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Hi all,
I'm doing my brake pad replaced today. I find out I have a sieging sliding pin on both of my rear brake. How could you fix them?
Thank you for your info.
Eric
Back in the day,
I order new sliding kit and replace the old one.
Make sure the rubber seal is fully seat and lube the slide pin well before putting all back together. I use anti-seized lub
Back in the day,
I order new sliding kit and replace the old one.
Make sure the rubber seal is fully seat and lube the slide pin well before putting all back together. I use anti-seized lub
Thanks, for fast replied. I saw other people talking about there a TBS for that recall from Lexus. I wonder if they still fixed that problem for Lexus owner?
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks, for fast replied. I saw other people talking about there a TBS for that recall from Lexus. I wonder if they still fixed that problem for Lexus owner?
Thanks,
Eric
Can you post a picture of your brake calipers and slide pins? You don't have to actually snap a real photo, just find some off the internet. I have a more permanent fix than most people do for this, without having to buy a new rear caliper set from the dealer at 250 bucks per side. (I don't trust rebuilt lexus parts from the aftermarket supply houses that use 17 year old mexicans for labor)
Just remember, you should replace your brake fluid when you do this fix as well. It's cheap, and I don't trust that some condensation hasn't gotten into your lines at the caliper from the build up of heat your brake situation has caused. (your front calipers are doing more work, plus the rears are probably dragging every day causing more heat)
Here some photos of my refurb this weekend. Rattle can paint was peeling after 10 years, I redid with PPG basecoat/clearcoat in 212 Obsidian. I keep up with my slide pin by inspecting and lubing it everytime I take wheels off.
As far as rebuilt goes, there's nothing about Lexus brakes that makes it any different than any other car. So for $45 each for re-manufactured caliper, you can't beat that. Trying to rebuild yourself using new seals is not worth the cost of OEM seals and labor/effort. Trying to DIY that will probably screw something up, trust me, I've done that with Honda's for a long time.
Can you post a picture of your brake calipers and slide pins? You don't have to actually snap a real photo, just find some off the internet. I have a more permanent fix than most people do for this, without having to buy a new rear caliper set from the dealer at 250 bucks per side. (I don't trust rebuilt lexus parts from the aftermarket supply houses that use 17 year old mexicans for labor)
Just remember, you should replace your brake fluid when you do this fix as well. It's cheap, and I don't trust that some condensation hasn't gotten into your lines at the caliper from the build up of heat your brake situation has caused. (your front calipers are doing more work, plus the rears are probably dragging every day causing more heat)
I am going to buy the rebuild from Kragen, $65.00 ea. After I research about this problem, I know I have to replace them. I tried to hammer them, but they're moving a bit. I bought my car from an old lady, she did drive much for 11 years only 56K miles. I check all her dealer's services, had never replace rear brake. They're original brake caliper. I think she park the car for a while. Yes, i'll replace brake fluid also. Thank you for fast replied.
Eric
I am going to buy the rebuild from Kragen, $65.00 ea. After I research about this problem, I know I have to replace them. I tried to hammer them, but they're moving a bit. I bought my car from an old lady, she did drive much for 11 years only 56K miles. I check all her dealer's services, had never replace rear brake. They're original brake caliper. I think she park the car for a while. Yes, i'll replace brake fluid also. Thank you for fast replied.
Eric
the design of the old boot caused moisture to settle in the slide pin cavity. The TISB replaced the boot. The seizures of slide bolts and pins have been common to calipers for a long time. When I worked on Honda’s they had same issues. Just gotta inspect and lube with a good anti seize compound.
the design of the old boot caused moisture to settle in the slide pin cavity. The TISB replaced the boot. The seizures of slide bolts and pins have been common to calipers for a long time. When I worked on Honda’s they had same issues. Just gotta inspect and lube with a good anti seize compound.
Sil-Glyde lubricant works well for this application.
If you're going to spring for the refurb'd caliper, I'd consider giving it a good coat of paint. Most of them don't have an anti-rust coat applied and will end up rusting within a few weeks/months (when I replaced one of my rears, it started rusting after 5 weeks), while those that have the coating will charge a premium ($20-30ish) for it.
If you're going to spring for the refurb'd caliper, I'd consider giving it a good coat of paint. Most of them don't have an anti-rust coat applied and will end up rusting within a few weeks/months (when I replaced one of my rears, it started rusting after 5 weeks), while those that have the coating will charge a premium ($20-30ish) for it.
I never have any good luck with refurbish calipers in the past even two rears one i have them on now, first problem is they are rust after couple rains and the pistons got stuck after one year, i just order the new OEM from myLparts with discount code about $180 versus $67 from autoparts store, but i know at least the OEM would last me another ten years and rust free calipers
05-20-18, 08:00 AM
06 IS350 Rear Brake Problem.
