The 2IS had this exact same engine since 2006. Many are still running at 200k. They don't seem to have this issue.

 

So interested on following the result on this. Where are those owners that were saying using 87 octane won’t hurt your IS engines?

 

The 2GR-FSE was also used in the GS350 from 2007 through 2015.

 

My minds blown that someone would put 87 in a car with 300+ HP and an 11.8-1 compression ratio

 

Just to be clear, I'm am not saying the OP did put 87 nor the previous owner/s of the vehicle. But if you search this forum, there are lots of thread discussions about putting 87 octane on a 91 required fuel tanks. They are even bragging about it that nothing bad happened to their cars ( or maybe they were just trolling around )

 

Same I didn’t mean OP but I’ve seen countless threads about it.

 

I would agree with some points...and disagree with others:

1. Dual injection mitigates, not eliminates. - Agreed, once you have a gasoline engine, you will have carbon build-up...but you can take steps to minimize it (i.e. regular oil changes, quality fuel, Oil Catch Can installed, etc.)
2. The oldest 3IS 350s are now 5 years old, and most people drive about 10-12k a year - Actually some 3IS's are 6 years old, like mine...so anywhere from 60K - 72K miles...according to your average.
3. 8AR-FTS is dual injection - While this issue has been noted on the NX forum, there is still the possibility of customer abuse, as well as, this is a completely different engine family than is being discussed here. It only services to illustrate that dual injection does not mean no carbon build-up...which I think we all agree on anyways
4. I think if you drive your car gently, it never really helps you. - Agreed

^^ My point exactly. The 2IS250 had a carbon issue that was identified within a few years of it being on the road. If the 350 engine has been around 14 years and approx. 140-168K Miles, and we haven't heard of a carbon issue yet, I think we can safely say it doesn't have one.

 

Well I guess it's good I give my car an "Italian tune-up" once in a while. Although it does pains me a bit to see the MPG dip close to single digit numbers.

OP best of luck to you, hope you get this issue resolved and your car back.

 

Would you guys consider hitting 3-4k rpms occasionally at most during my commute "gentle driving"? I'm wondering if I should go into manual and hit 6k more often.

 

I would say yes. But sometimes traffic dictates that whether we want to or not.

 

That sounds like my commute. Perhaps mine's even gentler, especially in the colder months. Most of the time I might hit 4k RPM exactly one time during a single drive. But, I also go out of my way occasionally to take a good road home and will beat on it a little. I don't usually go all the way to redline, will usually shift at 6k, but I think doing that type of driving for a few minutes is more than enough.

 

I would push the car once in a while, I do it all the time and always try to fuel up at a reputable gas station like Texaco/Chevron or Shell only. Not too sure why this is but for Hawaii and Alaska, in the service manual it says to add Fuel Cleaner every 6 months or 5,000 miles. I notice if I try to drive like a normal human being, my mileage sucks on eco mode completely. Driving on normal mode and trying to get from A to B as fast as possible my mileage is better. But I can see this since the car gets better efficiency at higher speeds.

 

I just saw this posted today in another forum I participate in, where the last production years (2010-2014) of the vehicles do have GDI engines and have had carbon build up problems.
It is something those owners are interested in, as it is simple and doesn't require an engine tear down.
If you think you may have carbon build up, its possibly a cheap solution, and may be worth your time to check it out.

 

Great video for explaining what is happening.

Just my personal observations on the video:
1. The examples of the cylinder head from the Hyundia and Caddy show them removed from the vehicle and the intake valves removed...they don't specify how the chemical was applied, but I'm assuming it was sprayed directly on the exposed carbon. Reality is that would be an optimal application, but the point of the product is to not tear the engine down.Also, I'm not really concerned about the cylinder head area above the valve seat, the issue is the valve, and it's seating surface. Instead of the examples showing the cylinder head and injector, just show me a bunch of intake valves on time lapse...like before spraying chemical...one hour after spraying...one day after...one week after.
2. Spraying through a vacuum port on the intake is likely the best idea rather than the intake tube...that way the spray gets atomized and hopefully fairly eventually distributed among all intake runners.
3. The turbo was obviously disassembled to clean the impeller...once again, not the proposed way to use the chemical. I realize they are trying to show the before and after...but it gives a false reality of the after...no impeller is going to be that clean...you could eat off that one in the video.

Overall I think there is some validity to the product and I would even give it a go, but if you really want to sell it, just show me the real results...no need for the dramatic "look how shiny it is after" presentation...really, it's not magic in a can.
Also, I would probably do an oil change shortly after...all that carbon that loosens off has to go somewhere, and it all ain't going out the tailpipe.

 

Purchased my 06 IS350 new. Sold it with 238,000 miles on it last year. The engine idle was always smooth and engine responsive. Purchased my RC 350 new because it has the same engine as my IS350 did. Always used 93 octane and top tier fuel. Yes, I drove it like I stole it 50% of the time 😉


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