My brake pads are down to 5mm.Has anyone just replaced pads and not rotors at same time? I own a 2106 IS 200 t F Sport.

 

I do it all the time, as long as your rotors are in good shape you'll be fine. Of course different people have a different idea of what a good condition rotor looks like.

 

+1, this should be fine. I'd say it's probably best if your new pads and old pads are of the same brand/type. For example I wouldn't go to a set of track pads if I was running ceramic street pads without also changing rotors. But I could be paranoid.

 

I bought the car in March 2021 and it looks like OEM pads are on car. Any suggestions about buying OEM pads other than dealership?

 

Personally on my 3IS with the bigger brakes, I was able to do two pad sets per rotor change. your results may vary.

 

Akebono ProAct is always the answer.

 

Thanks. I appreciate the information.

 

Hi, if I get Akebono ProAct pads, should be looking for a certain brand Rotor?

 

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I understand there may be some disagreement here, but so often I hear people want to turn the rotors, or replace them, every time they change pads. If you have rotors that are slightly out of square (not sure what you call it, but a surface that is rippled), or has some horrendous grooves, then sure, they could be turned (or surface ground) until they rotate as smooth as a dish. But many times I have changed only the pads on different vehicles and not been bothered by the many small grooves still on the surface of the rotor. The pads will grind down until they match the grooves and probably grind down some of the ridges a bit also. In fact, on my motorcycle, after 15,000 miles I turn the front wheel around to rotate the opposite way which means the rotors are going the opposite direction on the old pads. Never a problem.

My braking doesn't seem to be compromised and I still can change out the rotors on the next pad change if I wish. Of course dealers and shops will want to change out everything and/or turn rotors just for the extra work. Maybe there is some small advantage to the change, but I never have noticed a problem. I have a Saturn with 130,000 miles on the front rotors, two pad changes and still going strong with no turning.

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Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the theory behind resurfacing the rotors to remove excess brake pad material when switching pads? I don't know if it's strictly necessary, but it should improve friction when changing to a new kind of pad in particular. If it's the same pad compound - sure, no need. Even then, I have not been in that scenario myself yet. On my GTI, I changed the rotors and pads at the same time since they both were in need of changing, even though I went with OEM parts that should've been like-for-like with what was already equipped. On my 2016 Lexus IS, I never needed to replace pads or rotors in the 39,000 miles I had it. I did, however, have brake fluid done at 30,000 miles.

With "sporty" cars changing rotors and pads together is likely to be the default. With economy cars, this is not so likely.

 

This is exactly right, but can extend to remove any type of corrosion and to generally true up the surface. Another easy way to get pad deposits and corrosion off the surface of the rotor is to use garnet paper (NOT sandpaper) when switching pads. I've been doing this for years, especially when switching between street and track pads on the same rotor at the track (always the same brand of pad, but different compounds). Garnet paper can non-destructively loosen and remove pad deposits and prep the surface of the rotor so your new pads can bed and properly transfer pad material on to the surface of the rotor. You can do this by hand, or with a low RPM tool. Tons of how-to's on youtube. It's inexpensive (few dollars worth of garnet paper and a sanding block, or a disk for a power tool) and is easy insurance when switching pads. Also great if you're experiencing brake shudder due to pad deposits.