mark levison sub
Sorry, search crutchfield for 8" free air subs.
http://tinyurl.com/3gx3u7z
http://tinyurl.com/3gx3u7z
So is that true about it being a different size?
I saw the link and they have some good subs, but which pairs up with our ML system? I guess its time to email crutchfield
EDIT: a quick search of the Interwebs shows that 8" and 200mm are interchangeable.
Last edited by UCrazyKid; Aug 10, 2011 at 09:37 AM.
I asked which one of their free air subs would be a plug&play upgrade for our subs in the ML radio.....
"Regarding the 2010 Lexus IS350, there is one subwoofer mounted between the rear deck panel and the rear deck steel. It is a special purpose subwoofer, and no location exists to mount an aftermarket subwoofer. I wish I had better news for you this morning."
"Regarding the 2010 Lexus IS350, there is one subwoofer mounted between the rear deck panel and the rear deck steel. It is a special purpose subwoofer, and no location exists to mount an aftermarket subwoofer. I wish I had better news for you this morning."
Come to think of it, I think I was reading about that in the GS forum. Would the ML sub for a GS be a different size than that of the ISF? Because I know I read several posts saying that the JL Audio 10" free-air sub is the best drop-in replacement with no modifications needed at all.
There was a thread if you search you can find the many problems that we run into.
Its not the width of the sub that is stopping us (8 inches) its actually the depth. The ML sub is about 2 inches deep, almost no aftermarket sub that is that shallow.
Another problem is that the ML sub uses very little energy, therefore the amp in the trunk is very weak. Any aftermarket sub would require a stronger amp, otherwise it'll just bottom out.
Its not the width of the sub that is stopping us (8 inches) its actually the depth. The ML sub is about 2 inches deep, almost no aftermarket sub that is that shallow.
Another problem is that the ML sub uses very little energy, therefore the amp in the trunk is very weak. Any aftermarket sub would require a stronger amp, otherwise it'll just bottom out.
This is the thread I got that information from, but it looks like it's from the GS forum so that's why I asked if the IS sub is a different size. In that thread they were using the JL Audio 10IB4 as a replacement, which has since been discontinued and replaced with the JL Audio 10W1v2-8, and those who did the upgrade said it sounded MUCH better than the stock ML sub even with the stock amp.
But if the ML sub in the ISF is actually an 8" sub then you would need to use either the JL 8IB4 or the 8W1V2-8 as a replacement/upgrade. The 8IB4 is an 8ohm speaker which requires only 75W RMS, and it has a mounting depth of just 3.875". The 8W1V2-8 is also an 8ohm speaker and it has a similar mounting depth, however it requires 150W RMS. So if you go with the latter you might need an aftermarket amp because I don't think the stock amp puts out nearly that much power. I have also read that the Image Dynamics ID8 V.3 is a very nice free-air sub, but again that one requires 150W RMS for optimal performance and it also has a deeper mounting depth of 4.5".
I don't understand how the ML sub uses very little energy though, because it's a 16ohm speaker which would generally require more juice to run than a speaker with less resistance. If you take an 8ohm speaker and hook it up to an amp that was previously powering a 16ohm sub, shouldn't the speaker be getting twice as much power since the resistance is 1/2 as much?
But if the ML sub in the ISF is actually an 8" sub then you would need to use either the JL 8IB4 or the 8W1V2-8 as a replacement/upgrade. The 8IB4 is an 8ohm speaker which requires only 75W RMS, and it has a mounting depth of just 3.875". The 8W1V2-8 is also an 8ohm speaker and it has a similar mounting depth, however it requires 150W RMS. So if you go with the latter you might need an aftermarket amp because I don't think the stock amp puts out nearly that much power. I have also read that the Image Dynamics ID8 V.3 is a very nice free-air sub, but again that one requires 150W RMS for optimal performance and it also has a deeper mounting depth of 4.5".
I don't understand how the ML sub uses very little energy though, because it's a 16ohm speaker which would generally require more juice to run than a speaker with less resistance. If you take an 8ohm speaker and hook it up to an amp that was previously powering a 16ohm sub, shouldn't the speaker be getting twice as much power since the resistance is 1/2 as much?
