I will be doing some dynojet runs tomorrow to get some baseline numbers. Any advice as far as preps or anything from you guys that have done it already? I guess the engine cover has to come off so I better take a look at it tomorrow morning before heading to the shop. The last time I did a run was over 10 years ago.

 

Preping wise, just prepare to bring some cash to pay. The mechanic will do everything for you. Just make sure you tell him to turn the AC, electronics, and any and all traction control off. Also, see if you can get additional information beyond hp and torque:
- AFR (air/fuel ratio)
- 0-60 mph
- 0-100 mph
- 60 foot
- 330 foot
- 1/8 mile
- 1/4 mile
These aren't always offered though if it's an older unit, the operator doesn't know how to do them or where to find them, etc...

 

Great, thank you Raralith. I will ask for that extra info. They're charging $100 for two runs so I guess it’s not bad. I told them I was bringing an ISF, but I don't think they realize what an ISF is capable of...

Anyone else with your experiences or lessons learned?

 

100 for 2 runs is expensive.

 

$100 for 2 runs? Wow! I paid $80 for 3 runs. He felt bad for me after I lost whp on my second dyno run so he let the car cool and did another 3 runs.

Oh, last bit of advice, make sure that you get 2 good runs, but the more the better so be friendly with him and try to see if you can squeeze out more. It takes more time for the setup than the actual dyno so try to get more if you can. My first run he did 5 runs, one of which got thrown out. The next two dyno's were 3 each for 1 of each got thrown out.

 

Okay, I will take your advice and see if I can get more runs...

So I was reading the dyno thread and it seems folks are averaging in the 350s stock. One guy had really high #s in the 390s and someone asked, "SEA corrected and Smoothing 5?" What does this mean?

The place I will do this at has the Dynojet Model 224xLC. Any feedback on this model? Old? New?

I have tank half full with 93 octane and almost brand new SP2s (stock sizes). Will the new tires, affect the run? And also correct me if wrong, but I should tell the mechanic to do the runs in gear 6?

 

SAE stands for Society of Automotive engineers. In my dyno run on my Nissan my 381 WHP SAE corrected is translated from 390 WHP uncorrected.

Smoothing is exactly what it is. It "averages out" you HP and Torque curve to minimize the peak and valleys. Smoothing is set from 1 to 5 with 1 being your raw curve, 3 medium smoothing, and 5 maximum smoothing.

I pay 65 bucks for 3 DynoJet runs in my neigborhood.

New tires means you minimize tire slip. No slip means you get the most accurate run.

 

Cool thanks everyone. On to the shop.....

 

Good luck. Keep us updated on how it goes. Try and keep a good documentation of all your dyno runs so you can get a decent understanding of how mods effect the car.

 

Keep us posted on the numbers Purdue.

 

x2. What mods do you have?

 

How'd it go?

 

Well guys, it was a very positive experience. The shop was nice enough to open for a couple of hours on a Saturday to accommodate me. We were short on time, but the results were as follows:

1st run – 355 whp with me fumbling with the traction control and shifting.
2nd run (back-to-back) – 344 whp with a friend who wasn’t any better.
3rd run – After cool-down and with 1 run under my belt, and following directions much better and shifting much smoother, I got 365 whps.

I forgot the exact torque values. I will have to post the dynojet results in the next few days when I get it through email. The printer wasn't working and we were short on time, so I did not come home with the dynojet printouts.

365 seem like a good number... By the way, it was 3 runs for $90 and not 2 for $100.....

I have no mods, everything stock. My goal was just to get a baseline before any mods so this was achieved I think. By the way, I wasn't in sport mode in any of the runs. It doesn't matter does it?

 

I will also get a base line on a dyno jet. Why does the engine cover have to be removed?

 

It was on a DynoJet. The engine cover was removed to find a place to ground some dynojet wire/clip. It was the easiest engine cover I have ever removed.....yeah, I know I'm a noob...