Non-ML audio upgrade
12-14-15, 04:03 PM
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Non-ML audio upgrade
Hey all just got my new IS300 and I didn't go for the ML since it was a special order only and I leased the car. So far I've just been disappointed with the sound quality, it lacks depth and clarity. Being that I leased the car I don't want to invest anything major however has anyone upgraded the system through just a sub or anything else relatively minor? I want to know if its even worth messing with or if I should just leave it alone. Any input would be great!
Thanks
Thanks
12-14-15, 04:07 PM
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haha depends how much work you want to put into installing speakers in?
Since Im lazy, I would just buy a wireless bluetooth speaker and be happy with that.
Like a UE boom or something
Since Im lazy, I would just buy a wireless bluetooth speaker and be happy with that.
Like a UE boom or something
12-14-15, 04:39 PM
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If you want some extra punch with minimal intrusion, I'd get a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10. It's a fully loaded slim enclosure with a 10" sub and 300-watt amp and you can tap into your rear speakers for audio. You'll need an amp install kit (power and remote wires) and probably a shop to do the install unless you've done audio work before. Crutchfield is having a holiday sale, check their site for specs and prices; there's a 12-inch model as well.
12-14-15, 04:58 PM
#4
Don't waste your money replacing the interior speakers they are already very good. Here is the problem the car lacks bass because the factory sub is under powered and complete trash. When you set the bass on the stereo to the middle or higher it muddies the sound coming from all of the interior speakers and makes the car sound terrible. Solution? Add a sub woofer and amplifier, then turn down the bass settings to 2 bass boost at the amp to your new 8" sub. That is what I did and I can tell you my car sounds FANTASTIC. Here is how I went about it.
I bought this
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter
Finally an 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going to the factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carpet cardboard looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the driver's side of the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
I bought this
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter
Finally an 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going to the factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carpet cardboard looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the driver's side of the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
Last edited by manchild; 07-17-17 at 07:00 PM.
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shiftace (06-12-18)
12-14-15, 07:08 PM
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If you want some extra punch with minimal intrusion, I'd get a Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10. It's a fully loaded slim enclosure with a 10" sub and 300-watt amp and you can tap into your rear speakers for audio. You'll need an amp install kit (power and remote wires) and probably a shop to do the install unless you've done audio work before. Crutchfield is having a holiday sale, check their site for specs and prices; there's a 12-inch model as well.
Don't waste your money replacing the interior speakers they are already very good. Here is the problem the car lacks bass because the factory sub is under powered and complete trash. When you set the bass on the stereo to the middle or higher it muddies the sound coming from all of the interior speakers and makes the car sound terrible. Solution? Add a sub woofer and amplifier, then turn down the bass settings to 2 bass boost at the amp to your new 8" sub. That is what I did and I can tell you my car sounds FANTASTIC. Here is how I went about it.
I bought this subwoofer
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can go with this amp
This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this amp this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with scotch double side tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter this thing
Finally an install kit 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going ot he factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carper looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
I bought this subwoofer
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can go with this amp
This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this amp this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with scotch double side tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter this thing
Finally an install kit 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going ot he factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carper looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
12-14-15, 07:13 PM
#7
Looking into this as an option, def easier having it all in one unit. Thanks!
Thanks for the great info, I'm not one to start messing with all that in terms of self-installation but those prices are right in line so if I can find someone to install it for me I'll likely go that route. I like the idea of just swapping the old sub with the new and tucking the amp away in the trunk. Is the remote wired to the front of the car for adjustment? Also beyond the low end does that improve the clarity at all?
Thanks for the great info, I'm not one to start messing with all that in terms of self-installation but those prices are right in line so if I can find someone to install it for me I'll likely go that route. I like the idea of just swapping the old sub with the new and tucking the amp away in the trunk. Is the remote wired to the front of the car for adjustment? Also beyond the low end does that improve the clarity at all?
Trust me when I tell you the clarity will go way up if you turn the bass down to 2 or less in the setting for the sound and turn the mid up 1 click, leave the treble in the middle. Also turn off auto sound leveler I don't know what it does but I know my sound was much better and the separation was much better with it off. The mid speakers in your door just cant do bass well so when the bass is turned up its destroying the clarity of the system.
