New user here (Hi to everyone). My wife has an 2010 IS-250 (RWD) and it appears the fluid has been leaking and burning off the exhaust (hence not seeing it on the ground). Today she called me and the gears were yowling something fierce. I immediately took it to a shop to have the diff topped off until we can figure out next steps. They topped it off but I'm afraid the damage is done. The tech indicated there was zero fluid. So I drove it home and parked it .. The noise seems worse (it was filled with 75w90 GL5) under accel and decel. This just sucks.

SO, I can order a new diff but has anyone actually done the procedure. I've logged into TIS online and took a quick look at the steps but I find it's always best to consult with the experts (you guys) to see if you can provide any quick tips & tricks. I replaced both axles a couple of years ago so I've got that process pretty much covered.

Many MANY thanks in advance.

 

You can probably get answers here:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...automatic.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-15-is250.html

 

The swap can be done with the car backed onto ramps. Take all the fasteners out, let it hang, get your hips under it and raise one side while prying the other side's stub shaft out. I'd recommend going to one of the Torsen options--be it the 4.1:1 Y38 or 4.3:1 Y58--while you're there.

 

The 3IS method, is the hard way (#2). Don't do it that way!

 

Thanks to all of you for replying. I seriously appreciate it. This is definitely a solo job that'll be done on jack stands in my garage. The amount the Lexus dealership wants it's pretty high but I was able to source a new one for a pretty good price. Just going to tear down and drop the wounded diff (very helpful knowing the drop is pretty straight forward) and wait for the replacement to arrive.. I'll use a jack to raise and lower it into position.

Question:
[1] TIS indicates the exhaust (front/tail) should be dropped as well as the d-shaft w/center bearing. I slid up under the car and it looks as if the d-shaft is attached using 4 bolts. Thoughts on having to do this or just unbolt the (3) 12mm hex and (2) rear upper and (2) lower bolts and lower it. Looks as if the stabilizer bar needs removal for clearance to the 12mm.

@Ultra4 Stub shaft ? Sounds like d-shaft and stub are the same thing here. So separation can be a pain requiring me to use a pry bar. Do I need to be gentle or just break it loose and not worry over damaging anything other than dropping the diff on the floor (not that it would matter). I assume re-assembly is just raising it into place and getting it temp. bolted into place (uppers mounts). Lining up the stub shaft (d-shaft) and securing it with 4 bolts.

Thanks again to everyone .. Anyone interested in pics and details on the R&R process ? Always looking to help others here and I'm a pretty visual person to the process. LMK ...

 

I took this pic after spending all day laying there under the spare tire carrier trying to get those two splined shafts (stub shafts) out of the assembly. If you look at the tips of the stub shafts, you'll see a groove right near the tip, that groove has a spring steel wire that retains the shafts into the assembly, that's what you'll be fighting.

The driveshaft coming from the transmission is held on by 4 bolts, then you have the 2 outrigger bolts and the three into the diff cover. After the fasteners are out, you'll notice a stamped steel bar bolted to either side of the subframe that's keeping you from letting the diff hang, so take those four 10mm bolts out and remove the braces. When you've got that done and the diff is hanging, you'll need to lift one side of the diff up and toward one wheel while prying the splined shaft out of the other side. Again, you gotta defeat that spring wire retainer, so multiple prybars and patience are key. Don't pry against the obviously too thin sheet metal on the stub shafts.

 

This helped me tremendously, much appreciated ... I'll make sure to take some photos to add to this thread.

 

OP, notice the angle of the suspension arms. On ramps those arms are nearly flat. If you let the suspension hang, you lose precious and limited motion when popping the axle free as it will want to go right back in. The only complication is during the install, you rotate the pinion to allow the axle splines to align as the wheels obviously are not gonna turn.

As for getting the axles out, they pop out easy if done right. By right I mean pulling straight out. A pry bar on one side does not pop it straight. It kicks it sideways just enough to lock the retaining clip in the diffs side gear.

Use two equal length prybars spaced 180° apart and simultaneously thrust the prybars so the axle pulls straight. Do this while it's bolted in to one side and toss a U shapped chunk of wood or cardboard 1/4" to 3/8" thick between the axle and the diff so it can't go back in. Lower the housing. Turn the housing and pull the axle. Turn the housing straight to align the other axle and pop it free. Bam. Done.

Reverse to install. Place the trans in neutral so when it comes time to align the drive shaft to the pinion, you can rotate it.

Don't forget your Harbour Freight fluid pump. It like $8. It'll save your life.

 

Had some free time yesterday and decided to also do brakes on all 4 corners. Found myself removing the rear stabilizer bar and exhaust system. The new diff will arrive tomorrow by big brown so I'll keep this thread updated. Taking lots of photos and will also try to see if I can grab the details off TIS with torque specs.

I can't for the life of me determine how in the hell these seals leaked. Perhaps if I get a close enough photo someone who is more knowledgeable can tell me. I'll remove the shafts and take some pics. Might also be easier to see why when I drop it (if I have time today).

 

You might just call and see who has axles. You'd be one nut away from replacing them.

Side Diff Seals for 350/ISC
90311-47018 Right
90311-47019 Left
90311-47015 these interchange side to side.

Keep in mind the r&r guys in the yard may not be so kind to the seals when ripping the axle out. And be sure to grease the seals and axles when installing.

 

So your thinking that I should replace the axles while I'm in it ? These axles are pretty damn new (2-3 years). New seals are supposed to be installed on the new diff (I was told they would). I need to run to the parts store to see if I can get my hands on a 12p wrench. The 4 nuts holding the drive shaft to the diff are difficult to access with anything other (don't want to use a swivel). Kind of worried about rounding these guys off with a 6p. Best practice here to remove them (easily) ?

As always, many thanks ...

 

OK so the axles were replaced. That could explain the failure if the seals were dry during install. Only hinting at new parts if the sealing area is damaged on your axles. You might suffer the same fate if you reuse them. Make sure there is no Grove where the seal rides.

Just noticed yours is a 250. Those PN's in prior post are no good.

Won't a box wrench slide in there? Hold it square and break it free with a hammer.

 

Yes, axles were replaced not long ago and admittedly, I didn't grease the diff seals when I originally installed them. SO I/we could have a closer look, I decided to pull the axles (as you said, just 1 nut away from pulling them) and take some close up photos for others to see. I'm also looking to see if anything visibly looks off/damaged or otherwise. I have an extra set of nuts so this wasn't a problem.

Had no issues removing the drive shaft to diff bolts using a pair of 14m (12 point) wrenches. Came right off. Today I'm definitely dropping the diff. Just need a friend to come over to help get a jack underneath and help lower it. I'll take some close up photos of the seals once its out.

Any recommendations on what type of grease to use. I have a tube of CV axle grease, will that work or perhaps something else is better.


Drivers side axle (pic 1)

Drivers side axle (pic 2)

Passenger side (pic 1)

Passenger side (pic 2)

 

Are those the old axles or did you tear the suspension apart on both sides?
The downside is now the car has to be sitting on the tires before those bolts get tightened or the rubber bushings get damaged.

Just make sure there is no groove where the seal rides and you should be good.

PS that diff only weighs like 50 60 pounds. It's pretty easy to manage.
350 so yours is even smaller and lighter...

 

Those were the new axles installed 2 years ago. Since I'm on jack stands I decided to tear down both sides for removal (No biggie). I'm about to drop the old diff so hopefully this will give us some answers as to what exactly happened. I have a new set of seals (just in case the new one doesn't have any) to compare to the old ones so pics coming soon.