So at first I got no traction vsc check system and tire pressure light with codes p0172 and p0175 then my check engine light came on with another code which I forgot but it was for the maf sensor. I bought a can of maf sensor cleaner stuff and cleaned my maf according to the diy somewhete on this website. I disconnected the battery and all that good stuff. When I put everything back together. No lights or anything. Then the next day all the lights came back on except the check engine. And codes p0172 and p0175 came up. Then the check engine light came on again. I havent took it to autozone again yet but I'm assuming the same code for the maf sensor is coming up again along with p0172 and p0175. Plz Help

 

If you checked for vac line leaks. Especially the one in the intake pipe make sure it's hooked up well. If not your probably facing a bad MAF. You can get the OEM DENSO on RockAuto.com for cheap.

Is the car surging, or any stalling issues?

 

No the cars not surgeing or stalling. So I have a t-mobile sync up drive and it tells me the codes sometimes and what they are. So on p0172 and p0175 it says its running to rich and below that it says it's either a bad regulator or leaky injector. But thats not possible because they wouldnt both go out at the same time right? Also I'm not sure if I posted this above but my check engine light shut back off. But still got check system check vsc red triangle and abs and the no traction sign and the tire pressure sign which flashes for awhile everytime I start the car and then stays solid.

 

P.s. the airline into intake pipe is good.

 

Running rich means it's to much gas in the mixture, and not enough air. Hence the MAF is what reads the air coming in.

 

Well it finally started running like **** so now i n33d change my maf

 

does it mater if its ntk denso or oem or some other brand?

 

I'm running a new one from RockAuto.com DENSO= OEM no problems.

Nothing was wrong with my original. I accidentally broke the O-ring grove. I didn't want the rest coming off, and getting injested by the engine.

 

So I put a new sensor maf sensor in. I'm still getting codes of running to rich.... I have an aftermarket k&n air filter and i took it to the dealership the other day they said I had a model in between the maf sensor and the harness that is after market. Im not sure exactly what this is because i bought the car this way.... But they said they unplugged it and plugged the stock 1 back in because that may be whats tricking the computer. So they did that and the codes r still coming back so they told me I might have to drive it a "**** ton" their words for the computer to regonize that its not running rich. But now my car has been dieing when I first start her up. It's happened to me now the only two times I drove it so far but then it starts right back up..
Im waiting on a call back from the dealership so i can try and find out exactly what they unplugged because i dont see anything where there talking about unless its on the driverside of the engine bay wiring harness because i didnt check over there because the maf sensor wires goes into the harness by alternator then all the wire harness goes together. And i just dont see this model their talking about being past that point it dont make since. Well so I'm not sure but I'm thinking and hoping the spark plugs have never been changed becsuse I hear that also could be making it run rich. So I'm about to go out now and pull a spark plug the guy at the dealership told me that the factory stock spark plugs have a white stamp at the very top of them and thats how ill be able to tell if theyve been changed or not. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do? All the garmets and rubbers basicaly look new on the intake and I dont see anywhere extra air could be getting in to b making it run rich. Help plz !!!!!

 

So you're saying that you have just an after market air filter in your stock airbox? If the plugs haven't been changed I'd strart there. You can get the plugs at Adavance Auto parts. They won't be cheap though. Also just pick up a stock air filter too. IMO I feel the stock air filter is adequate to do the job. The torque specs for the plugs are for 18 ft-lbs.

 

No I got the shiny silver tube with a K&N at the end of it. And i took a spark plug out today because at the dealership they told me to pull a spark plug and see if it has a white stamp at the very top if it does then there stock and i need to change them if they dont he said they probably have been changed recently.... I have 118000 miles and only bought the car a few thousand miles ago. When i pulled the plug it didnt look new but it didnt have no stamp so i took it to orileys and gave them my vin and plate # and they pulles 2 different spark plugs out the back 1 was half inch or so bigger and the other was about 1/4 to 1/8 inch shorter. None of these lights were on when i bought the car.... Also jw it doesnt matter that after resetting the ECU it throws all the lights instantly except the check engine. Including a flashing then solid tire pressure light. I feel like that is significant???? Is it not?

 

Please post some pictures of your intake setup. I found the AEM one which claims to be electronically tunned. Which makes me think you may have this version. Hence the dealer saying there's a module in between the MAF harness.

If the harness module has failed it won't put out the correct signals. I would disconnect the module, and go straight to the OEM harness to MAF. Omitting the module that came with the intake. Assuming you do have the AEM intake.

Found these pics online. Do they match your intake?

 

Yes that looks exactly like mine..... And the dealer said they already unplugged it and hooked up the original but I cant find anything unplugged and directly coming off the maf sensor the wire goes to a little box that says K&N if so then wtf is the dealer talking about unplugging because thats still plugged in..... What ever they unplugged it makes my car die now until its warmed up.

 

Disconnect the harness to the MAF. Then trace the wire to the OEM harness which has the hard plastic loom. Using the stock harness clip connector. Connect the MAF to the OEM harness. What results do you get?

Taking out the module bypass out of the equation.

The codes will still be present until you reset the ECU. My assumption the electronics box is fried from the aftermarket intake.

Another reason is the MAF is so close to the air filter, and the module not working it's really throwing off the MAF values. If you search online the other intakes have the MAF located further up on the intake piping.

 

Ive seen that. So I just talked to the dealership and like I thought they plugged the aftermarket 1 back in because they didnt get any results.... But the idiots forgot to reset the e.c.u. once they disconnected the aftermarket model. So they didnt check anything.... Also when I talked to them on the phone and mentioned the spark plug size difference hes all thats scary and said I should replace them
with the stock ones. Would my car of ran fine and threw no codes for how ever long with the wrong spark plugs? Obviously there compatible and thats probably not my issue right? Idk im about to go do as you suggested and the dealership tried but failed too.