Lowered IS350 Wheel Alignment
Hey all! 2 weeks ago I lowered my car on BC BR Coilovers and I have to say they are fantastic. Ride quality improved over my factory F-Sport suspension and it handles great.
Yesterday I went and got a wheel alignment and tried to get the best setup to maximize my treadwear with my current height and this is what I ended up with: https://imgur.com/a/w80zgn6
This is my current height setup: https://imgur.com/a/2wYAbyl
What I want to ask is; will my tires be somewhat okay with these specs? Through standard daily driving roughly what amount of miles/kms could I expect? I know I'm sacrificing a lot of longetivity with this height, but if they're going to chew through to nothing within months then I'd like to know.
Thanks a lot! =)
Yesterday I went and got a wheel alignment and tried to get the best setup to maximize my treadwear with my current height and this is what I ended up with: https://imgur.com/a/w80zgn6
This is my current height setup: https://imgur.com/a/2wYAbyl
What I want to ask is; will my tires be somewhat okay with these specs? Through standard daily driving roughly what amount of miles/kms could I expect? I know I'm sacrificing a lot of longetivity with this height, but if they're going to chew through to nothing within months then I'd like to know.
Thanks a lot! =)
It seems only the first link pulls up. Negative camber and some toe-in is a good trade off and will offset the wear more than a zero toe.
That said his report shows both degrees and mm which is misleading. Adding to that, the rear toe is excess but meets spec.
If you find the rear end dancing / shooting from side to side when traction is lost on one side it is because the rear is toed in excessively.
Big tip for the day. Grab some calipers and measure your tread depth in 3 places across each tire. The amount of toe in the front has could be just fine. RUN IT for 1000 miles or so and measure it again.
Where mistakes are made is not watching the wear. If having the front toed in wears the outsides, you need to toe it out closer to zero. If it still wears the insides, you might to toe it in more and increase the tire pressure by a couple psi.
Watch it and see what it does. You have a baseline if you measure the depth now.
That said his report shows both degrees and mm which is misleading. Adding to that, the rear toe is excess but meets spec.
If you find the rear end dancing / shooting from side to side when traction is lost on one side it is because the rear is toed in excessively.
Big tip for the day. Grab some calipers and measure your tread depth in 3 places across each tire. The amount of toe in the front has could be just fine. RUN IT for 1000 miles or so and measure it again.
Where mistakes are made is not watching the wear. If having the front toed in wears the outsides, you need to toe it out closer to zero. If it still wears the insides, you might to toe it in more and increase the tire pressure by a couple psi.
Watch it and see what it does. You have a baseline if you measure the depth now.
wrong toe is what will kill tires more than the camber, though I found that these cars have more negative camber than I would like.
of course this is the nature of the wishbone suspension, and why the car handles so beautifully!
the numbers seem good to me, and to emphasize what Gville350 stated, the lower control arm bushings are too soft on these cars which contribute to poor tire life.
I upgraded to ISF bushings myself, knowing that the RR racing units are too stiff (good for track use however).
more:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...a-non-isf.html
of course this is the nature of the wishbone suspension, and why the car handles so beautifully!
the numbers seem good to me, and to emphasize what Gville350 stated, the lower control arm bushings are too soft on these cars which contribute to poor tire life.
I upgraded to ISF bushings myself, knowing that the RR racing units are too stiff (good for track use however).
more:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...a-non-isf.html
wrong toe is what will kill tires more than the camber, though I found that these cars have more negative camber than I would like.
of course this is the nature of the wishbone suspension, and why the car handles so beautifully!
the numbers seem good to me, and to emphasize what Gville350 stated, the lower control arm bushings are too soft on these cars which contribute to poor tire life.
I upgraded to ISF bushings myself, knowing that the RR racing units are too stiff (good for track use however).
more:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...a-non-isf.html
of course this is the nature of the wishbone suspension, and why the car handles so beautifully!
the numbers seem good to me, and to emphasize what Gville350 stated, the lower control arm bushings are too soft on these cars which contribute to poor tire life.
I upgraded to ISF bushings myself, knowing that the RR racing units are too stiff (good for track use however).
more:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...a-non-isf.html
We did the same thing. Right after buying I found the RC-F PN bolts in too and is firmer than IS-F.
RC-F PN and color codes are here.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...0-20-20-a.html
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ohiois350
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
18
Nov 15, 2010 09:27 AM










