Dead 5 month old battery
That's what just happened to mine, it went from working great to completely shot in a split second. No signs at all of a weak battery, slow cranking or anything. I went in to the store and came out 5 minutes later, it was so dead the LED interior lights wouldn't even turn on. I jumped it with my truck and drove it home, turned it off and immediately tried to restart it. Same thing, didn't even hold enough charge to power anything at all. It was only a 2 year old battery from Lexus.
Most dealers are like that , it's bare minimum specs on their "dealer brand" battery. Take the free one while you can within warranty but as soon as they want to charge or even prorate you for a new one just get an aftermarket.
I found a place near me selling those noname batteries with great specs and reviews, I n business since the 60s. I'll never buy a battery anywhere else.
Agree with using the factory one if you're getting it for free - if you're in the market to get a new aftermarket one, I'd still suggest Optima or any gel-based battery. In my Corolla, I still have an Optima Redtop I bought back in 2007 and it's still going strong.
I think Lexus OEM battery is around 580 CCA. that's like bottom shelf material at any store.
Most dealers are like that , it's bare minimum specs on their "dealer brand" battery. Take the free one while you can within warranty but as soon as they want to charge or even prorate you for a new one just get an aftermarket.
I found a place near me selling those noname batteries with great specs and reviews, I n business since the 60s. I'll never buy a battery anywhere else.
Most dealers are like that , it's bare minimum specs on their "dealer brand" battery. Take the free one while you can within warranty but as soon as they want to charge or even prorate you for a new one just get an aftermarket.
I found a place near me selling those noname batteries with great specs and reviews, I n business since the 60s. I'll never buy a battery anywhere else.
That was my third Lexus battery. The first one did the same exact thing with 7K miles on the car.
Last edited by Tungstn-IS; Apr 29, 2019 at 01:50 PM.
pretty sure he resolved the issue about a year ago. not a bad idea worth asking, however, for someone else who is having this same problem and comes across this thread in the future...
I let our three cars run for 10 minutes today as we're not driving them much at all, to keep the batteries alive.
I did the two in our driveway first, then the one on the street, so no one could take a joyride.
I did the two in our driveway first, then the one on the street, so no one could take a joyride.
Signed up on the forums just to say thanks to everyone for sharing their knowledge on this thread.
My 2016 ES300h was showing symptoms such as the steering wheel and driver's seat getting stuck when getting into the car, and the car not getting into "Ready" to drive state. The battery gave reading of 11.6V down to 10.4V on different occasions. After reading this thread I went to the dealer confident of the problem and that it should be covered under warranty. They diagnosed the 12V aux battery to have a bad/shorted cell, so now the car has a new a battery and I'm happy that it was covered under the 4-yr/50K warranty.
My 2016 ES300h was showing symptoms such as the steering wheel and driver's seat getting stuck when getting into the car, and the car not getting into "Ready" to drive state. The battery gave reading of 11.6V down to 10.4V on different occasions. After reading this thread I went to the dealer confident of the problem and that it should be covered under warranty. They diagnosed the 12V aux battery to have a bad/shorted cell, so now the car has a new a battery and I'm happy that it was covered under the 4-yr/50K warranty.
My OEM one is still working after 5 years, but it did die on me recently and was resurrected with a top up of distilled water. I feel like it may not last too much longer, but who knows?
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