I am not that knowledgeable of audio systems; I just get most of my information from this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-overview.html and reading the post i find by cmusic. He seems very knowledgeable of audio systems.
The IS-F is exactly the same as the regular IS in terms of audio, I would imagine it to be pretty different from the GS so I think you would find more information looking in the regular IS forums.
The general consensus seems to be that the stock subwoofer is actually 2.5'' deep. This is pretty slim for aftermarket subs.
In addition, I think i read the stock amp is only giving the subwoofer somewhere around 75 watts. Don't quote me on this, I might be wrong on this.
The IS-F is exactly the same as the regular IS in terms of audio, I would imagine it to be pretty different from the GS so I think you would find more information looking in the regular IS forums.
The general consensus seems to be that the stock subwoofer is actually 2.5'' deep. This is pretty slim for aftermarket subs.
In addition, I think i read the stock amp is only giving the subwoofer somewhere around 75 watts. Don't quote me on this, I might be wrong on this.
This is the thread I got that information from, but it looks like it's from the GS forum so that's why I asked if the IS sub is a different size. In that thread they were using the JL Audio 10IB4 as a replacement, which has since been discontinued and replaced with the JL Audio 10W1v2-8, and those who did the upgrade said it sounded MUCH better than the stock ML sub even with the stock amp.
But if the ML sub in the ISF is actually an 8" sub then you would need to use either the JL 8IB4 or the 8W1V2-8 as a replacement/upgrade. The 8IB4 is an 8ohm speaker which requires only 75W RMS, and it has a mounting depth of just 3.875". The 8W1V2-8 is also an 8ohm speaker and it has a similar mounting depth, however it requires 150W RMS. So if you go with the latter you might need an aftermarket amp because I don't think the stock amp puts out nearly that much power. I have also read that the Image Dynamics ID8 V.3 is a very nice free-air sub, but again that one requires 150W RMS for optimal performance and it also has a deeper mounting depth of 4.5".
I don't understand how the ML sub uses very little energy though, because it's a 16ohm speaker which would generally require more juice to run than a speaker with less resistance. If you take an 8ohm speaker and hook it up to an amp that was previously powering a 16ohm sub, shouldn't the speaker be getting twice as much power since the resistance is 1/2 as much?
But if the ML sub in the ISF is actually an 8" sub then you would need to use either the JL 8IB4 or the 8W1V2-8 as a replacement/upgrade. The 8IB4 is an 8ohm speaker which requires only 75W RMS, and it has a mounting depth of just 3.875". The 8W1V2-8 is also an 8ohm speaker and it has a similar mounting depth, however it requires 150W RMS. So if you go with the latter you might need an aftermarket amp because I don't think the stock amp puts out nearly that much power. I have also read that the Image Dynamics ID8 V.3 is a very nice free-air sub, but again that one requires 150W RMS for optimal performance and it also has a deeper mounting depth of 4.5".
I don't understand how the ML sub uses very little energy though, because it's a 16ohm speaker which would generally require more juice to run than a speaker with less resistance. If you take an 8ohm speaker and hook it up to an amp that was previously powering a 16ohm sub, shouldn't the speaker be getting twice as much power since the resistance is 1/2 as much?
Also "requires" is not part of the spec. The wattage ratings are maximum continuous ratings, and have little to do with efficiency which is really what you want to know. SPL at 1 meter with a 1 watt input tells you a lot about what a speaker actually delivers and gives you a better idea of how it will work when replacing another speaker (assuming you know the same information about the original speaker). If the speaker is rated at 150W, then you'll never overdrive it with the OEM amp.
There are lots of other considerations, but from a power perspective this is pretty much all there is to it.
Some people will argue an underpowered speaker is more likely to burn out, and under certain conditions, this is true, but if the speaker is reasonably efficient at converting electricity into sound, it's pretty rare in normal use.
The sub is 8" diameter, but the bracket is actually more like 10". if you buy an 8" aftermarket sub, it will not fit unless you can get custom bracket. i will make some measurements tomorrow. it is very shallow, but the depth may be increased to some degree if you don't mind cutting away your trunk liner.
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Nolbi-Wan
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