2011 ISF Differential Fluid Change questions.
#1
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2011 ISF Differential Fluid Change questions.
So I've been searching for a while and I cant find my answers, neither I cant find a Workshop Manual for the 2011 ISF. So here it goes.... I will be changing the differential oil tomorrow and I want to make sure I have the right tools, I have 2 qts of Redline 75w-85 GL-5 Diff Fluid.
1. Can ramp up the rear end for this job or does it needs to be leveled?
2. Is it required to replace the drain plug washer? Part #: 12157-10010
3. What is the torque specs for the fill and drain plugs?
4. What type/size is the drain plug?
PD: I found this guide but its for an IS350... http://my.is/forums/f221/is350-diffe...ge-diy-381162/ is this good info?
Thanks in advances
1. Can ramp up the rear end for this job or does it needs to be leveled?
2. Is it required to replace the drain plug washer? Part #: 12157-10010
3. What is the torque specs for the fill and drain plugs?
4. What type/size is the drain plug?
PD: I found this guide but its for an IS350... http://my.is/forums/f221/is350-diffe...ge-diy-381162/ is this good info?
Thanks in advances
#2
Pole Position
1. Whenever replacing fluids you want to try to have the car as level as possible if you dont, then have the pre set amount of fluid ready to be added.. A Mityvac is a great
shop tool to have to pump in and pump out fluids.
2. Yes, you always want to replace crush washers or gasgets when changinf oils and fluidsas they bend, warp over time.
3. this i dont know but i would say to Tq it down to the point where you know it isnt going to get loose and maybe retourqing it in 30 days for good mesure.
4. this one i dont know because i just got my 11 ISF.. i actually had Lexus do this job while my car was in getting the recalls done. for 60 bucks i said go for it!!
That write up looks fine. All Diff fluid changes across all cars are pretty standard!!
shop tool to have to pump in and pump out fluids.
2. Yes, you always want to replace crush washers or gasgets when changinf oils and fluidsas they bend, warp over time.
3. this i dont know but i would say to Tq it down to the point where you know it isnt going to get loose and maybe retourqing it in 30 days for good mesure.
4. this one i dont know because i just got my 11 ISF.. i actually had Lexus do this job while my car was in getting the recalls done. for 60 bucks i said go for it!!
That write up looks fine. All Diff fluid changes across all cars are pretty standard!!
#4
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Thread Starter
So i completed the job. I ramped up the car on a sloped ground surface for the car was almost leveled. Drained all the fluid. It was a bit dark but it looked red as it came out which is good. No metal shavings whatsoever just some black goo on the magnetic drain plug which I cleaned, replaced 2x crush washers and torqued down to an reasonable torque so it doesnt comes loose. I tried to put as much effort as I did to make them loose. My torque wrench coulnt fit since the exhaust was on the way. It took out about 1.42qts and put back on about 1.7 qts but I had some spilled around while trying to inject the fluid plus I lost some more on the catch can when I overfilled so I'm assuming the real value is around 1.5qts . Once it stopped dripping through the fill plug, put that sucker back on ans called it a day.
Lol I did the exact same thing. Just bought a set. Thanks for the input
Lol I did the exact same thing. Just bought a set. Thanks for the input
#6
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Yes. Along with Spark Plugs, Air filters and brake fluid flush. Honestly I'm going to do sparks,cabin filter and that it. This car was well maintained. After i bought the cabin air filter the existing one was already clean.... Checked the engine air filter and its pretty much clean. So i'm just gonna waif until I hit 80,000 or something. Unless i can find a K&N drop in filter
#7
Intermediate
iTrader: (8)
So i completed the job. I ramped up the car on a sloped ground surface for the car was almost leveled. Drained all the fluid. It was a bit dark but it looked red as it came out which is good. No metal shavings whatsoever just some black goo on the magnetic drain plug which I cleaned, replaced 2x crush washers and torqued down to an reasonable torque so it doesnt comes loose. I tried to put as much effort as I did to make them loose. My torque wrench coulnt fit since the exhaust was on the way. It took out about 1.42qts and put back on about 1.7 qts but I had some spilled around while trying to inject the fluid plus I lost some more on the catch can when I overfilled so I'm assuming the real value is around 1.5qts . Once it stopped dripping through the fill plug, put that sucker back on ans called it a day.
Lol I did the exact same thing. Just bought a set. Thanks for the input
Lol I did the exact same thing. Just bought a set. Thanks for the input
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#8
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#9
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Really recommend doing this, I did this at 60k and it has all that goop thats shown in the tutorial... I did it by lifting the rear diff and puting the rear end on stands. I drained 1.4 ish and filled 1.7 lost some during pumping the fluid in, but it should've still been overfilled by .2 which wont hurt.
The tutorial shows the owner using some crazy tools to remove the fill/drain bolts. Dont stress yourself, you can use a simple 3/8 socket set with 10mm hex all standard sizes and easily have good leverage as well as space to get to all the bolts. You can buy the pump from auto parts store that screws onto the top part of the diff fluid bottle and pump the fluid in. I used mobil 1 this is actually a lot more fun than changing the engine oil imo.
I really didnt feel a difference either, the diff fluid was in good condition, the color and fluid looked great, it was all that goop found on the magnet that made me want to do this, its an easy job really...
On a side note, after the fluid was draining and the magnet cleaned, I kept screwing in the magnet in and out to catch out more of the goop as well as pump the excess fluid I had from the 2 bottle I bought just to get as much old stuff out as possible and it will catch more of the goop on the magnet.
The tutorial shows the owner using some crazy tools to remove the fill/drain bolts. Dont stress yourself, you can use a simple 3/8 socket set with 10mm hex all standard sizes and easily have good leverage as well as space to get to all the bolts. You can buy the pump from auto parts store that screws onto the top part of the diff fluid bottle and pump the fluid in. I used mobil 1 this is actually a lot more fun than changing the engine oil imo.
I really didnt feel a difference either, the diff fluid was in good condition, the color and fluid looked great, it was all that goop found on the magnet that made me want to do this, its an easy job really...
On a side note, after the fluid was draining and the magnet cleaned, I kept screwing in the magnet in and out to catch out more of the goop as well as pump the excess fluid I had from the 2 bottle I bought just to get as much old stuff out as possible and it will catch more of the goop on the magnet.
Last edited by k20trick; 12-21-15 at 09:14 PM.
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