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Front Camber Adjustment

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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 08:32 AM
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Default Front Camber Adjustment

Have any of you found or seen different ways of adjusting the front camber on our IS500? The only way I've really seen is to replace the upper control arm and most of those look a bit sketchy. The RR Racing looks like a nice design, especially with the latest version not requiring unbolting the top to make adjustments. The only thing is I'd rather not go to a spherical bearing solid mount on the upper control arms to body connection. This is mainly to prevent excess NVH, but also longevity with the spherical bearing being exposed.

Any other options out there besides upper control arms? or at least a nice design maintaining bushings at the body connection?

I saw where at least some prior gen IS cars used adjustable ball joints in the stock upper control arm. Not sure about those being an option on this car or how well they hold camber setting.

Thanks for any help
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Old Nov 17, 2025 | 08:15 PM
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How low are you planning on going? Camber in the front typically isn't an issue......
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Old Nov 18, 2025 | 09:48 AM
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Stock height for now. Will likely add Swift or RSR springs later.

Mainly looking to get to around -1.8 degrees negative camber for the front tires. Balance street with track tire wear. These car stock front camber shreds the outside edge of the tire when pushing it and not even pushing it that hard, just fun spirited track and street driving.

Gaining negative front camber without adding excess NVH is my goal.
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Old Nov 18, 2025 | 11:13 AM
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I just added Swift springs and am between -1 and -1.5 on my front wheels without any adjustments. This also includes the RR Front Lower bushing.

I had to get the rear camber arms though because the back end really drops and chewed through the remaining tire in like 2 months.
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Old Nov 18, 2025 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ISV8
I just added Swift springs and am between -1 and -1.5 on my front wheels without any adjustments. This also includes the RR Front Lower bushing.

I had to get the rear camber arms though because the back end really drops and chewed through the remaining tire in like 2 months.
how does it feel under hard acceleration? mine seems quite loose. I need to get another alignment now that the springs have settled.
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Old Nov 18, 2025 | 05:08 PM
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I don't have any good suggestions for you, but I do want to highlight that I don't believe FIGS or RR Racing are appropriately listing the control arms.

RR Racing ISFUCA0001 should be listed for the following (North America applicability only):

2006 GS 300 RWD
2006-2007 GS 430
2006-2015 IS 250 RWD
2006-2020 IS 350 RWD
2007-2011 350 RWD
2008-2011 GS 450h / 460
2008-2014 IS F
2010-2015 IS 250C / 350 C
2016-2017 IS 200t
2018-2020 IS 300 RWD

RR Racing RCFUCA0001 should be listed for the following (North America applicability only):

2013-2018 GS 450h
2013-2020 GS 350 RWD
2016-2017 RC 200t
2015-2025 RC F / 350 RWD
2016-2017 GS 200t
2016-2020 GS F
2018-2019 GS 300
2018-2025 RC 300 RWD
2021-2025 IS 300 RWD
2021-2026 IS 350 RWD
2022-2025 IS 500

RR Racing ISXUCA0001 should be listed for the following:

2006-2015 IS 250 AWD
2011-2020 IS 350 AWD
2016-2020 IS 300 AWD


RR Racing RCXUCA0001 should be listed for the following:

2013-2020 GS 350 AWD
2015-2025 RC 350 AWD
2016-2025 RC 300 AWD
2021-2025 IS 300 AWD
2021-2026 IS 350 AWD

The important part here is that the 2021+ IS (including the IS 500 of course) uses the same arms as the 2013+ GS and RC, not the shorter arms from the earlier cars. If you buy the earlier arms, you will either not have enough adjustment or, if you do, you may have much less thread engagement compared to what the arms were designed to have.

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff Lange; Nov 18, 2025 at 05:11 PM.
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by enkrypt3d
how does it feel under hard acceleration? mine seems quite loose. I need to get another alignment now that the springs have settled.
Added those suspension parts and some new Michelin PS4s and have loved the ride. I think the front USR bushings helped stiffen up what felt like a wobbly front wheel. And the back tires hook up immediately now.

If you take the plunge on the lowering springs, just do the rear camber arms and the USRs and complete the job.

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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ISV8
Added those suspension parts and some new Michelin PS4s and have loved the ride. I think the front USR bushings helped stiffen up what felt like a wobbly front wheel. And the back tires hook up immediately now.

If you take the plunge on the lowering springs, just do the rear camber arms and the USRs and complete the job.
Yes I have the FIGS front LCA bushings and the rear camber kit from FIGS with Swift Spec R springs... I guess it needs another alignment since it has settled after lowering it.
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Old Nov 21, 2025 | 02:45 PM
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It's not camber wear but toe
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Old Nov 23, 2025 | 11:21 AM
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I got some positive feedback from the GSF section that the RR Racing front upper control arms did not make a noticeable NVH change, so I may end up going with those...and they have a sale going

RR Racing also confirmed they do not offer a bushing version. I will likely pair the front UCA with a softer LCA bushing, either Figs 80 of the RCF/GSF factory parts.

@Jeff Lange - Thank you for pointing out the part number/listing mismatch on their website. IS500's need the RCF/GSF version, not the ISF version of the front upper control arm.
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Old Nov 25, 2025 | 07:49 AM
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From what I read its the toe that shreds tires, not necessarily camber. Common misunderstanding.

Originally Posted by dmanb2b
It's not camber wear but toe
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Chewbrocca
From what I read its the toe that shreds tires, not necessarily camber. Common misunderstanding.
Originally Posted by dmanb2b
It's not camber wear but toe
Toe and toe deflection can certainly cause tire wear at the inner or outer tread block.

However what I am looking to correct is outer wear from hard cornering. This is from not having enough camber and the side force on the tire is actually rolling it over onto the shoulder/sidewall transition. Check out the sidewall of a tire and note the triangles with 1 corner pointed toward the tread. These are part of the Tread Wear Indicators. Additionally, general advise for track & AutoX is the triangle should only sees wear to that tip closest to the tread. When cornering more aggressively without enough camber, more of the triangle gets worn away. This is by no means a fact, just a reference point.

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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 07:50 PM
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You sir are a very smart individual and are looking at the right use case. Far more advanced than most. Also kudos for taking the car to such things and enjoying it.

Originally Posted by 303Lexus
Toe and toe deflection can certainly cause tire wear at the inner or outer tread block.

However what I am looking to correct is outer wear from hard cornering. This is from not having enough camber and the side force on the tire is actually rolling it over onto the shoulder/sidewall transition. Check out the sidewall of a tire and note the triangles with 1 corner pointed toward the tread. These are part of the Tread Wear Indicators. Additionally, general advise for track & AutoX is the triangle should only sees wear to that tip closest to the tread. When cornering more aggressively without enough camber, more of the triangle gets worn away. This is by no means a fact, just a reference point.
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Old Nov 29, 2025 | 03:51 AM
  #14  
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haha while I appreciate that, I know just enough to be dangerous that's why i'm asking questions and seeing what options are out there.

I took the plunge and ordered RR Racing R2 UCA. I did go with the RCF/GSF version, but got feedback they are identical other than initial setting of the adjusters (thanks for feedback RR Racing).

Hopefully no NVH impact and get more -camber, +caster, and better steering feel. We'll see
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