If you meant the remote turn on for the amp that is there so the amp does not stay turned on 100% of the time and kill your battery. I thought the best place to put it was on ING2 because when you press the start button twice then the amp will turn on. There is no remote turn on from our factory stereo, or at least I could not find one.
Any good stereo shop can do the install for you in about 3 hours start to finish maybe. The time is really consumed taking the interior of the car apart to hide all the wires under the carpet and insulating everything.
Last edited by manchild; 12-14-15 at 07:21 PM.
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12-16-15, 11:47 AM
#8
I'm not sure if this will help alleviate any sound quality concerns, but I've noticed with many of the cars I've had in the past there is a "break-in" period where the speakers will sound better after about 10 - 15 hours of use. I noticed a difference after about that amount of time.
12-16-15, 01:26 PM
#9
Pole Position
I'm not sure if this will help alleviate any sound quality concerns, but I've noticed with many of the cars I've had in the past there is a "break-in" period where the speakers will sound better after about 10 - 15 hours of use. I noticed a difference after about that amount of time.
http://www.audioholics.com/loudspeak...act-or-fiction
12-16-15, 11:40 PM
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Don't waste your money replacing the interior speakers they are already very good. Here is the problem the car lacks bass because the factory sub is under powered and complete trash. When you set the bass on the stereo to the middle or higher it muddies the sound coming from all of the interior speakers and makes the car sound terrible. Solution? Add a sub woofer and amplifier, then turn down the bass settings to 2 bass boost at the amp to your new 8" sub. That is what I did and I can tell you my car sounds FANTASTIC. Here is how I went about it.
I bought this subwoofer
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can go with this amp
This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this amp this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with scotch double side tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter this thing
Finally an install kit 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going ot he factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carper looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
I bought this subwoofer
I went with that sub because I did not want to lose any trunk space or deal with making a custom corner fit box. I figured there is a perfect space at the parcel shelf where the factory sub was why not use it and retain a totally stock look?.
Then I got an amp. You can go with this amp
This is the one I got because it already had the remote and it fits perfectly in the trunk side pocket or mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf and it is underrated in the specs. The amp I got in the mail was listed at 500 watts rms but tested and rated at 640 watts rms. who doesn't want to get more than they paid for?
You can also go with this amp this one is much more compact and it also fits in that little pocket in the side of the trunk on the left side under the little shelf. Its the opposite side of where the factory amp sits on the driver side of the trunk. Mount the amp to the floor of that pocket with scotch double side tape or sheet metal screws or just pack the area with high density foam to hold the amp in place and protect it from shock.
You will also need a line converter this thing
Finally an install kit 8 guage should be fine for one 8' sub
You should probably get some foam tape and some dynamat as well because you want to do this job once and not make the same mistake I made and have to take it apart again to insulate everything and stop the rattles.
If you have some skill installing amps and subs then you should have no trouble running the wires and remote turn-on. I tapped into IGN2 at the fuse box for my remote turn-on for the amp. When I mounted my subwoofer I mounted it in the factory location but I mounted it from the underside and bolted it in. Also tap into the wires going to the factory sub NOT the ones going into the factory amp. The ones going ot he factory sub are a much stronger signal and they work just fine with the line out converter. Also I found it convenient to use an RCA cable with right angle connections. I put foam tape on the top of the sub to act as a gasket and also under the sub where it bumps into the cover on the roof of the trunk you know that carper looking thing. I put my amp in the little pocket in the trunk and then I insulated 100% of the parcel shelf then I put rubber tape on all of the wires and the edges of the parcel shelf I also added two screws to the license plate along with a some rubber tape on the back of the plate.
If you want more information or a step by step guide hit me up. I will not take my car apart and take pictures for you though because my wife will kill me if I spend any more time working on the car.
Last edited by FsportJ; 12-16-15 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Spellcheck
12-20-15, 03:50 PM
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I agree the factory system is fine it just needs some help on the bottom end. I installed a JL Audio HO112-W6v3 sub and HD750/1 Amp with Remote Control ****. This matched with the factory system sounds incredible.
http://www.jlaudio.com/ho112-w6v3-ca...-systems-93315
http://www.jlaudio.com/ho112-w6v3-ca...-systems-93315
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