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Hello everyone! So I bought a flooded IS. Kind of excited to drive it, see how it drives compared to my A4 that I sold bc I couldn’t stand the fact that it burned oil, it was a total turn off. So anyways, had my tranny and engine replaced in the flood car. Car seems to be ok , rpm is a bit high 2k at idle, probably have to do a throttle body relearn or will try the original throttle body that was on the car instead the one with the donor engine. Any ideas in that - please chime in
also I’ve noticed that the driver window switch blinks in like sequential mode, starting with driver side front then pass the rear etc. has anyone seen that before? Kind of seems like it needs to be reset or programmed?!? Towing her home! Had to unbolt the drive shaft has n order to tow Old engine out
The sequential flashing is for the automatic windows whenever the battery is disconnected etc.All you have to do is roll down each window fully and roll it up fully from end to end, even if it looks closed make sure it goes all the way up and down until it stops at each position, and then repeat for all windows using their respective switches, passenger for passenger, passenger side rear for passenger side rear etc. If you did it correctly you should be able to control all windows from the driver side panel.
For my 2010 I don't have to setup the master window switch after a battery disconnect.
For the high idle at 2k rpm it will settle down after about 10 minutes of stationary idle. If it's still high after that look for a vacuum leak somewhere. Then again it would probably be a hunting idle.
It has to idle that long? ok well def with try that.
thanks
Yeah at least mine does that after a battery disconnect. It's around 5 minutes. The idle will start to come down. 10 or so minutes the idle will stabilize to around 700-800 rmps. Remember at the this time for the idle relearn don't touch the gas pedal. Turn it off a few minutes then go drive a few miles maybe.
Yeah at least mine does that after a battery disconnect. It's around 5 minutes. The idle will start to come down. 10 or so minutes the idle will stabilize to around 700-800 rmps. Remember at the this time for the idle relearn don't touch the gas pedal. Turn it off a few minutes then go drive a few miles maybe.
This is great info. I've gotten more questions answered here than at the dealer.
For my 2010 I don't have to setup the master window switch after a battery disconnect.
For the high idle at 2k rpm it will settle down after about 10 minutes of stationary idle. If it's still high after that look for a vacuum leak somewhere. Then again it would probably be a hunting idle.
That's interesting, you sure you don't have anything supplying any power to the car? Both my 13 RX and 08 IS need to redo the window switches and sunroofs when the battery is disconnected.
Since we're not in the cold months yet, the car should be at proper idling temp within 1-3 minutes. (but again, this is really temperature dependent and I'm in hot southern Louisiana, so it's a bit different for me). Since you just had the battery disconnected, drive the car for a while and see if goes down to normal (600-700ish), usually it needs to relearn after a battery disconnect.
That's interesting, you sure you don't have anything supplying any power to the car? Both my 13 RX and 08 IS need to redo the window switches and sunroofs when the battery is disconnected.
Since we're not in the cold months yet, the car should be at proper idling temp within 1-3 minutes. (but again, this is really temperature dependent and I'm in hot southern Louisiana, so it's a bit different for me). Since you just had the battery disconnected, drive the car for a while and see if goes down to normal (600-700ish), usually it needs to relearn after a battery disconnect.
Yep I do it on a cold engine takes about 5 minutes till I see the needle start to drop. Then starts to stabilize around 8-10 minutes. I'm in southern Texas heat climate as well. Sometimes I don't even mess with my window switches at all. Never seemed to have a problem with the windows not working. I never reset by the fuse method, as it doesn't erase the learned LTFT's. Only by disconnecting the negative battery terminal seems to work. Unless you do it on techstream maybe.
That's interesting, you sure you don't have anything supplying any power to the car? Both my 13 RX and 08 IS need to redo the window switches and sunroofs when the battery is disconnected.
Since we're not in the cold months yet, the car should be at proper idling temp within 1-3 minutes. (but again, this is really temperature dependent and I'm in hot southern Louisiana, so it's a bit different for me). Since you just had the battery disconnected, drive the car for a while and see if goes down to normal (600-700ish), usually it needs to relearn after a battery disconnect.
im in NY and temp yesterday was about 65. I ran the car for about 2 minutes, put it in gear the rmp did drop but i don't recall what it was when it was in reverse.
im in NY and temp yesterday was about 65. I ran the car for about 2 minutes, put it in gear the rmp did drop but i don't recall what it was when it was in reverse.
If you did an idle relearn, and it's still idling high. Something is wrong. I've even done an ECU reset before. Where I didn't let it idle learn before. After a few miles it will still stabilize on it's own. Once the engine reached operating temperature.
Is your temp gauge working? See how fast it goes to around the middle reading. If you have obd II scanner see if the car is in open, or close loop. Maybe an open thermostat, or bad ECT sensor?
If you did an idle relearn, and it's still idling high. Something is wrong. I've even done an ECU reset before. Where I didn't let it idle learn before. After a few miles it will still stabilize on it's own. Once the engine reached operating temperature.
Is your temp gauge working? See how fast it goes to around the middle reading. If you have obd II scanner see if the car is in open, or close loop. Maybe an open thermostat, or bad ECT sensor?
temp gauge working no issues.
I have an obd scanner however not sure how to check if its open or close loop
Yeah im pretty sure i don't have the part. mine is really simple
Try another ecu reset then either battery method, or fuse method. Battery method leave it over 15 minutes disconnected. Ecu maybe the same. If your clock is not messed up when restarting, or takes 2 tries to fire up. You didn't reset nothing long enough. Once you let it start just let it idle no touching the gas pedal. If it doesn't work try cleaning your throttle body. Report back your findings so other members can help diagnosing the problem. The more info the better.
2010 is 250 awd flooded
