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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 06:11 PM
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Default Suspension experts

Hey guys, I am looking for some advice on suspension setups that will get rid of this wheel gap. I know some people prefer springs, some coils, but what SPECIFIC setup whether coils or springs would eliminate this gap without running into issues with rubbing. I can roll the rear if necessary, I don't want to pull anything or get new tires. The car won't ever be tracked. Post pics of your setup if you have the same wheel specs so I can gauge what the drop will be on these specific tire and wheel sizes. Thanks!!!

Wheel and tire specs:
20x9 +32 245/30/20
20x10.5 +45 285/25/20

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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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Install your coilover of choice and adjust it until you like the gap and don't rub. The specific type of coilover isn't going to have any impact on rubbing.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LionelHutz
Install your coilover of choice and adjust it until you like the gap and don't rub. The specific type of coilover isn't going to have any impact on rubbing.
To be honest, I've never purchased coilovers, only springs, so I am unfamiliar with the spring rates and adjustability and all the other variables that come into play with coilovers. I just installed an Eibach Pro Kit on my wifes car after some feedback on the G37 forums from someone who ran the exact setup her car has and her ride height is perfect.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 06:43 PM
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You can do the same. Add some swift springs and call it a day. Drop will be perfect. I have coilovers because of the settings.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 08:30 PM
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If you're solely looking for a drop, then Tein or Swift springs would suffice. Both drop it 1" front and .6" rear. But for adjustability and a a more performance-oriented approach, I'd go with coilovers.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bnizzle87
...a more performance-oriented approach, I'd go with coilovers.
He already said he's only concerned about the wheel arch gap. Why waste any money on something for mechanical performance when the goal is visual performance? And no, you can't have both.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 08:54 PM
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Also, isn't it true that you have to have the coilovers rebuilt every 25k miles or so? Like motorcycle shocks?

(needless to say I haven't touched the forks on my '02 CBR with 16k on it...)
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 09:46 PM
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All shocks require rebuild when they are worn out, and most coilovers on the low end just replace complete cartridges vs rebuilding. If sprung properly coilovers can last a long time because there is less work in the fluid and therfore less heat and pressure to break down the seals. Swift Sport springs would likely be the best choice for your needs if you are not planning on doing anything else in the future.
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Old Aug 19, 2014 | 09:53 PM
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MisterSkiz- I don't think there's a specific amount of miles driven. Stress on the coilovers from driving conditions will dictate how long they last. If you hear any noises or see any oil leaking when inspecting them from time to time, it's time to rebuild. You do have to factor in shipping costs and wait time, so there will be some downtime when having the manufacturer rebuilding. A few of my friends who've needed to rebuild their Tein coilovers said that there was a considerable amount of wait time (upwards of four months), so it might not be worth it to some.
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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Pretty sure that the drop with swift springs will fix your issue. I think we have member here with a drop and the same wheels and tires with no rubbing. Ask to confirm but if you want to keep it simple you can just do Swift springs and you should have no issue. Coil overs are always recommended over springs but if your after cosmetics and your not tracking the car I think you should be fine with just springs. There are many good reviews and comments ere on Swift springs
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bnizzle87
MisterSkiz- I don't think there's a specific amount of miles driven. Stress on the coilovers from driving conditions will dictate how long they last. If you hear any noises or see any oil leaking when inspecting them from time to time, it's time to rebuild. You do have to factor in shipping costs and wait time, so there will be some downtime when having the manufacturer rebuilding. A few of my friends who've needed to rebuild their Tein coilovers said that there was a considerable amount of wait time (upwards of four months), so it might not be worth it to some.
Sweet, Thanks guys!
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 06:58 PM
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You guys are awesome!!!! Thanks for all the responses. Anyone know who the member is with the similar setup and swift springs? I have been sifting through the search menu trying to find it. I think I may go the spring route if it lowers it significantly enough to reduce the wheel gap. It's a pretty big gap in the front, the rear isn't too bad honestly but I would like to reduce it without rubbing if possible I really don't feel like dealing with the hassle of rebuilding the coil overs to be honest, I daily drive my car and can't afford the down time.
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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Found a quote from a member running a very similar setup in an old thread, he hasn't been active for months so maybe someone here can chime in.

Originally Posted by ISFJames
Lowered on Swift Springs

20x9 +35 245/30/20 ( front rubs on fender lining when backing out and turning)

20x10.5 +43 265/30/20 ( 275's rubs with rear fenders rolled) Will go 275 or 285 /25/20 next time.

You might need a serious pull in the back and stretch tires

I am running:
20x9 +32 245/30/20
20x10.5 +45 285/25/20

I am curious if I roll my rear fenders with my tire and wheel setup if I will experience rubbing. I am running 2mm less aggressive offset then him in the rear. The front offsets are 3mm more aggressive on mine, but the tires are a 30 series instead of a 35 like he's running. He said he was going to try a 285/25/20 next on his, but he hasn't been active so I don't know if he ended up doing it. My tire is 0.89 inches less overall diameter and .44 inches less sidewall height and 2mm less offset in the rear. In the front I'm 0.96 inches less overall diameter and 0.48 inches less on the sidewall height, but 3mm more aggressive on the offsets. What do you guys think?
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