I have a 2011 IS250c where the top stopped (won't close or open) in the state shown in the pic. In the second pic you can see the trunk release / pivot point for the trunk lid rollback... and note the molding / plastic piece that has popped out. Any ideas of what to do from here? (It's throwing the standard "OP. Suspended" error when you try and open or close)


Top where it's stuck.

You can see the pivot point and the molding that's popped off.

A closer look

 

Try popping the molding back in. I will check mine out and see if I can better assist, Also, try turning off the parking assist sensors if you have them. 99.99% of the time when my top doesn't go up or down its because of the annoying parking sensors.

 

Hey Tanweerr12, I tried but it is not moving in the slightest. Interesting about the parking sensors... Im going to first move the car because it actually is close to the front flower bed stone edging. I'll take a look at that next.

 

For the parking sensors, every time i try to put the top up or down, the senor would go off and say something is behind me and it's too close so it cannot open. Even when there isn't anything behind me at all. Super annoying and lowkey embarrassing when you are trying to drop the top in public and it keeps freezing and you would have to keep open and closing till the sensor finally realizes there isn't anything behind me. Once I have turned it off, never had that issue again.

Anyways, I wonder if there is a manual way to close the trunk. Try pressing the trunk release button on the trunk or keyfob to see if it will unlatch?

 

Yeah, I tried everything I know to get it release, but no Bueno. I'm going to start looking at diagrams to figure out if there is a manual release of some kind. There has to be a way to get it close manually which will probably give me access to where it looks like it's caught.

 

Look in the glove box and see if your trunk lock button is on or off.

 

Has the issue been resolved?

 

Is the heads up display saying anything with an error code or anything like that? If it's not a simple fix like popping the molding back in, you'll want to pull the trouble codes from the engine computer. If it is refusing to do anything, there must be a sensor telling the computer to stop the operation.

The ripped up molding sounds like it might be a mechanical problem. I'm not sure if there is a sensor in that molding that has stopped the top from operating to prevent damage.

Also, I know that you are allowed to keep a small amount of luggage stuff in your trunk in front of the guard but I choose to never use the trunk. I choose to keep nothing in the trunk and always leave the top in the locked position where you can lower it whenever you want. I am always afraid that something could slide out of place in the trunk (any storage materials) and screw up the convertible piece without it able to stop before damage occurs. Just two cents of advice there, obviously up to you.

 

@yeehau , Not sure if this helps, but that "popped off molding" is actually supposed to move like that when the top opening operation is happening. It's actually attached to the bottom half of the trunk-securing latch, and moves along with the latch when the top is raised or lowered. I learned this when stopping the roof half-way open to install new trunk support struts earlier today.

 

One other thing I didn't think of. When I first got my car, something similar happened. I could not get the top to shut for the life of me. There were no error codes or any other indication that there was something wrong with the top. What it turned out to be was the wiring harness on the actual hat switch that raises in lowers the top wiggled a little bit loose. When I went to shut the top, it disconnected partway through the cycle. All I had to do was pop off the molding where the switch is at - you can just do it by hand if you're careful and not break the clips, and just reseat the switch wiring harness. Never gave me trouble again.

There is actually a YouTube video out there of the guy that shows you how to properly pop off the two pieces of molding to get access to the switch wiring harness.

If you have no error codes and everything else looks okay, this is a highly likely culprit.

Edit: found the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nsKWeSIcYwU

 

Hi Yeehau,
Did you manage to get your problem sorted?

 

Don’t have an answer- sorry. Just following this thread.

 

Unfortunately, not yet. I am in the midst of installing Techstream to see if I can get some codes. Wish me luck! I'll post what I find. Thanks to everyone for the great advice. I'm saving all this info for future fun and games with this IS250C. LOL

 

It's just the standard error you get when it won't close or open. No codes... Installing Techstream now to see if I dig deeper into what's going on.

 

Hope Techstream comes up with some codes for you

Very best of luck.