overall camber options
FYI - one full turn on the tie rod equates to 3mm toe change on the side you adjust. You could get the alignment set to zero for street, and put in a half turn out on both sides for events, then turn it back before going home.
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Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 599
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From: PA
@Yri What I meant by coilovers for camber gain is if I lowered the front lets say 1inch it might gain me another -0.5-1 degree due to double wishbone geometry. (I don't know the exact numbers I just searched alignments for guys lowered about that much) After corner balance I'm not sure where it would end up though.
@Lobuxracer we run the same rules as SCCA solo. So I run in STU which allows 1 control arm to be changed or modified . I have the RR USRS rear LCA bushing (bearings not allowed in STU) and super pro bushings everywhere else on the car except for the 2 bushings on the rear knuckle. I also just started running time attack but classing for that is based off of modification points. I think I'll give the front toe out a try but toe out in 0.5mm increments. 3mm front toe out might kill tires on the street because I do still drive the car on weekends and to motorsport events.
As much as I'd like to get the figs UCA I don't think the open rod end will have a long service life if being driven on the street as well.
When the SPC adjustable ball joint slips what does it do go max negative? If max negative adds -1.5 that would theoretically put me at -2.9 or do you not want to run that ball joint on max negative?
@Lobuxracer we run the same rules as SCCA solo. So I run in STU which allows 1 control arm to be changed or modified . I have the RR USRS rear LCA bushing (bearings not allowed in STU) and super pro bushings everywhere else on the car except for the 2 bushings on the rear knuckle. I also just started running time attack but classing for that is based off of modification points. I think I'll give the front toe out a try but toe out in 0.5mm increments. 3mm front toe out might kill tires on the street because I do still drive the car on weekends and to motorsport events.
As much as I'd like to get the figs UCA I don't think the open rod end will have a long service life if being driven on the street as well.
When the SPC adjustable ball joint slips what does it do go max negative? If max negative adds -1.5 that would theoretically put me at -2.9 or do you not want to run that ball joint on max negative?
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