good way to test if the subwoofer is active or doing what it should? How would/could I know?

Vitveet, where in NC are you located?

TIA
Sounds normal.... I went from a IS250 with no ML to the ISF with the ML and the bass output is a trash.
Great system for classical music with highs and mids but the lows are crap...
Reply



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:12 AM.