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IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Broken high performance fuel pump?

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Old May 7, 2021 | 09:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by MikeFig82
Reading the thread over again. Were you watching the coolant temp prior to the reservoir cap popping off? The coolant had to be under tremendous pressure to do that. Do you think the car may of been low on coolant?
It certainly sounds like it. That said, we know nothing of the conditions and these have cores that dump enough BTU's for DD, not racing.

It makes me wonder if the block is ok?
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Old May 7, 2021 | 10:03 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 2013FSport
It certainly sounds like it. That said, we know nothing of the conditions and these have cores that dump enough BTU's for DD, not racing.

It makes me wonder if the block is ok?
@Gville350 thanks for the input, will let the shop know to check it out

@2013FSport @MikeFig82 I have done countless track days with this car (it is 12 years old now), and no new modification to the car. I saw the the temperature was normal. the fluid level when it popped was above the full line. But I did push the car hard on the track. Oil level was fine too.
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Old May 7, 2021 | 05:37 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MikeFig82
One last mention before I retire for the night. You mentioned coolant splashing. I would say if you can remove the injector driver and clean the contacts. Reaseat them properly and give it a try. I'd probably use CRC maf cleaner to be safe. Let the contacts dry as well.

Well first remove the snorkel on the aibox. The driver box is behind it. Remove radiator cowel to access the 10mm bolt. See pics of of driver location. Like I mentioned before those codes are driver related. Coolant may of made its way on the connections. Just throwing stuff out there for now.

Just called the shop again, they say the computer is might be the cause. So I told them that the part on the picture above might be wet, because I also lost battery charge. I checked my alternator current, it is showing 13.87 ( so it is charging), for some reason my battery was low (11.6v) before I took it to the shop
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Old May 7, 2021 | 09:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by neomacz
Just called the shop again, they say the computer is might be the cause. So I told them that the part on the picture above might be wet, because I also lost battery charge. I checked my alternator current, it is showing 13.87 ( so it is charging), for some reason my battery was low (11.6v) before I took it to the shop
Those two things don't align. You're charging system may be compromised.

Batteries/systems that are weak show low voltage and low voltage is OK at some level as long as it has sufficient current to sustain cell voltage. Something like 12.75. That said, most systems when running won't drop under 13.4vdc.

Last edited by 2013FSport; May 10, 2021 at 07:42 PM.
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Old May 10, 2021 | 04:37 PM
  #20  
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Update: Finally my car is back alive. the issue was with the connection from the computer unit. I have really bad luck, the tow cost was almost $600 and the repair was $700. Since somebody mentioned that high pressure fuel pump rarely broken and super expensive. I asked the shop to give me the original part, just in case I need it in the future. Is there a simple way to test it without connecting to the car?

Last edited by neomacz; May 10, 2021 at 06:20 PM.
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Old May 10, 2021 | 05:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by neomacz
Update: Finally my car is back alive. the issue was with the connection from the computer unit. I have really bad luck, the tow cost was almost $600 and the repair was $700. Since somebody mentioned that high fuel pressure rarely broken and super expensive. I asked the shop to give me the original part, just in case I need it in the future. Is there a simple way to test it without connecting to the car?
TIS does not have testing methods for the injection driver (I assume that's what was replaced). I feel your pain. After installing a SC on my RC350 I was intermittently having the same CEL, along with DI injector CELs. It took me months to find the root cause (being it was intermittent, I'm still awaiting its return). I replaced the driver injector, but no fix. I ended up replacing the connector and pins from the ECU at the driver. My theory is I had some loose pins, which was exacerbated when I disconnected the injection driver to check compression pre-SC.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 01:42 AM
  #22  
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I just read through your thread and might have a similar problem. Would you be kind enough to share the part number of the computer in question or a photo.

Thank you.

Originally Posted by neomacz;[url=tel:11049492
11049492[/url]]Update: Finally my car is back alive. the issue was with the connection from the computer unit. I have really bad luck, the tow cost was almost $600 and the repair was $700. Since somebody mentioned that high pressure fuel pump rarely broken and super expensive. I asked the shop to give me the original part, just in case I need it in the future. Is there a simple way to test it without connecting to the car?
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