Hey all,
Purchased some wheels for the 2011 ISF for a good price even though I was looking for min 9.5 inch in 18s.
My question relates to the hub studs and if there is a minimum to the number of threads for the nut or number of turns?
I noticed the Koya wheel hubs look to be a bit thicker than normal which in turn shortens the stud threads when screwing the nut. I count 7 lines(threads) or around ~13mm on the stud as well as 7.2 full turns from loose to tighten.
Is this safe or will I need to go extended wheel studs? I have open nuts
Counted stock rims and it has around 8+ turns from loose to tight
Koya SF03 18x9 +32 all around
thanks
Purchased some wheels for the 2011 ISF for a good price even though I was looking for min 9.5 inch in 18s.
My question relates to the hub studs and if there is a minimum to the number of threads for the nut or number of turns?
I noticed the Koya wheel hubs look to be a bit thicker than normal which in turn shortens the stud threads when screwing the nut. I count 7 lines(threads) or around ~13mm on the stud as well as 7.2 full turns from loose to tighten.
Is this safe or will I need to go extended wheel studs? I have open nuts
Counted stock rims and it has around 8+ turns from loose to tight
Koya SF03 18x9 +32 all around
thanks
Rookie
7 turns should actually b about 10-11mm, or just shy of 1/2 inch, but you should b fine. Just make sure you torque it down properly. Invest into a torque wrench, even if it’s a cheaper Amazon version.
still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
JT2MA71
CL Community Team
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Quote:
still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
Over torquing by 20 FT-LB? I know torque wrenches have some percentage of accuracies, I add a couple ft-lb, but 20 might be excessive. factory spec is 78 ft-lb.Originally Posted by nepereziva
7 turns should actually b about 10-11mm, or just shy of 1/2 inch, but you should b fine. Just make sure you torque it down properly. Invest into a torque wrench, even if it’s a cheaper Amazon version.still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
JT2MA71
CL Community Team
close
Today
- Join DateDec 2006
- LocationWA
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Quote:
Purchased some wheels for the 2011 ISF for a good price even though I was looking for min 9.5 inch in 18s.
My question relates to the hub studs and if there is a minimum to the number of threads for the nut or number of turns?
I noticed the Koya wheel hubs look to be a bit thicker than normal which in turn shortens the stud threads when screwing the nut. I count 7 lines(threads) or around ~13mm on the stud as well as 7.2 full turns from loose to tighten.
Is this safe or will I need to go extended wheel studs? I have open nuts
Counted stock rims and it has around 8+ turns from loose to tight
Koya SF03 18x9 +32 all around
thanks
For a 12x1.5 wheel stud, minimum safe thread engagement is 8.Originally Posted by toie
Hey all,Purchased some wheels for the 2011 ISF for a good price even though I was looking for min 9.5 inch in 18s.
My question relates to the hub studs and if there is a minimum to the number of threads for the nut or number of turns?
I noticed the Koya wheel hubs look to be a bit thicker than normal which in turn shortens the stud threads when screwing the nut. I count 7 lines(threads) or around ~13mm on the stud as well as 7.2 full turns from loose to tighten.
Is this safe or will I need to go extended wheel studs? I have open nuts
Counted stock rims and it has around 8+ turns from loose to tight
Koya SF03 18x9 +32 all around
thanks
Quote:
still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
Wanted to go square setup so went with 18s. It came with 265/35/18 and I plan to use same specs. There's some gap but plan to lower the car and see if it runs. Has plenty of clearance on our brakes reason for the thicker than usually wheel centre. I usually torque my wheels to 76ftlbs.Originally Posted by nepereziva
7 turns should actually b about 10-11mm, or just shy of 1/2 inch, but you should b fine. Just make sure you torque it down properly. Invest into a torque wrench, even if it’s a cheaper Amazon version.still way better then overtorquing wheel bolts, especially with the size of brake disks as we have.
(Will save your discs from getting buckling unevenly when getting hot)
another good solution is consider getting 2 piece rotors from RR racing. You’ll save about 6lb per corner with those.
i assume you went down to 18” wheels for softer ride+ weight savings of unsprungvweight?
I torque mine down to 100 ft/lb though per spec it’s supposed to be around 80-90 ft/lb ???
lobux can probably give you an exact number as he keeps most of them in his head
good luck with new wheels.
what wire sizes did you go with? And if staggered, how do sidewalls look front compared to back?
also +32 clears your front calipers? Nice how close?
I thought our stockers are something around +45 front +55 rears?
how’s fender clearance? Any rubbing?
(im looking to go down to 18s myself)
PS, once you get a torque wrench and torque em all down, keep it in your trunk, and after a good drive (when things go thru a heat up cycle) it’s a good idea to double check torque again.
I was looking online and purchased some Aeroflow ET wheel nuts to test out. They looks to have extended shaft so I might get away with this rather replace to extended studs.
https://aeroflowperformance.com/af30...-open-nuts-1-2
If it doesn't work, I might go ahead and purchase arp extended hubs. Could I confirm the ARP IS300 (100-7715) extended hubs will fit direct? I couldn't find any specific for the iSF.
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-de...hp?RecordID=75