So I just replaced my steering wheel with a carbon fiber one from Elvin. I’m not sure but I think when I put the new steering wheel I didn’t center it 100% when I’m driving on the highway, if I hold the wheel in the centre, the car goes right. I have to keep the wheel negative 5 degrees to keep it straight. I don’t think it’s a alignment issue Csuse it was fine before.

is there anyway I can centre it without taking off everything?

 

Short answer...no. It sounds like you have it one spline off, assuming the alignment and original steering wheel were straight before the swap.
The other option is to not touch the wheel and go get an alignment...they will then adjust the Toe so the steering wheel is straight.

The choices are remove the airbag to access the nut that holds the wheel on or pay for a 4 wheel alignment.

 

okay the timing couldn’t have been perfect. This morning my FIGS bushing and rear upper link just arrived after ordering it 4 weeks ago.

im gonna get them installed Monday and do an alignment. So you’re saying eventhough I didn’t put the steering back centred, the alignment can fix it?

 

Another short answer...yes. They might notice after they are done the alignment that one inner tie rod is showing more treads than the other on the front.
This is due to the rack being slightly off center internally because the steering wheel is now straight.
Make sure the do the calibration after for the steering with the Techstream...assuming that you are taking it to the dealer. The calibration is going to be even more important in this situation.

 

yes, I’ll be taking it to Lexus dealer for the alignment so once I do the alignment, I ask for a Techstream calibration AFTER the alignment? I’m in Canada Toronto. So I’m not sure if they have this in Canada. I just wanna be as informed as I can before I go to the dealer.

 

The calibration is outlined in the service manual as a requirement after an alignment is done (for all Toyota/Lexus with electronic steering)...so they should be doing it without you asking, but sometimes the Techs be a little lazy...humans are human.
All dealers have a Techstream, if not 3 or 4 of them, it's basically a Panasonic Toughbook running Windows with a custom cradle (from Snap-On) and Toyota's proprietary software, Techstream...usually the entire unit is just referred to as Techstream for simplicity.
A gentle reminder to the Service Advisor when you're being checked in wouldn't hurt, to ensure they do the necessary calibrations when they are done the alignment.
The calibrations can be done literally on the alignment machine once they have finished the alignment. The entire calibration process should take no more than 10 minutes...if that long.

I'm in Ontario too...Richmond Hill to be exact.

 

ahh sweeet. Thanks for the info.
my dealer is Erin Park Lexus.

yes, I’ll def mention it to the advisor as a gentle reminder.

I also asked in the “inner tire wear thread”, once I install the FIGS bushing and rear upper link and take it to the dealer for alignment, do I just ask for a regular factory alignment or some custom values?

 

Stick with the factory alignment specs as a benchmark. If the issue occurs after then at least you'll have a baseline to start from if you want to custom the alignment specs.
Make sure to ask them for a printout of the alignment specs...it would be nice to see what it looks like after the new parts are installed.

If you're getting the rear upper links installed I'm going to assume the car is lowered, hence why you want the rear Camber back within spec.
Usually with stock suspension any rear tire inner wear is typically a Toe issue and not Camber, so the upper arms won't help with that. Keep in mind I say "usually" and "typically"...it is possible for the Camber to cause wear in the rear, but since it's not adjustable in the rear, then likely there is another reason why the Camber is out.
You can certainly reduce the rear Camber with the links on stock suspension.

You may want to mention to the Service Advisor that you would like the rear Camber and Toe to be equal side to side...the printout will confirm if the Tech did do that.
An obviously you would want the same for the front...equal from side to side.
Some Techs will look at the alignment angle and see that it's in the "Green" on the computer screen and not adjust it...being in the "Green" and being equal side to side is not the same...and the "Green" is a range, not an exact number, so there is still room in the "Green" to make the alignment better if not perfect.

 

ah thanks so much for all the info man. It’s really helpful.

my car isn’t lowered. I have the BC racing coilovers coming but I plan to install them next spring since winter is almost here.

I was thinking to just install the rear upper link and get it over with since I’m installing the bushing. Do u suggest I wait till I lower it then install the upper link?

if there is gonna be an issue having the upper link with stock suspension then I won’t install them till I lower the car, but if there r no issues then I don’t mind lowering it. I’m not worried about Saving money on labour because it’s my family’s shop and he doesn’t charge me anything.

 

If the labor cost is not a factor then you can install the rear links now and lower it next year.
It would be slightly easier to install the links when doing the coilovers, but not the end of the world.