Had some issues with my trans on my 2007 IS350 so I brought it in for some work, and it was solenoid work so I'm assuming they had to disconnect the battery for a considerable amount of time while performing the work. After I received the car, it was fine for a bit until I noticed a check engine light and VSC light, so I scanned for codes and got P2195 o2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1. Impatient me thought it was something I could clear and it would go away on its own, and I don't think the shop would help me fix it if I brought it back because I can't prove they somehow caused the issue. Does anyone know if this could be from them disconnecting the battery or what the cause might be? Any parts I should change or fix so this code goes away? I've tried clearing the codes and it'll drive okay without a CEL but will have the same pending code at the end of the drive. When I drive it the next time, it'll be okay but will eventually show CEL and a stored code of P2195. I've been in a cycle of clearing everytime I start, and it will just eventually pop up the next time I drive. It is important to mention I was not having any o2 sensor related codes or issues before I gave the car to the shop for the change of the solenoid. Any help would be great, thanks!

 

If your scan tool can read live data. What do the fuel trims look like at idle, and cruising speeds?

Post shorts and long terms.

 

What abreviations would I look for on the live data menu?

 

b1 stft
b1 ltft
b2 stft
b2 ltft

 

here are some snapshots i recorded while driving, some numbers do move around a little while cruising but i don’t really understand fuel trims

 

Can you also capture the O2 sensor live data? Both banks and both rear and front O2 sensors.

It’s possible the technician disconnected one or more front O2 sensors, ripped an O2 sensor wire or both.

 

Ya if they unbolted the mid pipe and held it up by the wires, that could be a problem.

 

I don’t think they would’ve touched the o2 sensors since to change the solenoid you just have to remove the valve body, which all you have to do is take off the fluid pan and filter if I’m not mistaken

 

I recently did my own trans drain and fill and changed the filter, so where I could see the valve body and solenoid but did not want to attempt to remove it myself, would they have needed to remove the exhaust or touch any o2 sensors to do that?

 

It's a word in the dictionary called "sabotage" - deliberately destroy, damage, or obstruct (something).

I'm am no expert at all but I have been under my 08 IS350 several times (did tranny drain/fill 3 times in a month) and I don't think you need to touch/remove anything other than the tranny pan. I have seen a few videos of it and none of them touched anything, other than parts inside that pan covered area.

Future task: I think the jolting from 1st to 2nd and a little from 2nd to 3rd gear when shifting is a sign of a soon-to-fail solenoid(no CEL yet but why should I wait), but I need to do more research before dropping the pan. I'm not going to trust any shop so I will do it myself. Will slap a new filter, too while I'm on it.

 

If you snap the throttle at idle do any of the LTFTs go rich after letting off the pedal? All shorts and longs should be going rich.

 

Well they replaced a solenoid for me since it seemed too technical for me and I didn’t want to attempt it myself, risking getting stranded. It’s a bunch of electrical connectors for the solenoids so I’m assuming they had to disconnect the battery while working on it, if I’m not mistaken. Was wondering if this had to do with anything. I saw on another post of lexus owners club that the same thing happened, but it was from years ago and no replies, so I’m stumped. Was also wondering if this was also maybe just a coincidence that it went out from old age? Not sure anymore

 

Are you talking about the Long Fuel trims? If so, I can have another look at it tomorrow since I didn’t have a chance to today

 

I know for a fact my battery was disconnected for a long time because I had to do the window recalibration, so was wondering if this somehow made the code and CEL pop up?

 

It shouldn't be a problem, but the battery is so close to the firewall, and hood strut. Using a too long wrench. Its easily possible to make contact. Yes try to rev it idle to see if the trims go negative

What's weird is at idle your long terms are lean, and on cruise they creep up slightly. I'd still look for a slight vacuum leak. Inspect every hose after MAF sensor that feeds into the intake manifold.