You'll see it around 10+k. Compare to the outer edge.
As far as grease, never grease rubber bushings. Could even cause premature wear. They should just tap on with a rubber mallet. If there is friction during install, a trick we used to use in the BMW world is spray windex on the bushing. Then it dries out once installed. Others use soapy water spray. I think the final friction comes from the center sleeve fastened down (just by looks) but i'm not completely sure. The BMW ones are sort of press fit. no center metal sleeve.
How did the install go? did it slide on to the arm easily?
Some people recommend silicone based grease as it doesn’t do anything to rubber, but I was talking about using it in the sense of preventing squeals. I guess that just polyurethane bushings haha. I ended up not using anything as everyone said I didn’t need it. The bushings slid on easily once I used a pry bar like in SpecOne’s video. There’s no way you’re taking them off or putting them on without prying. It was an easy install overall. What I find interesting is that the steering feel is much smoother which is weird. I figured it would get a little more rough.
Great! You confirmed this is the best upgrade for this car bushing wise. and maybe overall. now instead of wearing tires at 15k, you may wear at 20-25. but for this class of car, you are ready for a new set by then anyway.
Great! You confirmed this is the best upgrade for this car bushing wise. and maybe overall. now instead of wearing tires at 15k, you may wear at 20-25. but for this class of car, you are ready for a new set by then anyway.
Yeah I doubt I’ll ever go Polyurethane. But I am curious as to how those would feel.
Nice choice!
Did you order through MegaZip?
My order was only ~$80 shipped from Japan.
Be sure to remove the crossbrace (4 14mm) and the plastic cover after the crossbrace (4 10mm). Hopefully will attach a picture in full review.
Not shown in SpecOne video below. Makes the process much easier, since you are doing both sides anyways.
Be very very careful of the 50 N*m rated bolts, they bolt straight into your (sub)frame and when reinstalling slowly guide them in by hand first to not bind up the threads.
Or else you'll end up like VinDiesel crossthreading them.
I followed IS-F specs:
Note the units used, the person helping me pointed out my torque wrench was not set to N*m before I started or noticed lol.
(Don't mix match the units lol).
The AWD model is a little different including the Torque Specs. (The ISF Torque Specs are actually slightly different than the RWD model also. There is no large cross brace to remove and no under engine plastic panel (at least mine didn't have one). Also the LCA bolt was threaded directly into the cross member on my AWD, not a separate nut. There were 4 easy to access bolts including that small brace that connects to the large bolt on the LCA.
I agree. Most important thing is to HAND tighten the bolts back in. I found giving a slight push inward to the control arm helped align the holes slightly.
Additionally, the lower arm should be raised to about driving height before the LCA nut it tightened.
Everyone usually recommends putting some type of grease to prevent noises and to preserve them. I could be wrong lol. I’m not much of an expert when it comes to the lower control arm bushings.
You absolutely do not need to grease the bushing. Grease will have ZERO affect. The control arm is tightened tightly against the bushings inner cylinder. The bushing rubber is what does the twisting, so there will definitely be no metal to metal rubbing. Polyurethane bushings require greasing because the inner cylinder moves freely inside the urethane.
This was a critical thought I had from the previous thread. A few of the IS-F guys also noted this as well.
I followed SpecOne during most of the way but followed this video with ChrisFix towards the end.
If you miss this lol, just be sure to redo the torque process fairly quickly to preserve the long term life.
Raise car, untorque, lower car, retorque. Since everything else is already assembled.
TL;DR:
The surronding mount bolts, you should be able to fully torque down when the car is in the air.
Get the major bushing bolt (the 113N*m rated one) all snug or minimal torque. Then lower car slowly to preload (wheel mounted pls). Then finally torque the full 113N*m when car is on the ground.
If you can't get underneath the car when it its lowered, you can always jack the wheel up to simulate it.
The importance is to get the rotation into the bushing before torquing it down.
Good idea you brought it up.
Time to update my signature lol.
ChrisFix (watch the bushing preload and change when he lowers it (2:02 mark)):
I wouldn't bother trying to torque the suspension while it's on the ground. You'll have 2" to work with. Do it while on jack stands. Place a jack under the shock mount location, put a piece of wood or folded clothe to protect the arm and jack up to ride height level, then torque the LCA to bushing nut to spec. If the car is raising off the jack stands stop, because you probably went too high and your car is no longer safely supported. This will prevent your bushing rubber from over twisting when its compressed upon lowering. It will also assist with returning the suspension to the ride height position. If your on air suspension this is extremely important because the bushing may be twisting twice as far as factory suspension.
I wouldn't bother trying to torque the suspension while it's on the ground. You'll have 2" to work with. Do it while on jack stands. Place a jack under the shock mount location, put a piece of wood or folded clothe to protect the arm and jack up to ride height level, then torque the LCA to bushing nut to spec. If the car is raising off the jack stands stop, because you probably went too high and your car is no longer safely supported. This will prevent your bushing rubber from over twisting when its compressed upon lowering. It will also assist with returning the suspension to the ride height position. If your on air suspension this is extremely important because the bushing may be twisting twice as far as factory suspension.
Thanks for all your input, but I have access to drive on lifts so I just hand tightened the nut and then put my car down and then tightened the nut to spec.
The AWD model is a little different including the Torque Specs. (The ISF Torque Specs are actually slightly different than the RWD model also. There is no large cross brace to remove and no under engine plastic panel (at least mine didn't have one). Also the LCA bolt was threaded directly into the cross member on my AWD, not a separate nut. There were 4 easy to access bolts including that small brace that connects to the large bolt on the LCA.
I agree. Most important thing is to HAND tighten the bolts back in. I found giving a slight push inward to the control arm helped align the holes slightly.
Additionally, the lower arm should be raised to about driving height before the LCA nut it tightened.
Would you mind sharing your findings on the torque specs for both AWD & RWD so I can update my info?
