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i'm looking to install some splitters and i'm looking into the nutserts. It doesn't look like there's a way to make the nutsert face completely flush with the OEM fender. i worry that using these, there will be a gap where the lip of the nutsert is. unless parts of the oem skirts are countersunk, i dont see a way.
with op's method, the bolt goes completely through the seibon skirt into the oem skirt without having a gap in between the two.
the nutsert face lip is not really a concern. you shouldn't be worried about, its very minimal spacing if any at that.
I used nutserts on my front bumper for my front Skipper lip and lip sits flush. If it does "space" it out it is very minimal and I see it as a way for the two pieces to "breathe" a bit instead of butt right up against each other and rubbing one another.
see photos below for idea.
popped some Nutsert to the bottom of the bumper so that my new skipper Front lip bolts on sturdy and easy to remove rather than the supplied Nut and bolt from Skipper.
PERFECT! that's what i'll be doing when installing my front and side splitters. i'm looking at threaded rivet tools online, specifically at this harbor freight one, do you think this will be safe to use on plastics?
PERFECT! that's what i'll be doing when installing my front and side splitters. i'm looking at threaded rivet tools online, specifically at this harbor freight one, do you think this will be safe to use on plastics?
yes that one would be fine, just might not last long. Also Harbor Freight ones are standard thread.
I tend to like to stick with Metric threaded nutserts since the car is Japanese.
Do note you have to use M6 or larger nutsert size (or standard equivalent) the smaller Nutserts will not be able to sandwich the thick plastic of bumper and sideskirts.
WIth M6 threaded, you can use your typically 10mm bolt you find around the car to keep in uniform. Thats my take on it.
yes that one would be fine, just might not last long. Also Harbor Freight ones are standard thread.
I tend to like to stick with Metric threaded nutserts since the car is Japanese.
Do note you have to use M6 or larger nutsert size (or standard equivalent) the smaller Nutserts will not be able to sandwich the thick plastic of bumper and sideskirts.
WIth M6 threaded, you can use your typically 10mm bolt you find around the car to keep in uniform. Thats my take on it.
that would be nice to keep everything metric. do you have a link to what you have?
what thread size did you use for your lip? m6?
and should i get steel rivet nuts? like these from ebay?
Last edited by dnasians; Mar 17, 2016 at 02:33 PM.
Those nutsert things look pretty cool, I had no idea such a thing existed. I do wish they had more flare...more "material" to keep them from pulling through. I put a flat washer between the nut and skirt to help distribute the load for that reason (can't see it because it's buried in JBWeld)
SpecONE that front lip looks pretty sick man, nice work. I want a lip in the near future, but I feel like the front of the car is already pretty low. You ever scrape it?
that would be nice to keep everything metric. do you have a link to what you have?
what thread size did you use for your lip? m6?
and should i get steel rivet nuts? like these from ebay?
I'll have to look link to tools I have. I have two types.
I would use aluminum nutsert for bumper like ones I have pictured. Stainless steel is a bit overkill i'd imagine and also it takes more force to rivet into place due to higher strength in metal material.
Yes M6 is what I am using I believe.
Originally Posted by Turismo
SpecONE that front lip looks pretty sick man, nice work. I want a lip in the near future, but I feel like the front of the car is already pretty low. You ever scrape it?
Thanks, I'm on Air suspension but yes I have still managed to scrap it at times since i drive the thing low still.
molding tape sounds a bit overkill since you already doing nut and bolt mounting.
The front 14" or so of the skirt doesn't really have a good spot to put a bolt into, so that's what spurred my vibration concerns. Figured I might as well go all the way with it lol
do i need to take off the oem side skirts to install the seibon side skirts ?
Just so were clear, seibon does make side skirts that replace the oem ones...
But assuming you're just talking about the splitters that this thread is referring to, no, is not 100% necessary to remove the oem skirts. You could just use self tapping screws. I removed the skirts to mount nuts inside them, for increased security and rigidity, no chance of a hole stripping, and so I could easily take them off and put them back on.
since i drive the thing low still.
