Mark Levinson Subwoofer Issues
01-31-18, 02:25 PM
#16
On my 2012 when I first start up the car the bass is on but soft, even though it's turned up the whole way. But then I go into the audio controls and turn the bass down one click and then back up one click and you can hear the bass kick in immediately. It will remain on normally the rest of the time while driving, but once I turn the car off and on again same thing.
Has anyone else experienced this before?
Has anyone else experienced this before?
01-31-18, 09:41 PM
#17
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Hello! Highly doubtful it's a connection issue unless someone has previously remove the wiring/connector. If you can get to the sub/wiring, just probe the POS and neg speaker leads with a multimeter (setting on 'ohms' of course) and see if it reads impedance. I'm not exactly sure what impedance it will read (I've tested some factory subs in vehicles that read 2 ohms in impedance, some 4 ohms, some 6 and some even 8 ohms.
If it does not read impedance, the sub is done (granted the wiring you are probing is indeed connected to the sub).
Another quick way to test if the sub is working is to take a 9v battery and quickly/briefly for a split second touch the pos and neg from the 9v battery to the POS and neg speaker leads in the sub and you should hear a quick "thump", verifying that it does indeed work.
90% of the time we disconnect the factory sub in vehicles and sometimes even remove them when we are doing aftermarket amp/sub installs with vehicles with factory amp/subs. Aftermarket will sound WAY better (if setup properly) and much cheaper than the factory amp/sub, etc. But I do get customers occasionally that want to keep a sub in the factory location, so we just swap it. Wiring is straight forward...no cutting wires is needed, etc. Just have to make sure you are replacing the sub with another sub of the same ohm load, otherwise you most definitely can damage the factory amp.
I/my shop am/is located in Oxford, NC.....about 20-25 miles north of Durham/Raleigh.
V.
If it does not read impedance, the sub is done (granted the wiring you are probing is indeed connected to the sub).
Another quick way to test if the sub is working is to take a 9v battery and quickly/briefly for a split second touch the pos and neg from the 9v battery to the POS and neg speaker leads in the sub and you should hear a quick "thump", verifying that it does indeed work.
90% of the time we disconnect the factory sub in vehicles and sometimes even remove them when we are doing aftermarket amp/sub installs with vehicles with factory amp/subs. Aftermarket will sound WAY better (if setup properly) and much cheaper than the factory amp/sub, etc. But I do get customers occasionally that want to keep a sub in the factory location, so we just swap it. Wiring is straight forward...no cutting wires is needed, etc. Just have to make sure you are replacing the sub with another sub of the same ohm load, otherwise you most definitely can damage the factory amp.
I/my shop am/is located in Oxford, NC.....about 20-25 miles north of Durham/Raleigh.
V.
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws...inductors.html
02-01-18, 01:16 PM
#20
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (20)
finding an 8ohm load free air subwoofer that fits there is not easy . you would have to cut out the subwoofer foam part and use that whole oem subwoofer as a bracket because of the mounting point. or you can custom make a new mounting bracket for a new free air sub. closest I've found that i didnt end up trying was the subwoofer in the mustang gt500 .
07-03-18, 04:15 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Just purchased a 2012 and have no idea what the ML is supposed to sound like. I will say that I feel the bass is currently lacking. I have turned off the surround at the recommendation of another thread and do hear some improvement, but still not sure what I should expect. I also have a 2010 Infiniti with a Bose system and it is much more robust, although much muddier overall.
Is there a good way to test if the subwoofer is active or doing what it should? How would/could I know?
Vitveet, where in NC are you located?
TIA
Is there a good way to test if the subwoofer is active or doing what it should? How would/could I know?
Vitveet, where in NC are you located?
TIA
I was looking (and finding) OEM speakers online for ~$360 being sold from a Lexus dealer. Was contemplating going this route if it proved bad. I decided to keep poking around though because I was getting nothing out of it so knew it wasn't blown.
Not sure if I will have to do this again and if it will be chronic. Keeping fingers crossed for now.
07-20-18, 04:08 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Ontario
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Ml sub replacement
Definitely go aftermarket. MUCH better subs out there than the ML sub at 1/4 of the price. Pm me and I'll give you more info on some of the options I have in my shop (few under $100 that'll out perform the ML sub).
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.
V.
Also to answer your question, 99.99% sure there's no loose connection. Factory plugs almost never come "loose" or "disconnected" by themselves.
V.
07-20-18, 06:42 PM
#23
Hey there, I recently purchased a Lexus 2is and I accidentally hit the subwoofer from underneath when loading tires into my car so I was hoping u could lead me in the direction of a subwoofer replacement for under $100 that's a direct fit withoutw the requirement of a separate amp. Or if there is a way to repair it. Thanks
07-22-18, 03:21 PM
#24
Moderator
My 08 non ML 350 and 13 ML ISF sound exactly alike. If there is a sub back there, it’s worthless. Where is it located? I need to see if it works and if it doesn’t, replace it. I expected a lot more, that’s my only complaint about the F. My wife’s old Chrysler 200 with premium stereo made my expensive Lexus sound lame.
08-07-18, 12:02 PM
#25
My ML sub has been shot for a while now. Don't intend on upgrading, just want to replace what I have since I'm not sure how much longer I'm keeping her. Any chance anyone has the correct part number? I called the dealership and was asked what my VIN was to check the "correct" part. I would imagine there's only one part number for a 08' ISF - right? Anyway, after being told price was $668 for the part, I asked for the official part number. Was told they can't give out part numbers. I'm throwing the shenanigans flag on that. So before I buy another "stock" sub - can anyone confirm that there isn't a VIN specific sub for our cars? Any insight or info anyone can share?
In research and on this forum I've found the usual PN that keeps coming up is 86160-OWD80... Thanks all in advance!
In research and on this forum I've found the usual PN that keeps coming up is 86160-OWD80... Thanks all in advance!
Last edited by zombeezISF; 08-07-18 at 12:08 PM. Reason: found part number
08-07-18, 12:50 PM
#26
My ML sub has been shot for a while now. Don't intend on upgrading, just want to replace what I have since I'm not sure how much longer I'm keeping her. Any chance anyone has the correct part number? I called the dealership and was asked what my VIN was to check the "correct" part. I would imagine there's only one part number for a 08' ISF - right? Anyway, after being told price was $668 for the part, I asked for the official part number. Was told they can't give out part numbers. I'm throwing the shenanigans flag on that. So before I buy another "stock" sub - can anyone confirm that there isn't a VIN specific sub for our cars? Any insight or info anyone can share?
In research and on this forum I've found the usual PN that keeps coming up is 86160-OWD80... Thanks all in advance!
In research and on this forum I've found the usual PN that keeps coming up is 86160-OWD80... Thanks all in advance!
Just don't even bother... Will blow up when the next owner gets it anyaays. So cheaply made..
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