Hello my 07 AWD 250 with 136K miles has a problem where when driving at slow speeds between 0-30 mph it has a slight vibration it makes the ride feel bumpy but it’s a vibration, it disappears or it’s not noticeable at high speeds, also worth mentioning that the vibrations get a whole lot worse when making turns to either side at low speed, the whole car shakes very hard and it’s felt especially in the back of the car, again if making turns with some speed it’s not felt as much, also when I let go of the steering wheel and accelerate a bit, the steering wheel wonders off to either side.. someone said wheel alignment or balancing, but has anyone else experienced this before? Couldn’t find in the threads a problem like this one, thank you all for your help!

 

CV joint?
Any knocking noises when turning esp from front?

 

not when actually driving and turning but if I’m holding the brake and just turn the wheel there’s just one click noise when turning to either side

 

Have you looked to see if the CV boots are torn?

Most driveline vibes start above 40 mph. Any chance you do short drives, the tires are old, it's cold ambient temps and these systems go away after driving 30min?

 

Will check out CV boots today, the car is my daily I have remote start on it so I warm it up in the mornings, my drive is about 40 mins and I still feel the vibrations then, sorry if it’s a dumb question but does the rear have CV axles too or just the front? Because the vibration when turning it’s mostly felt in the back but resonates a bit to the front through the chassis I’m thinking of doing a rear diff fluid change as well to see if that changes anything

 

All 4 corners of AWD have CV joints. RWD is the same.

PS - tires do not warm from sitting in the driveway. Does it ever go away after longer drives?

 

front driver cv boot has leaked all grease out, that’s probably a start so I’ll have to get that repaired I also have a bad wheel bearing on that same tire, question I was reading on other parts that is possible to just repair the axle boot? How do I know if I need to replace the whole axle or just the boot? Or is it even possible to just replace the boot? Thanks

 

If you turn it full lock and it clicks/pops, its done. Exposed to gravel and water done. Exposed more than a week, done. Grease gone for 2 weeks, done.

Just replace it. Best bet as the labor will bite you!

 

coming back to this thread for some more guidance… I replaced both front CV axles and the car rides so much better! However, I still have a small shudder vibration like feeling from the rear end when making turns at slow speeds, driving at low speeds like up to 25 mph and accelerating once it’s past 30 mph it’s not really noticeable, it seems to be more noticeable sometimes more than others but it’s always there I checked and mechanic also checked rear axles and they seem good not play or torn boots… any suggestions where else to look as it seems the problem is isolated to the rear of the car, I’m thinking sway bar links or something like that. Thanks for all your help

 

how much did it cost you? Parts and labor?

 

Well a friend did it for me so not sure how much of a good price reference but he charged $220 for labor and I paid $160 for parts, and he also changed a wheel bearing, which is great in my opinion

 

I am currently experiencing the same type of problem with my 2004 RX330 I just replced both front rotors and pads(yesterday 09/03/23) did not help at all. Then I checked for a possible bad wheel bearing nope and all the boots on the cv axles look perfect, no play at all in the front wheels. Could it be the back brakes causing this vibration to be felt in the steering wheel when braking? HELP has anyone else had this issue?

 

it could be the back brakes. Quick way to check, put your hand or fingers on your center console and then try braking, if you feel the center console vibrating to the tune of the shutter feeling you feel when braking and experiencing vibration then yes most likely it is your rear brakes and/or rotors.

 

Sorry Just now seeing this I will give this a test run and see. Thanks

 

The IS has floating rear calipers and often times, those in the rust belt will have the slides (guide pins) rust in place and eat up the pads and rotor.

A quick test is to grab squirt bottle, go for a 10min drive using the brakes as little as possible and spritz the rotor. If one side crackles and steams, the caliper is draging. They should all evaporate at the same rate. The fronts may be faster as they do more work.

Start there. How many miles on it?