When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got 2 P0100 & P0441 Codes on 07 Lexus IS250. CEL - ABS - AFS - Trac Control & VSC Lights are on
Shop Quoted me $1100 to fix the:
- VVT Solenoid/OCV
- Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor
&
- Gas Cap
To resolve all my dash lights.
Trying to find a link to see how difficult it is to replace the VVT Solenoids. Can anyone point me in the right direction please & thank you.
Also, is it worth trying to just replace Gas Cap and see if the it resolves all the lights, like it has for most? I know it wont fix the AFS Light but I dont think the CEL will come on because of that so I can pass emissions and address the AFS later.
Those codes are for MAF, and the Evap incorrect purge flow.
Where did they get the OCV's from?
Did you work on the intake area recently on the car?
@MikeFig82 Hey Mike, I did my spark plugs maybe 4 months ago. These lights have been on there since, just getting around to it. I did read that these codes are related to MAF & Gas cap, so I was going to go ahead and clean my MAF & Throttle Body, do an injector cleaning with little amounts of seafoam & then order an OEM Gas cap for evap and see what that does for the dash lights..
Bad/unsecured/loose gas cap for P0441
Vacuum leak on P0100 (or leak from the intake system area.
Got these very same codes when putting the RR racing CF intake on my car and usually pops-out right after every tank fill.
Removed the CF intake and life goes on without a CEL.
@s3v3n Awesome, thank you for this info ! Been hearing a lot that gas cap replacement can easily solve that code & as for the P0100, as I tol @MikeFig82 above, I recently worked on my spark plugs, so had to remove intake. New gaskets of course but I did have to put a bad screw back in because couldnt find a replacement a nearest auto shops.. wonder if this mean intake did not seal properly and doesn't have vacuum tight seal causing a leak?
@MikeFig82 Hey Mike, I did my spark plugs maybe 4 months ago. These lights have been on there since, just getting around to it. I did read that these codes are related to MAF & Gas cap, so I was going to go ahead and clean my MAF & Throttle Body, do an injector cleaning with little amounts of seafoam & then order an OEM Gas cap for evap and see what that does for the dash lights..
Ok I see. Go back and make sure the intake hose is on correctly. While at it make sure the hose that runs under the intake hose didn't become disconnected from the hard line. Trace it to the body near the body of the shock mounts. This ID the purge valve hose that draws vapors from the gas tank.
Make sure the intake hose clamp is not too tight on the air box lid. Going to town on it doesn't provide a better seal. It will just crush the outlet pipe. You just want to snug it up a tad. Same for the TB side. The rubber once hot will shrink and provide a good seal. Last check the small hose from valve cover breather to intake make sure it's clamped on good too.
Once all said and done I'd reset the fuel trims as well. Since it's been getting bad data for awhile.
Clean the MAF with CRC cleaner only.
Bad screw on intake manifold? Which area?
Last edited by MikeFig82; Apr 12, 2022 at 05:54 PM.
@MikeFig82 Got MAF Cleaner, CRC Brand so good to go there.
I put BAD screw in last, & put it in the middle of intake manifold. If I remember correctly, the "Hat' of the screw broke off.. so getting it out is probably going to be a pain in the butt once I gotta go back in there.
Quick questions, what are the fuel trims & how do I "reset" them.
When you say, "small hose from valve cover breather to intake" is it that little hose with the wire clamp on the intake next to the almost square plastic piece that leads up to the Throttle Body? (see attached picture)
@MikeFig82 Got MAF Cleaner, CRC Brand so good to go there.
I put BAD screw in last, & put it in the middle of intake manifold. If I remember correctly, the "Hat' of the screw broke off.. so getting it out is probably going to be a pain in the butt once I gotta go back in there.
Quick questions, what are the fuel trims & how do I "reset" them.
When you say, "small hose from valve cover breather to intake" is it that little hose with the wire clamp on the intake next to the almost square plastic piece that leads up to the Throttle Body? (see attached picture)
Yes correct that is the breather hose necxt to the resonator on the intake pipe.
Alrighty @MikeFig82 ,
So, these are the steps I took.
(Sorry in advance that pictures are soooo big)
- Disconnected Battery & Removed Intake Hose + small hose next to resonator + MAF
- Cleaned MAF/TB w/ CRC MAF Cleaner (used microfiber to wipe down TB)
- Tightened Clamps on intake hose, Snug but not overly tight.
- Tightened clamps on every hose I could reach underneath intake hose (circled in red)
- Traced a hose directly underneath intake/TB towards body or cockpit of car, forgot to snap a pic of that area back there, but all looked okay..
- Reset ECU via fuse pull method, left fuses unplugged for 10 minutes before putting back in.
- Reconnected Battery
- Started car after 20 minutes & it started on first try.. Think I read something one of those links above saying it SHOULDNT start on first try but rather on the second..
so unsure if reset ECU correctly?
- Test drive seemed to have improved response from throttle.. no sluggish lag & less of that sulfur smell when I WOT'D on the highway.. Test drove for about 10 miles.
- Waiting on friend to get off work so I can go borrow his OBD2 Scanner to try and clear codes and see which ones come back.
- Still waiting on OEM Gas Cap to come in, ordered from Bell Lexus North Scottsdale Website then will try to clear codes again.
- Located OCV's Thank You, (Pics below) Protective Tubing on MAF Was cracked and slightly exposed wires, applied more electrical tape Throttle Body (After Pic) it was pretty black & gunked up, cleaned both sides as best as possible. Bottom Intake Clamp Small hose (Before removing & tightening) Small Hose on intake (after putting it back & tightening) Small Hose on Intake (After Install/Tightening) Underside of Air Filter Cover, think someone mentioned a way to clean this? Air Filter After Approx. 6000 Mi OCV OCV's
@2013FSport How would you recommend fixing this gap? I've pushed and messed with that wire clamp as best as I could, thats how it sits... Should I just try and order a new one? or maybe I clean it and buy a new clamp? to see if it tightens and closes the gap better?
I no longer have code P0441 after cleaning all of the above^ so, just hoping gas cap fixes the other code.
@2013FSport How would you recommend fixing this gap? I've pushed and messed with that wire clamp as best as I could, thats how it sits... Should I just try and order a new one? or maybe I clean it and buy a new clamp? to see if it tightens and closes the gap better?
I no longer have code P0441 after cleaning all of the above^ so, just hoping gas cap fixes the other code.
Does the nipple pull out of the accordion hose? Maybe it's just me and the angle?
The problem is these vac lines get stiff too quickly, and never seal correctly once removed.
I'd source a replacement. For now you can adjust untill there is completely zero gap around the front edge of the fitting. Undo the clamps on both fitting. From valve cover, and intake hose. The hose will self adjust then just re clamp to hold. You may have to slightly have to rotate one end at a time.
View of plastic fitting inner side:
Last edited by MikeFig82; Apr 21, 2022 at 08:07 AM.
@2013FSport How would you recommend fixing this gap? I've pushed and messed with that wire clamp as best as I could, thats how it sits... Should I just try and order a new one? or maybe I clean it and buy a new clamp? to see if it tightens and closes the gap better?
I no longer have code P0441 after cleaning all of the above^ so, just hoping gas cap fixes the other code.
Take the breather hose out and take a picture. I don't think that gap between the rubber hose and intake tube will cause a leak. It's the way that tube was fabricated. The wire clamp seals it so that gap can be ignored. If you really want to make sure, replace the wire clamp with one of those stainless steel hose clamps that you can manually tighten.