Mods, please don't hate me! I posted in here because the F guys are more knowledgeable when it comes to suspension stuff, and I need help fast!! + we share the same parts in question.

Despite being on pot hole patrol here in socal with all the rain, I didn't see the pot hole as it was a few inches below water and not visible. Long story short I heard something like a pop a moment after (less then a second) that didn't sound like the initial impact sound.

Pulled into a gas station, filled up and as I was pulling out of the steep driveway at an angle I heard another pop as the chassis was flexing the most. This immediately makes me think it is related to my F-Sport sway bar.

I get home, pull into my garage, and boom (excuse my lack of vocab) my bolt that holds the end link has snapped, and the (endlink) is dangling (pic below).





My question is, I have a lot of errands to run before I can fix this. Will I damage anything further if I do? Or is it no big deal?

 

Its not a big deal to drive it, your going to experience more roll now that one side is disconnected but your not going to cause anymore damage unless that end link gets pinched while driving. You may want to wire in out of the way or take off the end link until you fix it. Just drive to the h/w store and find the same or suitable bolt and replace the broken one and you'll be okay.

 

Thats what I was thinking, but what about the clunk/pop in when the chassis flexes?

 

You should remove the end link entirely and tie the AFS bracket somewhere with the arm in the middle of its range or your AFS will be screwy. With the bushing end of the end link floating in the lower arm, it's going to make noise and scuff up the lower control arm inside the channel. I wouldn't drive with it like this until I removed the end link from the sway bar.

 

Its probably because the other side of the bar its still attached and binding under load on one side only. You could disconnect the other side as well until you get the broken piece fixed and if it still makes noise after both are disconnected then you probably damaged something else when you hit the pothole. GL.

 

One last question, does the rear suspension need to be free of load when reinstalling the new nut? or can I have the rear of the car on the ground?

 

The definite answer is maybe. If you can get the bolt through the hole and tighten the nut with the car on the ground, you're definitely ahead of the game.

 

I've had to loosen the two brackets that hold the sway bar to the car without completely removing to relieve some tension, get everything started and then tighten it all back up.

 

All done! Hopped on my bike and made my way through some rain and crazy puddles. Walked into Home Depot drenched. Cost me 38 cents for the nut and bolt. Wasn't hard putting the nut through the hole and afs bracket, but tightening was impossible. I have a lift at my family business about 5.2 miles away. Will tighten it on the lift in the morning.

 

You will want to check the hardness of the broken bolt and compare it to the new bolt. If you broke a hardened bolt, you're sure to snap an ordinary bolt.

 

I put my car on my lift and tightened it good. Thank you cliff & lobux for your quick input.

 

How do you measure hardness? Even if I knew how, the bolt is long gone down a drain and in the bottom of the pacific by now but what is hardness in terms of a bolt? I'd like to know as future reference.

 

If it is a hardened bolt it will have a number on the head. Usually 8.8 or 10.8 although the Japanese like single digits - 8 or 11 - I just checked my car and it is hardened, there's an 11 on the head.

Order a bolt from Lexus. It won't be cheap though. Use a torque wrench this time so it doesn't break again.

 

or you can also..

Go to King Bolt and buy an Automotive grade bolt...


Joe Z

 

What size is it? I'll try ordering it online..