I would change out the plugs too just to be safe. If the nose is longer on some plugs it will run hotter. The OEM Denso's #3473 are cheap on RockAuto.com compared to Auto part stores.

 

All the spark plugs in the car are the same. I'm saying when I went to orileys to buy new spark plugs they didnt have any that were the same size as the ones already in my car.

 

So after unplugging that model now codes p0171 p0174 so now its running to rich.... I kind of expected that but i still dont know what to do next.

 

Ok so after doing more searches I found this thread. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-intake-2.html

In the last couple of posts it mentions that the AEM pipe is way over sized, and uses the module to trick the ECU on the MAF readings. My guess is yours is fried, and even if you plug the stock MAF to the intake. Bypassing the module the ID of the pipe is way to large to compensate. That's why the MAF is not reporting the correct air flow due to the bigger intake pipe. It's under reporting the air flow to the ECU, and so are the O2 sensors giving you a rich condition, they have exceeded the threshold trying to compensate. I would say source a stock intake system, and try for the better. As IMO that's what I conclude. I'm sure some other members might have a different opinions.

 

Now p0101 came back for maf sensor. Which hasnt came up since iave changed my maf sensor..... The maf sensor I bought off of eBay has the denso name on top but not all the other writing so im not sure if its actually oem part.... Before I changed the maf sensor i cleaned it even so it had no build up or anything and the lights went away for the day and came back the next day but not the check engine just check system check vsc no traction abs and tire pressure light blinking then solid. Then eventually the check engine light came back on and it was running to rich still so I put a new maf sensor in..... But now the lights come on automatically after resetting the e.c.u. I dont even have to drive it. All i have to do is start the car.

 

The Denso one is correct. It won't have the same markings as the Toyota ones. So now you are just running the OEM harness to the OEM MAF correct?

 

yes correct.... But the orginal one has denso on it as well...... But yes im going strait from maf sensor to wiring harness..... What exactly is that model called? Im trying to find a new one.... Or is there anyway to test it?

 

You're going to have to email AEM, and ask if they sell it by itself. Maybe ask for it under MAF ECU. How clean is the filter to the intake as of now?

Here's all the information from AEM:

IS250
https://www.aemintakes.com/search/pr...?prod=41-1406C

IS350
https://www.aemintakes.com/search/pr...?prod=41-1402P

 

So I called AEM just to be told they dont sell those intakea anymore and no longer have any components and theres no way to test them supposedly.... Which I dont believe...

 

So I forgot to mention they tried to tell me to but a new intake and all from.... Spectre performance..... If u type in 2006 lexus is350 only one intake comes up.... It looks exactly like the 1 i have but its only 160 130 with employer discount..... Can u lool it up and tell me what u think or if i can ill try and post a link to it in a little my phones about to die.

 

https://www.spectreperformance.com/mobile/appsearch.aspx?type=auto&year=2006&make=LEXUS&model=IS350&engine=3.5L


Here is the intake there trying to tell me to use if that modeul is gone because they dont make them anymore. And they said I cant test to see if the one I have is working or not without some super special tool that you can buy....

 

Honestly I would just source the OEM set, airbox, tube, and scoop that goes to the airbox if you don't have it. That's probably the best for you'll only gain noise instead of performance sucking up hot air.

 

So im trying to look for 1.... So I left that modeul unhooked for a few days anf drove the car so I was driving it with codes for running to lean and thats bad for your car so I plugged it back in and now my chexk engine light shut off and my t-mobile sync up drive which has always picked up the codes almost immideatly even with out the check engine light on is saying that my car has no problems and ive even drove it around alot and still saying no problems..... So what exactly could be making my check sysyem, abs, no traction, and tire pressure light solid then blinking. So what exactly can make those lights come on immideatly even after resetting the ECU I dont have to drive or nothing just start the car..... So with no codes or check engine light what can cause that? If we act like there was no codes to begin with what else can do that?

 

So is there anything plugged into the rotors? That could of come unplugged that would set lights off?

 

ABS sensors one at each wheel.