New member here...hoping you can help. While driving my 2007 IS350 on the highway this morning at approximately 80MPH, I lost power steering and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Radio went out, time went dim, then dash flashed and went completely black. I was able to pull off of the road and the car continued to run but had no power to accelerate. I turned the car off and it would no longer turn on. Flashers worked only. Brake pedal stiff. No response when trying to turn car back on. After about 30 minutes, I tried again and the dash came on but only a ticking sound. Had car towed home. Hooked up to battery charger for a few hours and it started with hesitation. Seems to be fine now. Error code is camshaft position sensor. Should I trust it? Alternator and battery were replaced 2 years ago... Also intermittently over the last couple of months, power steering would not engage when the car starts but quickly resolved within 30-40 seconds...I just thought it was strange and didn't really think anything of it. What could this be?

 

If you can take the car to an autoparts store. Get the battery and alternator checked out.

 

Thanks. I actually think its the alternator. I went back out to start the car about an hour later, started fine but battery light began to flash.

 

Almost guarantee it is the alternator. about the exact same thing happened to me, and as soon as I jump the car it started back up. I bought a battery with 700 cold cranking amps a couple months back and the bad alternator took it down to about 26. The shop said it was the lowest they ever recorded lol. It won't be cheap most likely and don't go with a cheap alternator. I have heard from many that the 2nd gens dont do good with cheap aftermarket alternators so I would recommend going to a dealership or Lexus mechanic and getting a warranty. I got mine done for around 800 with a 3 year 36k warranty.

 

What kind of Alternator did you install? Typically it would be a Denso Re-manufactured (certified and tested and warranted) unit is what you can buy from a typical Auto store (Advance Auto or Oreilly's).

 

As many threads as there are for failing alternators, that should be a BIG clue.

But yeah, I agree that I'd replace that ALT again...and possibly even the battery.

 

not entirely sure what alternator they used at the shop but I should have it on the service record somewhere. The part was OE and around $340 I believe

 

Sound like the alternator is the weak point on 2is.
Not sure if it's a good idea to keep a spare one in the garage in case I need to replace it myself.
I just replaced the OEM battery and my alternator is working fine.

 

Any Auto store can do a simple diagnosis of a failing or soon to fail alternator. It is rarely the battery that has issue. Batteries fail due to age (but these last at least 4 years), however if they are discharged and die early, it must be the alternator.

 

Just to make sure check out your camshaft positioning sensor wires to make sure they're not cracked or broken and drawing power out of the car somewhere. 2 years for a alternator to die seems kinda soon but i guess it also depends on the hours/miles put on it. For most of my parts i use denso but i currently have a 250amp alternator from e bay in my car and it has been a year and a half still running strong.

 

These alternators have like 12 rectifier diodes in them which is 2X more than many. Sadly all its takes is one to go bad and the downhill spiral begins. FWIW - bad diodes often induce that high pitch whine heard and is accompanied by increased heat and subsequent burning smell. That said, more often than not it is the voltage regulator that dies which strains other components when the output goes to 15 volts and keeps climbing!

IME, shock from say jumping another dead vehicle or letting the battery discharge too low whereby the alternator chugs out maximum current has historically been the killer of alts, but not these. No, they just puke of there own free will!