Need HELP Negotiating
01-22-18, 02:00 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Need HELP Negotiating
I would appreciate any leads on this, I have never purchased a car so I feel lost. I live in Los Angeles and currently on the market for a used 2016, IS 200T F Sport, in white. I have seen several cars for $27,988 all the way up to $32,000.
Sample Car #1: Has 15,383 miles and is 29,988. Is NOT CPO.
Sample Car #2 and 3: Have 24k and 30k and are also 29,888 but ARE CPO.
My question is, what is a good negotiating START price?
And, is there really really a benefit to getting a car that is certified?
If you bought this car, how much did you pay?
ANY LEADS HELP!
Sample Car #1: Has 15,383 miles and is 29,988. Is NOT CPO.
Sample Car #2 and 3: Have 24k and 30k and are also 29,888 but ARE CPO.
My question is, what is a good negotiating START price?
And, is there really really a benefit to getting a car that is certified?
If you bought this car, how much did you pay?
ANY LEADS HELP!
01-22-18, 12:17 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Many dealers in LA these days have no-haggle (or no negotiating) policies, especially on used cars. Are you sure you sure can actually negotiate? I have had zero luck with negotiations with said "no haggle" policies in Florida. These cars are very reliable, but a CPO will extend your warranty and give you two years of free maintenance. A 2016 should still have 2-3 years of original warranty, so you may not really benefit from a CPO. CPOs may also be in slightly better condition (paint, interior, etc) and are guaranteed to be mechanically sound. I'd say you're mostly paying for peace of mind.
01-22-18, 02:28 PM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you, you made a good point about it still having its warranty, I didn't think about that. I have heard that these cars are pretty reliable so I shouldn't be too worried about anything happening to it within the 4 years its still under warranty. I have a corolla now at 226K miles, and it has not had any major mechanical repairs needed. It actually didn't really need anything till the 6th year I had it.
01-22-18, 02:34 PM
#4
Lexus Test Driver
The market is flooded with these cars. Advantage: you.
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
01-22-18, 02:40 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you PatrixUSA, I went to do the search under negotiating and am currently looking through it. Unfortunately I don't really have anyone whose bought a car recently or who really buys newer cars. I just didn't even know what was reasonable to offer if a car costs 30K.
01-22-18, 02:48 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Don't forget cars are often priced in anticipation to a buyer asking for money off. So if someone asks for 30, they know its only worth 28. so offer 26.
01-22-18, 03:08 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Welcome to Club Lexus.
If you've never purchased a car, I would first suggest getting help in your purchasing process, either from a parent (assuming you are young) or from some other trusted ally with experience purchasing a car - as there are many variables in negotiating on a car that experience teaches.
Do a Search Titles Only search for "negotiating" in all open forums on the search page, there are many helpful threads you can read through on this site.
Aside from that, there are some websites that can provide you a starting point (like cars dot com) that offer average prices paid in a given market that may give you better insight into what others are paying and what a "good" price is on the year, make and model you are looking at. Good luck.
If you've never purchased a car, I would first suggest getting help in your purchasing process, either from a parent (assuming you are young) or from some other trusted ally with experience purchasing a car - as there are many variables in negotiating on a car that experience teaches.
Do a Search Titles Only search for "negotiating" in all open forums on the search page, there are many helpful threads you can read through on this site.
Aside from that, there are some websites that can provide you a starting point (like cars dot com) that offer average prices paid in a given market that may give you better insight into what others are paying and what a "good" price is on the year, make and model you are looking at. Good luck.
The market is flooded with these cars. Advantage: you.
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
Okay thanks! This is where I was really lost, like how much do I offer, everyone says look at how other ones are priced, but they are all priced the same, I think starting at 26 is a good idea too, as I just read somewhere to offer 15% off the price they have on there.
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01-22-18, 04:41 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Car dealers are slimy. They will do anything they can to pull one over your head without you noticing. Even the ones that seem honest have to be in on the shenanigans or they lower the profit of the dealership. Things to remember:
- Don't feel rushed or obligated to do anything. Even if you are worried that someone else will buy the car, ANOTHER CAR WILL COME. It is not worth rushing, overpaying, and possibly buying a car that has an issue you overlooked. Don't get attached.
- Fact check everything they tell you. If they tell you something that seems off, call another dealer of the same brand and see if it's true.
- When talking price, bargain about the "out the door" price, not only the price of the car. Otherwise, they may try to sneak in extra fees when you're doing the financing.
- Don't show too much interest. If you still want the car but they are trying to pull a fast one on you, just leave. Don't tell them you still want the car or that you'll come back. Just leave, let them call you. If they don't call back for a while, then call them back.
- Assume everyone is lying to you about everything, even the people who seem honest. They will lie about anything to make a sale. Don't take their word for anything. Always get paperwork that proves what they are saying (carfax, service records, etc).
- If you have a legitimate question and they try to dodge it by changing the subject, don't forget to bring it up again. It might seem small but was probably important.
- If it's a used car, make sure it drives straight when you let go of the wheel. If it doesn't it means it could have been in an accident (not reported on the carfax) and may never drive straight again. If the car has seen snow, check for rust. Check the tread on the tires. Check everything! Don't forget to sit in the back seats and make sure everything is fine back there.
Last edited by Sharmouta; 01-22-18 at 04:47 PM.
01-22-18, 05:04 PM
#10
I think dealers, even those who claim to be no-haggle dealers, actually are willing to haggle if you get up and walk out after seeming genuinely interested. I tried to buy a 3IS a while back from a dealer like that, we got to the paperwork table, I nego'd, they didn't budge, I walked out. They ended up calling me 4-5 times the next day leaving voicemails. If they car hadn't ended up selling that day to someone else, it seemed like they might actually have negotiated.
I ultimately ended up with a better car anyway. Things work out in the end.
I ultimately ended up with a better car anyway. Things work out in the end.
01-25-18, 10:08 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The market is flooded with these cars. Advantage: you.
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
Offer 2-3k less and be firm. Tell them you are looking at other cars (which you should be)and your offer is your offer.
Someone should kiss your butt trying to sell you a 3IS. These cars are not in demand. Especially in LA
01-25-18, 10:17 PM
#13
Like many have said before... stick to your guns! If they let you walk out, so be it. There are plenty of cars on the market with plenty of dealers who may want or NEED to make a sale. I've had dealers laugh in my face (literally) when I made an offer, and let me walk out.... only to call me back 2 weeks later wanting to accept my original offer.
When buying used, I actually use KBB to give me a general idea of what the dealer probably paid for it by looking up the trade-in value. If the CarFax states it was sold at auction, they probably paid even less than trade-in.
When buying used, I actually use KBB to give me a general idea of what the dealer probably paid for it by looking up the trade-in value. If the CarFax states it was sold at auction, they probably paid even less than trade-in.
01-26-18, 03:14 AM
#15
Yea I've had something similar happen. My example given was for an Infiniti FX35 about 5 years ago... sales manager laughed in my face. When I got the call 2 weeks later saying that they wanted to accept my offer, I told them I would only do it if that sales manager wasn't there haha
Last edited by Tilley; 01-26-18 at 03:22 AM.