Hello,

I've been chasing a better option for adjusting front camber, the wildly popular one and relatively cheap option was the SPC Adjustable Ball Joint, they're around $160 and are pressed into our existing UCA (Upper Control Arm), which then slides on its rail for more camber gain. I disliked this option because twice the camber slipped on me during track day as the top screw requires high amount of torque to tighten it properly and I'm not saying this doesn't work, it's just I didn't like the option and not knowing how much camber I'm adjusting without checking it afterwards.

https://goo.gl/photos/cCsuVuTqNSrTe1as7 - SPC Adj. Ball Joint installed

I've asked around for other options and another one was available from Megan Racing, however being a car enthusiast for a while, there was time that Megan wasn't that popular and was rather disliked so this mentality stayed with me, so I continued to look for another option.

Then came FIGS with their prototype UCA they build for a Nurburgring car. After exchanging few emails with Mike and liking what I heard, I decided to pull a trigger on it, it isn't cheap as SPC or Megan, but the work quality was superb. Mike let me know that I'd be getting it in the next 4 weeks, this being a custom piece the wait time was longer, but I got it in around 2 weeks! Thanks Mike!

Installation was also fairly easy.

1) Take of the Front Wheels
2) Detach the UCA from the Arm that is held together by the ball join, in my case it was the SPC
https://goo.gl/photos/EAaZptoaAFWqMySs6

3) Remove UCA from chassis
https://goo.gl/photos/jY78ZAuL4hUa9gRZ9

4) Install the new FIGS UCA, tighten the two bolts on the UCA to 34ft/lbs, I greased it a bit for less friction
5) Install the rod end into the arm but don't tighten it all the way just yet, as you'll be adjusting the desired camber
https://goo.gl/photos/vnHjba6yuNtKSc3h8

One turn of the Rod-End is 0.3* of Camber and 0.27* of caster, which is pretty cool that camber complements the caster.

I greased all the moving parts on the UCA and was ready for adjustments now.

After getting it adjusted to a desired level, where I ended up with dead -2* of camber on the front, I tightened everything to specs and took it for a spin, it was very comforting knowing that this piece is now solid and wont slip, but I'm yet to try it out at the track. I'm also very happy to know that we have another vendor that carries this option and thus far, I'm happy with overall fit, feel and look so thumbs up to FIGS!

 

Thanks bbong for the review of these.

Just started modding the suspension, and have been eyeing these.

 

Thanks for the write up! This is something I'm interested in doing next spring before hitting the track again.. <sniff> It's gonna be a long winter
In the meantime, I'm going to a convention in Las Vegas at the end of the month.. I'm gonna look into driving a Porsche GT3 or some other supercar at one of the nearby tracks

-Mike

 

Any change in the feel when daily driving?

 

Nice! I remember when I started tracking cars, my instructor had a GT3 and took me for a spin in it. It wasn't as fast in the straights as the Evo X we were chasing, but when it came to stopping and cornering, he was right on his ***.

I don't daily drive it, it's my weekend/track car, but the feel of front wheels grabbing the corner is remarkable, if you're looking to upgrade this just for upgrade sake then I doubt it'll change anything over the stock one, however, when you start playing with your suspension and then want to dial in your camber, then I would highly recommend it, as it's painfully easy to do knowing how much camber each turn adjusts.

 

So at 0 turns of the rod end its the same as stock? from there it gives you -0.3 camber and +0.27 of caster each full turn?

Just trying to understand how it works.
You would still have to take the rod off the arm to adjust on an alignment machine though right?

 

I don't think if it's all the way in or out that's 0, middle would be around 0, then you either + or - camber.

You would have to take off the arm to adjust on an alignment machine, but if you go and do an alignment, they'll tell you camber for each wheel, all you do then is just twist it by that much to get it dialed in, and you can do it at home. I have a camber tool at home so I'm able to dial it in myself without getting a base readout.

 

Can anyone comment on whether you need to remove the struts to easily install these?
Is there enough room with the struts on, to easily fit a torque wrench to torque to the right specs?

From my understanding - if you get the regular centered bushings, then you'll be adjusting camber by spinning the rod end - which means that there's no possible way for camber to slip or change right?
I drive on pretty bad roads here in LA and my toe is constantly jumping out of spec - so my main concern is having to constantly readjust camber if I were to get these.

 

great review, figs are top notch parts and fully made in the USA

 

No need to remove the structs, just the upper control arm, that's about it.

If your torque wrench is a small profile, then yeah.

That is correct, there is no possible way to slip camber on this one if you are only getting centered bushings, I have adjustable and even after heavy track use my camber stays constant, one thing that I don't have to worry about anymore, but I do check camber everytime I hit the track.

 

Agreed, the quality of this piece is top-notch. Thanks!

 

Are you using an aftermarket alignment tool where you can set up your car at the track? If so who did you go with Ive recently stumbled upon quicktrick alignment tool . Looks like a great tool to have for ppl doing their own alignments

 

You have the offset bushings and no slip or adjustment after hard use?
Thanks pretty great to hear..

Thanks for the response.